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Feels too light on the skis,

F-Bomb

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There really isn't a single limiter strap on your sled's suspension? Just like Bagger said. IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A LIMITER STRAP ON THE UPPER FRONT ARM DOWN TO A CROSS BEAM..that is the only place to start. The single lightweight strap idea is a bit suspect. I'm still on my first one for the PRO but my Alpha-X needed many. Totally different shock spec setups. We used to make our own custom straps to really get a dial in. You get no adjustments with the stock PRO style straps...I put a couple settings in mine depending on the experience we were hoping for.
 

rmk2112

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There really isn't a single limiter strap on your sled's suspension? Just like Bagger said. IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A LIMITER STRAP ON THE UPPER FRONT ARM DOWN TO A CROSS BEAM..that is the only place to start. The single lightweight strap idea is a bit suspect. I'm still on my first one for the PRO but my Alpha-X needed many. Totally different shock spec setups. We used to make our own custom straps to really get a dial in. You get no adjustments with the stock PRO style straps...I put a couple settings in mine depending on the experience we were hoping for.

I was referring to old style 3 hole, adjustable set up. I have since found out that the single strap I have now is adjustable on the strap itself.

I'm going to loosen the adjuster nut on FTS 2 turns and see what results I get and dial it in from there. I marked all my shocks with a sharpie when I got it home from dealer so I would have a baseline to go on.

Unless anyone else has a brainstorm. :)
 
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stonehands1

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My 155XP was fun to ride with limiter strap stock but to much weight transfer hurt how it would climb in deeper snow. Was out with a buddy and he rides a M1000 162. We were poking this hill that was pretty steep and could only get about half way up cutting a fresh track. My 155XP was climbing right with his 162. I broke the limiter strap and had to fix on the hill. B/c it only had single strap, to fix it required me to suck it up really tight. Thats when I became a believer in tight straps when climbing steep pow. I went and poked the same hill we had hit 4-5 times each and only made it half way up and climbed right to the top! My buddy and I were amazed by how that one change made so much difference.
That being said: As well as it climbs the ski pressure is to much for everyday riding. Bought 2 new straps with extra holes. If snow is really deep and soft I just suck it up for the hills. If harder snow or just sight seeing then take five minutes and let it out. I have Fox float in front so it's easy to adjust pressure with strap adjustment. Spring shock might take some tuning to figure out what works best with different strap lengths.
 

rmk2112

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Looks like my initial set up was wrong coming out of the dealer
Rear Track Shock was too soft
Front Track Shock was too firm

Owners Manual Spec for RTS:

Rider weight: 160-220 lbs = 10 3/8" spring length
Rider weight: 220-280 lbs = 10 1/8" spring length


My RTS spring length was set at 10 1/2"
It's now set at 10". I'm about 225 lbs. fully geared so I made it a bit firmer than specs.

Service Manual Spec for FTS:

Front Track Shock spring length - 8 1/2"

Mine was set at 8".
The extra 1/2" of preload explains why it felt so light on the skis. Decreasing preload on FTS increases ski pressure.

I'm going to try out this set up this weekend and report back.
One thing concerns me though, in order to get the FTS spring length to 8 1/2", I had to loosen the adjusting nut all the way to the bottom of the threads. You would think that if it were at spec, you'd still have the ability to adjust both directions if needed. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
And yes, the sled is on a sled stand with no weight on the shocks with springs unsprung while taking measurements.
 
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J

Jaynelson

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Looks like my initial set up was wrong coming out of the dealer
Rear Track Shock was too soft
Front Track Shock was too firm

Owners Manual Spec for RTS:

Rider weight: 160-220 lbs = 10 3/8" spring length
Rider weight: 220-280 lbs = 10 1/8" spring length


My RTS spring length was set at 10 1/2"
It's now set at 10". I'm about 225 lbs. fully geared so I made it a bit firmer than specs.

Service Manual Spec for FTS:

Front Track Shock spring length - 8 1/2"

Mine was set at 8".
The extra 1/2" of preload explains why it felt so light on the skis. Decreasing preload on FTS increases ski pressure.

I'm going to try out this set up this weekend and report back.
One thing concerns me though, in order to get the FTS spring length to 8 1/2", I had to loosen the adjusting nut all the way to the bottom of the threads. You would think that if it were at spec, you'd still have the ability to adjust both directions if needed. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
And yes, the sled is on a sled stand with no weight on the shocks with springs unsprung while taking measurements.
My thoughts are that the:

Front Track Shock spring length - 8 1/2"

Is the actual length of the spring when it's uncompressed....not a spec for a recommended adjustment, which is why there's no rider weight attached to the spec. In turn, it would make sense that would be its length when the adjustment is all the way loose. Either way, if you're trying to achieve more ski pressure I would try it that why and see what you think.
 

rmk2112

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My thoughts are that the:

Front Track Shock spring length - 8 1/2"

Is the actual length of the spring when it's uncompressed....not a spec for a recommended adjustment, which is why there's no rider weight attached to the spec. In turn, it would make sense that would be its length when the adjustment is all the way loose. Either way, if you're trying to achieve more ski pressure I would try it that why and see what you think.

That number came from the Initial shock settings listed as original factory settings on pg 8.6 from the service manual.

There is still pressure on the spring when set at 8 1/2", enough that I can't reach in there and move or compress the spring by hand.

