2015 Silber Turbo Bog

Slednut84 · Dec 30, 2015

Brand new plugs, baffle la removed, and ECU was just flashed by Silber a few months ago. TPS was checked on one of our two sleds with this same problem and was spot on. It has to be something with the tuning based on what people are saying in the other threads.

JJ_0909 said:
1) No way the problem you are describing is octane related

2) What condition are your plugs in? Good idea to swap them out just to eliminate that as a possible problem

3) This is the ECU reflash right?

4) Did you remove the baffles from the airbox?

5) TPS! I'd wager your TPS is off.

Report on this!

JJ_0909 · Dec 30, 2015

Slednut84 said:
Brand new plugs, baffle la removed, and ECU was just flashed by Silber a few months ago. TPS was checked on one of our two sleds with this same problem and was spot on. It has to be something with the tuning based on what people are saying in the other threads.

If the ECU was just reflashed its highly doubtful it has anything to do with the tune. The latest map is really (really) good. That said, I've seen a few silber kits where they will bog when there is high load on the track then no load (like spinning on a log/bad layer/similar) but these are "outlier" conditions.

Considering its happening to both of them I'd think its highly unlikely its related to a broken clutch

As others said make sure the throttle cable isn't binding. I had this and it can cause all sorts of weirdness. Can you throw digital wrench on it and see if there are any codes being thrown? (mine was throwing a code as a result of this)

Finally make sure you gap the plugs down to the right point, your fuel filter is clear, exhaust valves are clean and you 100% have no exhaust leaks. (not likely considering what you are describing but worth mentioning...there are a number of ways to check this).

wellfed777 · Dec 30, 2015

something is funny for sure the other thread isn't about weird very low rpm bogging
it's interesting that your both having the same symptoms ??
same installer ?
are you both getting fuel from the same place ?
check TSS andTPS

how many miles on new install ?

my point is the map is pretty good at low rpm
heck i rode mine around
and all the way back to the truck with a locked up turbo it ran fine if i kept it under 6000 rpm
so i can't understand how
yours won't even run good off idle

wellfed777 · Dec 30, 2015

can you post a video
does it run different where you unload ?

let us know what you find out

roni87 · Dec 31, 2015

weight

Any chance there isn't enough of an initial load on the engine? Tried more weight or a steeper initial grind on the helix?

Bacon · Jan 3, 2016

Did you do a compression check on the motor? It kind of sounds like a broken primary spring but funny how both do it.

wellfed777 · Jan 3, 2016

any update sled84 ?

dragon_1 · Jan 4, 2016

Sorry don't really have any updates. Got back from our trip out west and haven't had any time to dig into it yet. Just will add that on my sled this is occurring as soon as you touch the throttle from idle, and if you keep light on the throttle such as crawl speed to turn around it will continue to bog until you get the RPMs up and then it totally clears up. Funny thing is it doesn't do it 100% of the time.

Have another friend that mentioned he heard of this exact same complaint from a third silber owner last week. Personally feel this is a tuning issue.

wellfed777 · Jan 4, 2016

yeah go through you sled something is wrong
reeds? clutching ? plugs ? (gap)

are you saying it bogs before the clutch even engages ?

it's not a tuning issue can you imagine if all their pro kits did that you would hear it from everyone who had one

my kit runs good off idle

kgra · Jan 4, 2016

My experience they all do it if your turning or crawling just above clutch engagement on a hill, especially in deep snow. Its most pronounced if you start the sled after being stopped for a couple min and try to line yourself up on a hill. I think its cause the intake temp sensor gets heat soaked and isnt reading actual air intake temps creating a lean bog and sometimes it will even stall.

wellfed777 · Jan 5, 2016

next time i'm out i'll see if i can make mine do it
so far it hasn't happened to me

dragon_1 · Jan 5, 2016

That sounds exactly like my issue. Most pronounced after stopping for a few min and then restarting and try to get moving. It will start to bog as soon as you hit the throttle before clutch engages but will carry into the low end after clutch engages. Get some boost developed and clears up. Never thought of temp sensor that would make some sense! Also has never done this straight from the trailer. Starts after riding for a few

roni87 · Jan 5, 2016

Rising buddy has an internal gate setup and his only bogs right after a warm startup. He just lets idle about 5 seconds and braaaps throttle hard lets off once track spins then it's good to go.
Has always done it and no stumbles after the initial one.

