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throttle body coolant bypass

sno*jet

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Anyone bypass the TBs and just hook coolant lines together?
Heres an old thread, i dont think sled_guy is familiar with greasy cat motors that spit tons of oil back into the intake tho. And what happened to racinstation? https://www.snowest.com/forum/threads/throttle-body-coolant-line.288678/
I have an aftermarket hood with tight sealed snorkel intake and filter, snow does not get into engine bay like stock either. Main benefit would be next time i take TBs out i wont have coolant all over my shop floor, and have to replace it.
 

sno*jet

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My TBs have been out for a week, was in there cleaning, got tired of the drips so just sent it.
waiting on the mainway solutions bellcrank bushings.
 

sno*jet

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how so? thanks for the response

simplicity would be main reason. And racinstation said they run better?
Im not ripping 90mph in -10 below, so wondering if its really needed, or just carried over from their flatland models.
 

Teth-Air

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how so? thanks for the response

simplicity would be main reason. And racinstation said they run better?
Im not ripping 90mph in -10 below, so wondering if its really needed, or just carried over from their flatland models.
I agree in theory cold fuel would help keep the motor and intake air cooler which can make it run better but the question is does the ECM adjust adequately for changing intake temperatures? With coolant lines running through I expect the intake air to be more consistant. Really the idea of the coolant is likely more to do with avoiding ice formation in the throttle body. Humid air above the freezing point can easily form ice when the pressure drops as it increases velocity in the intake. It does not need to ingest snow to form ice.
 

sno*jet

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Right, I understand that. good pont on humid air too. My thinking is that they are getting a lot of radiant heat off the motor in mountain riding conditions, which fast trail riders do not get due to higher air flow through all of the open hood vents and speed.
My parts are still not here so im also just beating this one until I convince myself to try it. If parts were here today id probably slap it back together how factory does and forget about it. Still not convinced one way or other for now. Its a bitch to pull these TBs, one less step would be nice next time. the coolant lines are the trickiest part of the job, they dont have hardly any slack.
 

boondocker97

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My 900 is due for reeds. I already have half the sled apart and still dreading that last step of pulling the throttle bodies.
 

sno*jet

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^what kinda mileage you replace reeds at? Im also doing that. internet scared me into it, almost 3,000 miles and reeds looked fine. I consider it perfect timing though, i dont wanna send fiberglass bits thru the motor.
I was thinking if i were just doing reeds, might be possible to get at them with TBs still hooked up for the most part? not sure tho
 

boondocker97

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The 900s are hard on them. I waited too long the first time at about 1750 miles they were chipping and one delaminated, folded over, and damaged the cage. It's got about 1100 miles on the current set and I have the sled apart for other reasons so I figured it's a good time. I've heard from others 12-1500 miles on these.
 

Teth-Air

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The 900s are hard on them. I waited too long the first time at about 1750 miles they were chipping and one delaminated, folded over, and damaged the cage. It's got about 1100 miles on the current set and I have the sled apart for other reasons so I figured it's a good time. I've heard from others 12-1500 miles on these.
Do you over-rev your 9R like many do? I wonder if limiting to 8200 would make them last as long as a 850 NA?
 

boondocker97

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Do you over-rev your 9R like many do? I wonder if limiting to 8200 would make them last as long as a 850 NA?
I do not. 8100-8200 is where it makes peak power and I try to keep it in that sweet spot. Occasionally it will hit 83-8400 playing at lower elevation before we make it up top, but I let out of it then. If I get over 8400 at 7000' elevation I'll get a det code on pump gas.

Note this is a Bikeman 900 kit so there's a little more going on with it than a stocker.
 

sno*jet

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Plus hes is talking about a suzuki base motor I believe Teth-air, not a polaris.
Hey boondocker, any tips removing the bellcrank? looks like im drilling rivets :( Oh well, i think the bronze bushings will be worth it.
 

boondocker97

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Nope, you have to take the rivets out and get the support plate out of the way in the bulkhead to get the bell crank out. Where did you find bronze bushings? Or are you getting them made for it? This is also on my list of pre-season maintenance items.
 

Old & slow

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My TBs have been out for a week, was in there cleaning, got tired of the drips so just sent it.
waiting on the mainway solutions bellcrank bushings.
I put the Mainway bell crank bushings in my 20 along with Canada sled parts post bushings and what a difference.
 

sno*jet

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^yeah, kinda a b*tch, but now it appears all the slack through the steering is eliminated with those two items. Cat should have done this from factory. Def worthwhile if youve already taken the pesky TBs out for something. Helps to have sled up on a lift, not a good shop floor job.
 

Old & slow

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I found the bellcrank to have mostly up and down movement. Eventually you will get side to side but it would take a few miles. If you wanted to shim the up and down part you could do that with out drilling rivets and removing the B/C still a bitchy job but doable. IMHO the mainway bushings are the way to go or make your own.
 
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