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Adding oil to gas tank

D
I'll play...

Last year I started adding 1/2 oz Redline Synthetic to my fuel tank. I noticed a DROP in operating temps of about 8-10 deg on average. The added oil is not enough volume to effectively lean out the system but the added lubrication is enough to reduce ring friction. That was the only change I'd made. Don't believe it? Then why do the dealers insist on running NON synthetic in the tank for break-in? I'll tell you - because the higher friction of standard Polaris Blue oil creates more friction and the rings break in faster. Lower friction = less heat build. I'm not imagining it - there is physical science to back it up!

Have FUN!

G "oil in tank" MAN

As I stated in my post "It was stated adding a little oil to your tank would not hurt and I agree. To much oil will cause problems." on to the rest of the cut and pasted article, I just posted it as it was written. I never said I agreed with it 100% only that I felt that TO MUCH OIL would lean out the fuel air mixture. I add extra oil to every motor I rebuild. As Polaris adds extra oil for the first tank of every new sled. Just so we are very clear.....a little is good and a lot just might not be as good.
Crap...I said I wasn't going to post on this subject again. :)
 
F
Aug 8, 2013
4
4
3
Wisconsin
I'll play...

Last year I started adding 1/2 oz Redline Synthetic to my fuel tank. I noticed a DROP in operating temps of about 5-8 deg on average. The added oil is not enough volume to effectively lean out the system but the added lubrication is enough to reduce ring friction. That was the only change I'd made. Don't believe it? Then why do the dealers insist on running NON synthetic in the tank for break-in? I'll tell you - because the higher friction of standard Polaris Blue oil creates more friction and the rings break in faster. Lower friction = less heat build. I'm not imagining it - there is physical science to back it up!

Have FUN! G "oil in tank" MAN
Excellent Spot On post as usual!!!
When I asked a Polaris engineer friend in 2009 why my 2009 600 CFI-2+2 Switchback had 4 injectors & not 2 injectors like the 2009 600 CFI-2 Shift or his proto type 600 CFI-2 sled he said proven reliability of CFI 2+2... But also said that Polaris was testing a smaller number of 600cc engines in the 2009 600 Shift to confirm that they had corrected a small number of piston scuffing issues on intake side of pistons on proto type 600 CFI-2 engines... He sent me 2 new special coated CFI-2 600 pistons as the compression on my light mod 2009 600 SB had 20 psi lower compression then his proto type 600 CFI-2 test sled when we tested both sleds with my compression gauge...

This Polaris engineer approved of me adding 1 oz of Red Line 2 Stroke "RACE" oil per gallon of gas to my 2009 light mod 600 CFI 2+2… This extra oil did not lean out my 600 CFI 2+2 injected engine by more then 1%…
But this 1 oz extra oil per gallon (128 oz) of gas, the extra128:1 fuel to oil ratio did leaned out my old carbureted heavy 800 Poo by approx. 1%...
==================
SLP posted, the HCS IQ from area: We (SLP) would recommend that you premix 1 ½ ounces of oil per gallon of fuel…..
What oil do you recommend that I run in my sled?
Engines that are high horsepower verses cubic centimeter require higher quality oil to support the additional stress on engine parts. This is especially true on EFI engines that run cleaner with an increase in exhaust temperature since fueling is typically leaner when compared to carbureted models. Lower quality oils will tend to run away from heat as well as not having the film strength to support the horsepower range.
The 800 CFI engine is very sensitive to oil quality. We recommend running Redline Two Stroke Racing Oil (it has both a snowmobile and a motorcycle pictured on the jug). We have found this oil to be far superior to any other oil that we have tested to date. It has great film strength and lubricity properties and we have not seen a single oil related failure over the last three years with 800 CFI engines running this oil. Redline is not something that we sell; we just get asked this question a lot, and want to let you know what works. For more information on Redline Race Oil, visit their website at Red Line Synthetic Oil under the TWO-STROKE OILS tab on the left. This website also contains a dealer locator.
If you choose not to run Red Line full synthetic racing oil, we would recommend that you premix 1 ½ ounces of oil per gallon of fuel (approximately 1 pint per tank of fuel) in addition to running your oil injection. This will provide extra oil to the top end and will greatly reduce the risk of having an oil related engine failure. The 800 CFI-4 engine should use at least one quart of oil per tank of fuel.
If your sled is not using this quantity of oil, you need to check your oil injection pump setting and adjust it accordingly.

Two-Stroke Racing Oil http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=19&pcid=16
Many top performance shops such as SLP,, Wahl Bros racing, LRM, etc. recommend to use Red Line “Racing” Two Stroke Oil in full mod 10,500 RPM engines.....
Red Line & several "TOP" performance shops claim improved reliability & HP increases of 3-5% and Red Line states on there Internet sight........ etc...
============
Many top performance shops such as SLP,, Wahl Bros racing, LRM, etc. recommend to use Red Line “Racing” Two Stroke Oil in full mod 10,500 RPM engines.....
Red Line & several "TOP" performance shops claim improved reliability & HP increases of 3-5% and Red Line states on there Internet sight...