I had my mind set on buying a external setup this year but been seeing a lot of other issues on here....are the internals running better? Maybe the clutching or tuning has to be different on the external 's internal and silber just have a generic setup?

wellfed777 · Jan 5, 2016

this is interesting

mine is an internal and it doesn't do that as far as i know
(600 miles)

what happens if you let it isle for a minute ?

doobie · Jan 5, 2016

i have a 14 kit that runs good, buddy has a 15 external kit that works wicked. theres 5 of us with reflash kits (ride together every trip), the older ones have the odd burp here and there but the 15 external kit is by far the best running out of the pack. were all set up near exact same. 75.5-76.5g 5500-7000 elev 50/50 av,8-10lb boost. 3x13 pros, 1x14 pro,1x15 pro. fernie,revy,golden riding areas. 2 of our 13's gave us some grief but swapped reeds and outter clutch bushing and good again. we all eat primary springs but whatever....

t-revzr · Jan 5, 2016

I just got back from the snowies and only have 300 miles on my setup and I have the exact same issue as you both. I even ran into a guy from Nebraska that asked me if I was having this issue. We calibrated on it for a bit and to us its Justin's tuning. My kit was installed by Justin himself so I would hope its done right. I have checked everything out and I cant find one darn issue with it being something broke or dirty etc. I think my next kit will be a boondocker. Justin wasn't much help either when I texted him about the issue.

Ski-Dont89 · Jan 5, 2016

so let me get this straight. the problem is only occuring on a warm restart after sitting for several minutes? once you get going and riding again the issue is gone?

kgra · Jan 5, 2016

Ski-Dont89 said:
so let me get this straight. the problem is only occuring on a warm restart after sitting for several minutes? once you get going and riding again the issue is gone?

For me thats been the case with the low rpm bog/ stall, which ive learned to work around unless youve just spent 5min on a hill side stopped, stuck or what have you and need to get going side ways or up hill between the trees its not very ideal. But the stutter is anytime its being worked hard (deep heavy snow) with quick throttle movement.

diamonddave · Jan 6, 2016

If that's the case then you guys may want to try one of 2 things: either remove your Thermostat or run the Skidoo T-stat.

Sounds like what may be happening is the extreme hot to cold shock on the coolant temp sensor from the stock cooling system is triggering a temp swing that is too much for the ECM to handle and throws the mapping out of whack. These Polaris ECM's are really dumb guys. I know Bully Dog cracked them but they do not have the ability to change back to normal altitudes and temps like they really should. Once they go over 127'f, and once in the mid 140's F, timing gets F'd up.

And when these sleds go from 2,999 feet to 3,000 feet Baro sensor reading, a shut down of the motor is required for the T-map to go to a higher elevation table. I'm not sure when it happens again above that range but from my sources, these ECM's have 3 seperate Baro tables in the ECM.

I do not run a t stat in mine. I believe member Snowdawg posted pics of the skidoo Tstat in a thread here with pics installed on a Silber system here in the turbo section a few months ago.

If you don't run a stat, you'll just need to be cautious of watching your coolant temps much closer. I watch them religiously before ANY type of takeoffs or throttle movement.

Ski-Dont89 · Jan 6, 2016

diamonddave said:
If that's the case then you guys may want to try one of 2 things: either remove your Thermostat or run the Skidoo T-stat.

Sounds like what may be happening is the extreme hot to cold shock on the coolant temp sensor from the stock cooling system is triggering a temp swing that is too much for the ECM to handle and throws the mapping out of whack. These Polaris ECM's are really dumb guys. I know Bully Dog cracked them but they do not have the ability to change back to normal altitudes and temps like they really should. Once they go over 127'f, and once in the mid 140's F, timing gets F'd up.

And when these sleds go from 2,999 feet to 3,000 feet Baro sensor reading, a shut down of the motor is required for the T-map to go to a higher elevation table. I'm not sure when it happens again above that range but from my sources, these ECM's have 3 seperate Baro tables in the ECM.

I do not run a t stat in mine. I believe member Snowdawg posted pics of the skidoo Tstat in a thread here with pics installed on a Silber system here in the turbo section a few months ago.

If you don't run a stat, you'll just need to be cautious of watching your coolant temps much closer. I watch them religiously before ANY type of takeoffs or throttle movement.

does it take longer to warm up, and take longer for temps to re stabilize after breaks?

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