getting rid of the 02 sensor "pipe sensor"

05M7 · Feb 20, 2013

Been thinking about getting rid of this lately. basically it changes your mapping from when your sled is cool as to when it is hot....so no need for it if you always warm your sled no? then you could get rid of the anoying flashing light on the guage cluster whenever the sensor goes bad.....i know how to fool it just seeing what you guys think.

Most of the thought ive been putting into it has come from tunning bikes on a dyno with a PCV where i turn off the 02.....should still work with a dobeck style box.

Just .02 i had anyone else think about this?

Arctic Thunder · Feb 20, 2013

I don't believe it is an O2 sensor it is a temperature sensor. And it does change the resistance throughout it's range. So the way I understand it, it is constantly changing as the pipe temp changes.

I know some guys have been running a resistor and I suppose that works OK, but to be what AC would say is perfect it needs to see the different amounts of resistance to adjust.

I just installed the Chevy one this weekend. Pretty quick fix, Ill see how long it last. About 1/3 the cost of a cat sensor.

Thunder

05M7 · Feb 20, 2013

Arctic Thunder said:
I don't believe it is an O2 sensor it is a temperature sensor. And it does change the resistance throughout it's range. So the way I understand it, it is constantly changing as the pipe temp changes.

I know some guys have been running a resistor and I suppose that works OK, but to be what AC would say is perfect it needs to see the different amounts of resistance to adjust.

I just installed the Chevy one this weekend. Pretty quick fix, Ill see how long it last. About 1/3 the cost of a cat sensor.

Thunder

it is the same concept as an 02 sensor, works on a 0-5v scale. if your holding your pipe temp continuously it would be constantly the same....for example. im a tree rider constantly wide open or completely off and moving at slow speeds. pipes are wrapped to hold heat. if i tell it to hold a hot map all the time i can more precisely tune my transition points and overall my sled as per a warm running sled. this will be more lean thus cleaning up the bottom end a little.

05M7 · Feb 21, 2013

Ttt.... Let's hear some more input fellas

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rnigro84 · Feb 22, 2013

I thought the sensor was just for emissions at cold start. how was the sensor conversion(Chevy i think you said)? does it fit the same size hole and wire harness?

WyoBoy1000 · Feb 22, 2013

The one thing I have never got an answer on is if it controls the timing, which it very well could and if you tune egts to the same as stock the sleds run the best because you are matching all the right variables. I say leave it

Daltech · Feb 22, 2013

Pipe temp sensor affect the timing. And you would be baffled if you knew how much the temp in the senter section swings when on off trottle.
I say leave it there

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kcdavidak · Feb 22, 2013

sensor

tried a 480ohm resistor in a m1000 and it was a pig cold and ran ok at best when hot. put in new pipe sensor and it ran way better fwiw .

Thunder101 · Feb 23, 2013

Interesting topic I was wondering about this the other day as I was reading some dyno tech articles bc Jim always makes mention of unplugging it to make it go to default setting which is optimal . Wtf Jim I want to know more ! Lol

dynotechjim · Feb 24, 2013

The temp sensor in the pipe center section is critical for best all-around performance. At temps below @1000f the ecu retards timing to increase ex temp to get pipe up to optimal temp more quickly. If you unplug the sensor the ecu seems to default to max timing but it will take a longer time to get the pipe up to optimal temp for max HP plus you get some annoying blinking dash light. Two guys have come to Dyno tune with some sort of inline resistor to replace a fried sensor that eliminates the blinking light but really goofed up the way the engine ran--both guys wound up cutting the resistors out and made way more HP. The sensors aren't cheap but the sleds do run better with them in place.

Frostbite · Feb 24, 2013

Does the Chevy senors provide the exact same data to the ECU as the Cat sensor?

Or is the data being sent to the ECU somewhat skewed by using something other than a factory sensor?

backcountryislife · Feb 24, 2013

Frostbite said:
Does the Chevy senors provide the exact same data to the ECU as the Cat sensor?

It's the exact same part.

Same readings. I saw one graph where the claimed output was different by about 5 degrees... not likely that it's that exact anyhow.

dynotechjim · Feb 24, 2013

The two guys I referred to both had radio shack resistors recommended by someone on the Internet. As I recall those resistors made the engines pig fat, so it's possible that they were fooling the ecu into thinking that the pipe was severely overheating causing it to go into protect-me mode.

dynotechjim · Feb 24, 2013

What is the Chevy temp probe that is the same as the Cat temp probe? Is it more durable or less $, or both?

matt159 · Feb 24, 2013

Use the GM sensor.

I tried 2 different resistors to replace the temp sensor when mine failed... a 560 ohm & a 470 ohm.

I did the 560 1st & it worked great top end, but mid-range was not clean and low end had a high idle and sputtered a little in the trees, but it was rideable.

Then I made one with a 470 just to see if that was the answer. Low end was perfect. Idled at normal rpm, started easier & midrange was clean... but it lost performance above 7500 rpm, so the resistors don't work as well as the sensor.

I bought the GM sensor for $30 & it works perfectly. I keep the 560ohm resistor plug along in case I have a failure on a trip... the 560 works a helluva lot better than a failed temp sensor.

Sensor resistance (ohms) is nearly identical at each temperature according to this chart posted a couple years back.

dynotechjim · Feb 24, 2013

I'll get one of the Chevy temp probes just to have as a spare for the dyno--great deal for $30. Are we lucky enough that the plastic wire connector and steel metric threaded pipe bung connector are correct, or do we just reuse the ones from the defective Cat probe?

matt159 · Feb 24, 2013

dynotechjim said:
I'll get one of the Chevy temp probes just to have as a spare for the dyno--great deal for $30. Are we lucky enough that the plastic wire connector and steel metric threaded pipe bung connector are correct, or do we just reuse the ones from the defective Cat probe?

The probe threads into the bung fine... but the GM connector is not the right one... so you'll have to break out the soldering iron to save yourself $80.

arcticcatwill · Feb 24, 2013

I ran the resistor in my M1000 for a couple hundred miles while waiting for the gm one. Only thing I noticed (after retuning) If you idle and ur pipe temp drops, like coming down a hill, the sled puked for a second getting back on the gas. Low pipe temp even with the motor at operating temp. My EGT's were a lot more consistant though.

Will

Thunder101 · Feb 24, 2013

Sounds like keeping the senser is the best . Good info.

Qreiff · Feb 24, 2013

Would someone post the GM part number please?

getting rid of the 02 sensor "pipe sensor"

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