My last post on this thread as I can not read past 75 posts....
 
A

AK IQ Pilot

Well-known member
Dec 29, 2007
123
106
43
Check the Red Bold below. The most important statement in the entire post. Your 800 CFI motor should be using AT LEAST 1 qt of oil per tank of fuel.

You should be using 32oz of oil for every 1400oz of fuel which equals out to a 44:1 Fuel/Oil ratio. And this is at a minimum.

The only way to achieve this kind of oil consumption is to turn up your oil pump.


Thanks for posting flatland. :face-icon-small-coo

Excellent Spot On post as usual!!!
When I asked a Polaris engineer friend in 2009 why my 2009 600 CFI-2+2 Switchback had 4 injectors & not 2 injectors like the 2009 600 CFI-2 Shift or his proto type 600 CFI-2 sled he said proven reliability of CFI 2+2... But also said that Polaris was testing a smaller number of 600cc engines in the 2009 600 Shift to confirm that they had corrected a small number of piston scuffing issues on intake side of pistons on proto type 600 CFI-2 engines... He sent me 2 new special coated CFI-2 600 pistons as the compression on my light mod 2009 600 SB had 20 psi lower compression then his proto type 600 CFI-2 test sled when we tested both sleds with my compression gauge...

This Polaris engineer approved of me adding 1 oz of Red Line 2 Stroke "RACE" oil per gallon of gas to my 2009 light mod 600 CFI 2+2… This extra oil did not lean out my 600 CFI 2+2 injected engine by more then 1%…
But this 1 oz extra oil per gallon (128 oz) of gas, the extra128:1 fuel to oil ratio did leaned out my old carbureted heavy 800 Poo by approx. 1%...
==================
SLP posted, the HCS IQ from area: We (SLP) would recommend that you premix 1 ½ ounces of oil per gallon of fuel…..
What oil do you recommend that I run in my sled?
Engines that are high horsepower verses cubic centimeter require higher quality oil to support the additional stress on engine parts. This is especially true on EFI engines that run cleaner with an increase in exhaust temperature since fueling is typically leaner when compared to carbureted models. Lower quality oils will tend to run away from heat as well as not having the film strength to support the horsepower range.
The 800 CFI engine is very sensitive to oil quality. We recommend running Redline Two Stroke Racing Oil (it has both a snowmobile and a motorcycle pictured on the jug). We have found this oil to be far superior to any other oil that we have tested to date. It has great film strength and lubricity properties and we have not seen a single oil related failure over the last three years with 800 CFI engines running this oil. Redline is not something that we sell; we just get asked this question a lot, and want to let you know what works. For more information on Redline Race Oil, visit their website at Red Line Synthetic Oil under the TWO-STROKE OILS tab on the left. This website also contains a dealer locator.
If you choose not to run Red Line full synthetic racing oil, we would recommend that you premix 1 ½ ounces of oil per gallon of fuel (approximately 1 pint per tank of fuel) in addition to running your oil injection. This will provide extra oil to the top end and will greatly reduce the risk of having an oil related engine failure. The 800 CFI-4 engine should use at least one quart of oil per tank of fuel.
[FONT=Arial[COLOR="Red"]]If your sled is not using this quantity of oil, you need to check your oil injection pump setting and adjust it accordingly.[/FONT][/COLOR]

Two-Stroke Racing Oil http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=19&pcid=16
Many top performance shops such as SLP,, Wahl Bros racing, LRM, etc. recommend to use Red Line “Racing” Two Stroke Oil in full mod 10,500 RPM engines.....
Red Line & several "TOP" performance shops claim improved reliability & HP increases of 3-5% and Red Line states on there Internet sight........ etc...
============
Many top performance shops such as SLP,, Wahl Bros racing, LRM, etc. recommend to use Red Line “Racing” Two Stroke Oil in full mod 10,500 RPM engines.....
Red Line & several "TOP" performance shops claim improved reliability & HP increases of 3-5% and Red Line states on there Internet sight...

My last post on this thread as I can not read past 75 posts....
 
G

geo

Well-known member
Dec 1, 2007
2,170
2,336
113
68
Kamloops B.C.
I turned up my oil pump 4.5 turns right from the start. I wanted to start rich and work down. At that setting I burn 32 to 1 from the oil bottle average on a ride (more at wide open and less a low throttle).

It stayed there because that's what I wanted to settle at from that part of the lubrication system.
In the fuel I add 100 to 1 which brings my overall ratio to 25 to 1 average. I'm very happy there because I want 20 to1 at wide open and 32 to 1 at part throttle.

