2004 700 Liberty checklist

[Rmk69]

Hey again, got my motor out, crank seal changed, bearings checked, and now the motor is back in the sled and everything is hooked back up. I will be filling it with coolant and doing a few checks before starting it back up. Any help on oil pump adjustment, coolant filling tips for a drained system, and anything else I should double check or maybe am overlooking before starting back up would be greatly appreciated !

 

[retiredpop]

Elevate the front of the sled a couple of feet when you put the coolant in to get out the air bubbles.

 

[BeartoothBaron]

Make sure you get any and all air bubbles out of the oil lines. First, you want to make sure the line from the reservoir to the pump is bled (just fill the tank, open the bleeder screw, and let oil dribble out until there are no bubbles in the line). Second, it's a good idea to run the oil pump and make sure you've got oil flowing through the lines. Air bubbles aren't as big a deal if they're after the pump - it's when there's air in the pump that you can lose oiling completely - but it's good to make sure oil is feeding through all the lines. As for adjustment, there's a mark on the arm of the pump that's supposed to align with a mark on the body at idle; tighten up the cable to the pump until it's aligned, or slightly past wouldn't hurt. One more good practice is to fill the oil tank from near empty a pint at a time, making a mark each time. After a couple gas fills, you'll be able to get a pretty accurate figure for your fuel-oil mix. If it's a little off, you can adjust the pump; if it's way off, you might have a problem.

Also, ditto the coolant thing. You want the nose elevated 30 degrees or so; just opening the bleed screw on the thermostat housing doesn't do much, and even the service manual procedures aren't great. Then, when you start it up, feel the coolers to make sure they're warming up with the engine. I flushed the whole system on my EDGE, and it was a pain to get all the air out.

 

[whoisthatguy]

Before plugging the 4 oil lines into the oil pump, plug the intake oil line into the oil pump and with the pump removed from it's housing, spin the flat drive knob counterclockwise until you get oil being pushed out of the 4 nipples that the 4 hoses are attached to. It's a little late now but when you originally removed the 4 hoses from the oil pump, carb and engine nipples, you stick a 16d smooth nail into the end so the oil does not drain out. Engines that have been sitting around for some time, usually have oil slowly drain into the bottom of the crankcase. However with a freshly cleaned crank case, you should get minimum oil smoke coming from a newly started engine. But there has to be some smoke. The oil pump pushes oil into the carbs and crankcase at a ratio of 1 part oil to 40 parts gasoline. Half of the oil goes into the carburetor and bleeds into the venturi air shaft. The other half is injected into each end of the crankshaft. Those oil bleed holes in the carb should be cleared with compressed air if the engine has not been run for awhile.