2013 Pro RMK 800. should I buy it?

[Scott SB]

Thanks everyone for all the responses.

So what would you suggest @sledhed ?

 

[iliketuna]

I used to have that exact sled and It was great. is it the belt drive or chain, I prefer the belt. Super light a more maneuverable machine then the skidoo of the same year. Id do another compression test on your own. Just go buy a gauge they're cheap and then YouTube how to do it, takes 30 mins or less for a beginner. If you buy it change out the a-arms to a narrower set and youre good to go. Price is slightly high. If you can afford to or can find a 2016 or newer in your price range they are better the handling chassis. But again of you swap out the a arms to the 36" front end it will make it way easier to maneuver. good luck.

 

[mtncat1]

Thanks for the encouragement mtncat1!
Your sure that's normal?
I'm totally willing to believe you, actually I really want to believe you, but I would really like to be sure.

i had the same sled , there is a drain hose from the power valves that leaks all over . a lot of guys reroute it rather than clean the area all the time

 

[sledhed]

Thanks everyone for all the responses.

So what would you suggest @sledhed ?

Pull power valves, replace bellows and gaskets, reroute the hose from the selenoid out of the belly pan... might be exhaust gasket or cracked y-pipe like some have suggested, I'd clean up the mess and see where it starts reappearing or just remove, inspect, replace everything bad... lookng for cracks or damage... nice sled though, worth a little effort

 

[Scott SB]

I've read that removing the power valves on this sled can be a bit of a pain, is that true? I'm pretty sure I can do it, just wanting to know what I'm in for.

 

[sledhed]

I've read that removing the power valves on this sled can be a bit of a pain, is that true? I'm pretty sure I can do it, just wanting to know what I'm in for.

IIRC, loosen up the steering shaft bracket that will allow you to slide the one obstructed guillotine all the way out of the cylinder... if it has a fix kit with a cylinder base spacer it might be even tighter, but that is how I got them out when I had a pro (without the cylinder spacer)... didn't have to take it all the way loose, just loose enough to give me the space to get it done.

 

[Scott]

I had a 2013 with a quick drive.
It was a good sled. I loved it and had lots of smiles and 4500 miles. I sold it last year with a 910 big bore.

Doesn't hurt to check the drive shaft to make sure that bearing is good on the exhaust side. Sometimes they went out on those.

 

[SledEd77]

I've read that removing the power valves on this sled can be a bit of a pain, is that true? I'm pretty sure I can do it, just wanting to know what I'm in for.

Yes it is, I just finished doing mine last night. Had to remove the exhaust pipe and the steering column that is restricting the valve to come out on the PTO side. You'll have to remove the plastic cover on the valve before removing the valve assembly

 

[czimpel]

Check the track driveshaft bearing just behind and below the secondary clutch. Some of the 2013-2014 had issues with the shaft wearing inside of the bearing. I believe some of the 2014 sleds had this fixed, but I would double check it.

 

[davesilb]

One other thing that you could have is a crack in the y pipe and on start up when you have extra oil coming out the exhaust it gets out the crack. I had this happen on my machine. But i think the first thing to check is the billows in the power values

I agree as I too had a crack in the y pipe causing the oil build up showed

 

[beer20574]

He's had it since 2014 and hasn't ridden it for the last two years. He had the crank rebuilt and a fix it kit put in (with receipt) by A2D motorsports (local repair shop). He claims he had the fixitkit done just for precaution. He says there are no problems with it. And the price is a little flexible.