It would just die... Gotta back idle adjust all the way off, close/synch both throttle plates. Set initial voltage, then idle adjust up to needed idle voltage. Then set throttle cable slack afterwards.
Pretty sure thats what would happen trying it.
Where to buy TPS tester?
- Thread starter xc6rider
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It would just die... Gotta back idle adjust all the way off, close/synch both throttle plates. Set initial voltage, then idle adjust up to needed idle voltage. Then set throttle cable slack afterwards.
Pretty sure thats what would happen trying it.
If you haven't read this thread yet, it shows how to do it and has a link to build your own. as for using a 5v charger, so far best I have found is a very spendy computer power supply that is capable of holding a constant 5.0 Volts, cheaper just to build a tester. I use fluke back probe tips, but in a pinch a couple of paper clips straightened would work just fine for back probing... now setting the tps is a critical setting..it requires 3 things, a good/steady 5.0 reference voltage, a very good multi meter(no a $30 cheapy isn't good enough(my fluke runs about 600, but a decent one runs about 125) and last but most important, you must be precise in every part of the procedure, check, recheck and then check again..the settings need to repeat every time....heres the thread....http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=287858
OK, this leads to my next question. Can you put 12V to the external power plug and power up the system with the sled not running and get the 5v signal to the TPS? Eric
Looks nice to me with a good price....correct connector for the tps too!!
Plug in your 9V battery and confirm that you have 5volts on the connector and you are set.
.
Good question.
A solid-state Triac, T0-220 cased, voltage-regulator in the harness that regulates the voltage to a stable 5 vdc is what is used to drop the voltage
of the 9v battery.
.
A solid-state Triac, T0-220 cased, voltage-regulator in the harness that regulates the voltage to a stable 5 vdc is what is used to drop the voltage
of the 9v battery.
.
OK, so I had a little time today to check into this so I printed off the wiring diagram and did some testing.
The bag in front and above the primary clutch that has the test connectors in it, The one labeled ECM PWR. I wanted to double check what it has to it with the sled running before I put an external power to it. It has 13.94-14.0V DC at that connector with the sled idling. B+ side is Orange, GRND side is Brown.
So I hooked up a regular car battery that had measured 13.6 VDC, then checked for my 5 Volt signal at the ECM and on cavity #24 RED/WHT wire (back probe with connector plugged in to ecm) I had EXACTLY 5.00 VDC.
Next I checked the signal wire coming from the TPS at the ECM, cavity #7 AQUA and my idle setting measured .939 VDC.
Testing done ==== NO special tool needed. I did all my testing at the ECM because its easy to get at, and THATS what the ECM is actually seeing, you do the testing by unhooking the TPS connector and you may be covering up a bad connection or bad/faulty wiring. This INFO is for a 2012 Pro 800, other years may vary. Hope this helps. Eric
Page 4.43 of service manual. Idle Base setting .930-.950V DC My sled is set at .939 and works perfect, I don't have any starting issues, reverses issues or drivability problems. I was just testing mine for the fun of it
The bag in front and above the primary clutch that has the test connectors in it, The one labeled ECM PWR. I wanted to double check what it has to it with the sled running before I put an external power to it. It has 13.94-14.0V DC at that connector with the sled idling. B+ side is Orange, GRND side is Brown.
So I hooked up a regular car battery that had measured 13.6 VDC, then checked for my 5 Volt signal at the ECM and on cavity #24 RED/WHT wire (back probe with connector plugged in to ecm) I had EXACTLY 5.00 VDC.
Next I checked the signal wire coming from the TPS at the ECM, cavity #7 AQUA and my idle setting measured .939 VDC.
Testing done ==== NO special tool needed. I did all my testing at the ECM because its easy to get at, and THATS what the ECM is actually seeing, you do the testing by unhooking the TPS connector and you may be covering up a bad connection or bad/faulty wiring. This INFO is for a 2012 Pro 800, other years may vary. Hope this helps. Eric
Page 4.43 of service manual. Idle Base setting .930-.950V DC My sled is set at .939 and works perfect, I don't have any starting issues, reverses issues or drivability problems. I was just testing mine for the fun of it
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Eric, you da man!
Personally I have not taken the time to dive into this yet. Thanks to everyone that have. Would be nice to get a couple of confirming nods from knowing heads on the latest find here, to be sure we are not missing something?
This would simplify matters a bit I think.
RS
I'm suprised it hasn't been mentioned, if it has I'm sorry, but cat makes and sells one with MANY different plugs on it. Works amazing, and I have yet to come across a tps that it didn't work on.
Also just an fyi for the homemade tester u can buy the correct plug from Polaris. I think it was for an update on the 900s. This is what I have for mine and it makes it a lot better then the alligator clips.
L
For me I like to use the power up cable from SLP and have the ecu power up the tps that way I know it is the correct voltage or at least double check it this way after its set up on the bench. Too many variables and we want to be as accurate as possible.