Only time and testing will tell. :)
Thanks for the input. :)
 

AKSNOWRIDER

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RMK. my fts is set with about 3-4 threads left under it..so where you set it sounds about right(mark at holz also told me to keep the frt shock as soft as possible for deep snow..)..between the two..rear a little soft, frt a little tight..sounds like you will be good now...
 
M
Nov 28, 2007
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hey jeff let me know how that new setup works for ya';) but most defiantley if you want more ski pressure softer middle stiffer rear. this will also lessen your approach angel and make it trench less. bagger was dead on with a nice explaination thrown in...
 

TRS

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Be careful you don't loose the FTS spring keeper. The springs are measured with the shock uninstalled. Here are some pictures for ref. on lengths. The installed shock, spring was set at 8.375" on the bench and is also in a non incumbered suspension.

IMG_3252.jpg IMG_3254.jpg IMG_3258.jpg
 
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2XM3

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IMHO on 3 sleds I have checked...FTS should be set as loose as possible without spring keeper flopping about...ie aprox 1/8 3/16 or so threads showing at the bottom..then you basicly never touch it again...rear shock needs to be set to your weight and riding style to achieve proper balance, I'm 6'6" and 300 dressed so I run the fat boy spring in mine, but even with that the factory spec is very very close in the chart.
The front springs I like as loose as possible without bottoming out.
i've tried up to 1 1/4 inch thread showing in the fts but the 3/16 works for me best
 

rmk2112

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RMK. my fts is set with about 3-4 threads left under it..so where you set it sounds about right(mark at holz also told me to keep the frt shock as soft as possible for deep snow..)..between the two..rear a little soft, frt a little tight..sounds like you will be good now...

That was the ticket on the FTS...@ 8.5" there are about 3 threads showing under the nut.
I set my RTS at 10 1/8"

It was a 180 degree difference....felt like a different sled....felt like a Pro should feel! :)
She climbing right up onto the snow and never even tried to trench once..
Ski pressure was spot on too....just enough to make the turns on the trail, but was easily able to pick the front end up with the throttle.

She also "woke up" today.....WOW!!!

Suspension working as it should.....
Carl's Clutching ...incredible!!
And the sled hitting its full resources and power

I LOVE THIS SLED!!
I can't say enough about how much power and snappy throttle response it has.

Thanks to all who posted in the thread, everyone's input was helpful.
 
Last edited:

AKSNOWRIDER

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That was the ticket on the FTS...@ 8.5" there are about 3 threads showing under the nut.
I set my RTS at 10 1/8"

It was a 180 degree difference....felt like a different sled....felt like a Pro should feel! :)
She climbing right up onto the snow and never even tried to trench once..

She also "woke up" today.....WOW!!!

Suspension working as it should.....
Carl's Clutching ...incredible!!
And the sled hitting its full resources and power

I LOVE THIS SLED!!
I can't say enough about how much power and snappy throttle response it has.

Thanks to all who posted in the thread, everyone's input was helpful.
glad you got it rmk...sleds are just a blast when they are dialed....
 

2XM3

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That was the ticket on the FTS...@ 8.5" there are about 3 threads showing under the nut.
I set my RTS at 10 1/8"

It was a 180 degree difference....felt like a different sled....felt like a Pro should feel! :)
She climbing right up onto the snow and never even tried to trench once..
Ski pressure was spot on too....just enough to make the turns on the trail, but was easily able to pick the front end up with the throttle.

She also "woke up" today.....WOW!!!

Suspension working as it should.....
Carl's Clutching ...incredible!!
And the sled hitting its full resources and power

I LOVE THIS SLED!!
I can't say enough about how much power and snappy throttle response it has.

Thanks to all who posted in the thread, everyone's input was helpful.

Good job, glad ya got it set the way you like, i've actually been toying with trying softer valving the the front track shock for deep powder days...but really not needed.
 
R
Mar 10, 2011
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Great read guys, I just picked up my new Pro and having a good understanding of the consequences of spring adjustment will help all riders.
One question I have is the spring length measurement! Do I measure the spring from the top of the white spring to the bottom of the white spring? Or from the top of the nut to the bottom of the nut? The manual photo isnt very clear!
Thanks
 
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rmk2112

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Great read guys, I just picked up my new Pro and having a good understanding of the consequences of spring adjustment will help all riders.
One question I have is the prying length measurement! D I measure the spring from the top of the white spring to the bottom of the white spring? Mor from the top of the nut to the bottom of the nut? The manual photo isnt very clear!
Thanks

Spring length only, do not include adjuster nut.
 
G
Dec 2, 2009
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Has anyone installed the heavier spring Polaris sells for the RTS. I am 250 with all gear on and am looking at installing it. I suspect in terms of overall spring length etc it would be set the same as the book specs, it just is heavier spring for the heavier load?

thoughts?
 

06redrevx

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Yes the spring measurement should be with the weight off of the suspension
 
R
Dec 3, 2001
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Thanks for all the info/tips.
My springs were way stiff for my weight it turns out.
All 4 springs too stiff.
Bought the sled used and never changed it; I thought it was working great.

Trying some much softer settings, curious to see how it changes.

I still have lots of thread left too... I think I'll still need to go much lighter on the FTS.


I did sorta wonder why I have never bottomed the sled out tbh..
 
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