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Installation and Review: SKINZ Air Frame Running Boards

christopher

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Ski-Doo Klim EZ Lynk
<hr style="color: rgb(232, 232, 232); background-color: rgb(232, 232, 232);" size="1">This afternoon my Skinz Protective Gear Airframe Boards arrived from Sled Solutions (http://www.sledsolutions.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=164_168_191&products_id=760).

I requested this be powdercoated in Yamaha Blue as I thought it would add a nice touch to my Blue 2010 SE. Skinz was more than happy to accommodate this request and did a fabulous job on the powder-coating!


While I have not yet done the install, I wanted to let everyone know what was built and shipped to me.

Some may ask why I bother with the photos of the shipping material. Having been in custom manufacturing, HOW a specialty product is packed and shipped to the customer says ALOT about the overall quality of the product itself.

Skinz packaging and shipping was FIRST RATE!
Everything arrived INTACT without any scratches or abrasions, extremely well wrapped and boxed.

The overall quality of the finished product "Appears" to be excellent!
The beauty of their aluminum welds speaks volumes all by itself. Every one of the welds was Clean and Crisp, and there are a whole lot of welds!!


As summer rolls along and I get this installed, I will add more to this post.


The Box.
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Well Wrapped, each board fully isolated from the other one.
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Board on it's side.
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Board flat in the position you would stand on it.
Notice there are NO traction studs installed.
The user is required to drill and screw all of the studs into the cross bars for traction.
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Closeup of Front Rightside Board
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Closeup of Front Rightside board
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Closeup Rear Rightside Board.
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Boards were shipped with.
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True Weight
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Mounting Rivets and Traction Screws
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Now that the photos are posted, some thoughts.

The boards are pretty much exactly what I was hoping they would be.
They feel STRONG and STIFF in my hands.
Very solid and if looks tell you anything, very well made.
Of course I won't really know till the old boards are cut off and the new ones riveted on.

I was a little surprised that none of the traction screws were installed from the factory, but I can understand why, and it might turn out that that makes the boards easier to install onto the sled. As once they are riveted to the sled, they will be in a great position to drill the pilot holes and then fasten in the screws. Again, only time will tell.

But for now I am JAZZED.
These look nothing short of stunning and I can't wait to see my sled with them installed.
 
Was hoping to see some traction screws as the page scrolled down! Drilling on a radius is always fun, hope you can get it done without scratching the powder coat. Looks like a nice product though
 
The screws are all in the little plastic bag.
Haven't zeroed in on how I am going to pull off that little feat.
A drill press would be really nice if there was a simple fast way to hold the board in place and drill away.

have not gone through the printed instructions they sent yet.
 
Skinz never cuts corners, product to packaging! There is a lot of truth to the saying, "you get what you pay for".

Can't wait to see the install take shape.

What note on the traction screws. If you think about it you will be happy they give you the freedom to install as many or few as you want AND where. The key to installing will be a sharp punch and a gentle hand.
 
I like that the instructions tell you to read them TWICE before you get started.
 
very interested to see how those boards attach to the tunnel and how stiff they end up being. Keep us posted.
 
Have rode the boards, they are insanely strong...WAY stronger than stock, and stronger than other aftermarket boards...(have had the two top brands) I am about 250...and when they dont flex with me on them, they are plenty strong!!!

Here is a pic of them in action last winter...

IMG_0415Medium.jpg
 
very interested to see how those boards attach to the tunnel and how stiff they end up being. Keep us posted.
Will do.
I am waiting on a small piece for my new sled lift.
Once that piece arrives, the sled comes into the garage and goes under the knife!!
 
Have rode the boards, they are insanely strong...WAY stronger than stock, and stronger than other aftermarket boards...(have had the two top brands) I am about 250...and when they dont flex with me on them, they are plenty strong!!!

Here is a pic of them in action last winter...
Just from holding them I would have to agree.
There is NO TWIST or FLEX to them at all.
The cross member construction has resulted in a VERY RIDGED structure.

Like MTdream, I am 230lbs, and looking forward to a more secure foothold and doesn't flex under my weight.
 
Yeah the studs are another thing that might come loose over time. So how all do these boards attach to the tunnel other then the 2 main mounting spots (1front, 1 rear?)
 
As far as the drilling on a radius just get a very small sharp punch and give it a whack were you want to drill, that will keep the drill bit in place to start your hole. Do these only attach at each end of the board?
 
The following comment was sent to me from someone who knows...

IMO...you should also use some structural adhesive in your install...same stuff Polaris and others are using in the assembly of the chassis... Lord brand #406 or similar.... easy to apply, releases with heat.... will make the boards and tunnel even stronger. you would need to sand the powdercoat in the contact area for the bond to be effective.


I have great respect for the source of this comment and will be following his advice.
 
I am VERY intrigued by project. Do the boards come powder coated? I would like to see how you cut off the old boards and where your mounting points are for the new ones. When you get an old board removed, do you think we can see how much it weighs? Just curious on on the weight difference. Keep the pics coming! Thanks Chris!
 
I will report back on all of that.

I think the boards come BLACK from the factory, but I am NOT sure about that.

I wanted Blue, and ordered them custom.

The instructions say to cut off the old boards, but to leave a 0.75 inch lip on the bottom, that will allow you to mount up the tube of the new boards to the lip of the old ones.

I will be using both an adhesive and rivets to do the final attachment.
 
they look cool, but i don't think i would buy them due to the slippery round tubes and traction screws. traction screws are a thing of the past (didn't like them 15 yrs ago and don't like them now ). also would be nice if you had the option to take the toe hooks off.
 
Once they are on and I have had a chance to ride with them next winter, I will report back on just how well they do or do not work.

The traction screws WERE a surprise to me!
Not at all what I was expecting to see.

I "thought" I was going to see vertical rivets in each of the cross support bars.
 
I am VERY intrigued by project. Do the boards come powder coated? I would like to see how you cut off the old boards and where your mounting points are for the new ones. When you get an old board removed, do you think we can see how much it weighs? Just curious on on the weight difference. Keep the pics coming! Thanks Chris!

The boards come powder coated or polished aluminum.
 
Still in the prep mode to installing the boards.
Spent last night drilling out rivets holding in the stock boards.
Never drilled out a rivet upside down before.
What a pain in the butt.

Have to get the rear drop brackets removed from the tunnel next, and then I am ready to cut off the boards and get started with the new install.
 
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