T.P.S. TESTER POLARIS PART # 2201519-A
POLARIS PART # 2201519-A
It's an SPX tool sold only through dealers, approx $ 50
This T.P.S. Tester works on ALL POLARIS TPS set-ups
Carbs ,CFI, SLEDS, RZR's
You'll still need an ACCURATE voltmeter to connect to the TPS tester whether you build one or purchase the POLARIS/SPX Tool
POLARIS PART # 2201519-A
It's an SPX tool sold only through dealers, approx $ 50
This T.P.S. Tester works on ALL POLARIS TPS set-ups
Carbs ,CFI, SLEDS, RZR's
You'll still need an ACCURATE voltmeter to connect to the TPS tester whether you build one or purchase the POLARIS/SPX Tool
SETTING THE T.P.S. THE RIGHT WAY
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That may be a quick way of checking it to see if it's in the ballpark, but it is NOT accurate.
The ONLY way to ACCURATELY SET/CHECK the T.P.S. is to bring the throttle blades to the FULLY CLOSED POSITION, PERIOD!
1) After you have your T.P.S. tester, accurate digital voltmeter, & verified you are working with 5.000 volts
2) Back off on the "idle screw" and get the throttle blades FULLY CLOSED, you then look for .70 volts.(this varies with model)
3) At this point in time you, then loosen the torx screws on the T.P.S. adjust it until .70 volts is showing on your voltmeter.
4) Tighten down the torx screws and re-check to make sure the voltage hasn't changed
5) Next, turn the "idle screw" until you see .93 volts (varies with model) and you're finished.
Do NOT mess with the "idle speed screw" after this, as the voltage reading essentially determines your idle speed.
Did this last season on my 2013 PRO-R 800 at the dealer. At first the tech referenced the short-cut method for checking it, then he re-read the service manual, then re-did it in front of me (as described above), and YES it was OFF!
OK, so I had a little time today to check into this so I printed off the wiring diagram and did some testing.
The bag in front and above the primary clutch that has the test connectors in it, The one labeled ECM PWR. I wanted to double check what it has to it with the sled running before I put an external power to it. It has 13.94-14.0V DC at that connector with the sled idling. B+ side is Orange, GRND side is Brown.
So I hooked up a regular car battery that had measured 13.6 VDC, then checked for my 5 Volt signal at the ECM and on cavity #24 RED/WHT wire (back probe with connector plugged in to ecm) I had EXACTLY 5.00 VDC.
Next I checked the signal wire coming from the TPS at the ECM, cavity #7 AQUA and my idle setting measured .939 VDC.
Testing done ==== NO special tool needed. I did all my testing at the ECM because its easy to get at, and THATS what the ECM is actually seeing, you do the testing by unhooking the TPS connector and you may be covering up a bad connection or bad/faulty wiring. This INFO is for a 2012 Pro 800, other years may vary. Hope this helps. Eric
Page 4.43 of service manual. Idle Base setting .930-.950V DC My sled is set at .939 and works perfect, I don't have any starting issues, reverses issues or drivability problems. I was just testing mine for the fun of it
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That may be a quick way of checking it to see if it's in the ballpark, but it is NOT accurate.
The ONLY way to ACCURATELY SET/CHECK the T.P.S. is to bring the throttle blades to the FULLY CLOSED POSITION, PERIOD!
1) After you have your T.P.S. tester, accurate digital voltmeter, & verified you are working with 5.000 volts
2) Back off on the "idle screw" and get the throttle blades FULLY CLOSED, you then look for .70 volts.(this varies with model)
3) At this point in time you, then loosen the torx screws on the T.P.S. adjust it until .70 volts is showing on your voltmeter.
4) Tighten down the torx screws and re-check to make sure the voltage hasn't changed
5) Next, turn the "idle screw" until you see .93 volts (varies with model) and you're finished.
Do NOT mess with the "idle speed screw" after this, as the voltage reading essentially determines your idle speed.
Did this last season on my 2013 PRO-R 800 at the dealer. At first the tech referenced the short-cut method for checking it, then he re-read the service manual, then re-did it in front of me (as described above), and YES it was OFF!
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T.P.S. plugs are the same for sleds and RZR's with T.P.S. sensors
CFI's set with the throttle blades FULLY CLOSED voltage specs around .70 volts, then opened up a bit to .91-.95 volts (varies with model)
Carbed models, set WIDE OPEN voltage specs around 4.0 -4.1 volts(varies with model)
I think he's on the same page Kraven! Just checking to see if in fact you can power it, as well as access wires to get readings. Don't believe he went thru adjusting it.
In theory, as long as we have room to make the throttle plate and idle adjustments (with bodies left on the sled), it should just be a different way of getting it done. As well as setting it at thee exact reference voltage that the ecu will be receiving while it's running. Without a tool...
I can see how having the tool would be pretty nice for setting the TPS with the bodies on a bench top etc....
In theory, as long as we have room to make the throttle plate and idle adjustments (with bodies left on the sled), it should just be a different way of getting it done. As well as setting it at thee exact reference voltage that the ecu will be receiving while it's running. Without a tool...
I can see how having the tool would be pretty nice for setting the TPS with the bodies on a bench top etc....
Last year I bought the tester that is listed on ebay, there was a thread on here about the guy making them, I can't remember who turned me onto to it. Anyway the thing is dirt simple and works great, anyone looking to buy an already made, inexpensive tester your search is over.
Just wanted to clarify
In my experience, MOST POLARIS dealers do not want to spend the 20 minutes of time to set the TPS correctly
They check the voltage at "idle" (same as he described above) and call it good
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