I've used a semi-syn inexpensive oil for decades (basically Yamalube bottled by the original supplier Esso or Mobil now I think). It is not the cleanest oil out there today but why screw with a good thing.

My reason for posting this is that some people still believe it is the oil or ratio that fouls plugs or carbons things up. That's so old school, like 20 to 30 years too late. Nobody pours 30wt engine oil into their oil tank any more (about what you got in a two stroke oil from the 70's).
About the late 80's any oil in a rich enough mixture provided the protection and burned off well.

It's the jetting (fuel management) that`s will give you these issues (very rare today though with EFI). If your too rich your combustion temps are low and the flash point of the oil can become an issue. Any oil at any ratio.
Plug fouling (fairly rare today) or excessive carbon build up (not so rare today) can be eliminated with jetting with todays oils at any mixture ratio.

Don`t blame it on the oil. The oil is your engines best friend lol.

Little tip for only those that monitor their engines. Drop to an 8 plug from the excessively safe 9 and watch the plug and piston top change to that nice two stroke brown.
Again only for those that watch the plugs and wash.
 
A

AK IQ Pilot

Well-known member
Dec 29, 2007
123
106
43
I turned up my oil pump 4.5 turns right from the start. I wanted to start rich and work down. At that setting I burn 32 to 1 from the oil bottle average on a ride (more at wide open and less a low throttle).

It stayed there because that's what I wanted to settle at from that part of the lubrication system.
In the fuel I add 100 to 1 which brings my overall ratio to 25 to 1 average. I'm very happy there because I want 20 to1 at wide open and 32 to 1 at part throttle.

I've used a semi-syn inexpensive oil for decades (basically Yamalube bottled by the original supplier Esso or Mobil now I think). It is not the cleanest oil out there today but why screw with a good thing.

My reason for posting this is that some people still believe it is the oil or ratio that fouls plugs or carbons things up. That's so old school, like 20 to 30 years too late. Nobody pours 30wt engine oil into their oil tank any more (about what you got in a two stroke oil from the 70's).
About the late 80's any oil in a rich enough mixture provided the protection and burned off well.

It's the jetting (fuel management) that`s will give you these issues (very rare today though with EFI). If your too rich your combustion temps are low and the flash point of the oil can become an issue. Any oil at any ratio.
Plug fouling (fairly rare today) or excessive carbon build up (not so rare today) can be eliminated with jetting with todays oils at any mixture ratio.

Don`t blame it on the oil. The oil is your engines best friend lol.

Little tip for only those that monitor their engines. Drop to an 8 plug from the excessively safe 9 and watch the plug and piston top change to that nice two stroke brown.
Again only for those that watch the plugs and wash.

Very good post geo and Spot On. :first:
 
S

sledneck_03

Well-known member
Jan 3, 2009
2,326
613
113
Saskatoon, SK
I turned mine up, what i bitch. Used a small socket wrench, 1/4"? Drive with the 8mm socket. I tried a couple other ways but no success. I was about to take half my sled apart when i found the small ratchet.

I turned the nut out and it in turn turned the screw out a 1/4 turn. Turned it in 1/4 turn then 3 turns in. But when i was turning nut out with my finger it might have turned it out. Any who im in 3 turns. Possibly 2.5 or even 3.5.
 
Last edited:
W

waxer

Well-known member
Nov 2, 2012
20,842
7,383
113
I turned mine up, what i bitch. Used a small socket wrench, 1/4"? Drive with the 8mm socket. I tried a couple other ways but no success. I was about to take half my sled apart when i found the small ratchet.

I turned the nut out and it in turn turned the screw out a 1/4 turn. Turned it in 1/4 turn then 3 turns in. But when i was turning nut out with my finger it might have turned it out. Any who im in 3 turns. Possibly 2.5 or even 3.5.

About how many threads showing? I did mine the same as you(same problem) and have about three threads, funny thing about that nut,LOL!:face-icon-small-hap
 
S

sledneck_03

Well-known member
Jan 3, 2009
2,326
613
113
Saskatoon, SK
dy4urusa.jpg


Looks like 3-4


About how many threads showing? I did mine the same as you(same problem) and have about three threads, funny thing about that nut,LOL!:face-icon-small-hap
 
O

Oregonsledder

Well-known member
Jan 27, 2009
992
815
93
Bend Oregon
Pretty close,mine def smokes!:face-icon-small-hap

Mark, I suspect you also have break-in oil in the tank, that the dealer added. It won't smoke much at all after that tank of gas is burnt. 3 turns doesn't make as much of a smoke change as many might think.
 
W

waxer

Well-known member
Nov 2, 2012
20,842
7,383
113
Dang I know & I like the smell LOL! Actually I had to add it to the tank:face-icon-small-hap
Mark, I suspect you also have break-in oil in the tank, that the dealer added. It won't smoke much at all after that tank of gas is burnt. 3 turns doesn't make as much of a smoke change as many might think.
 
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