New to Poo This Year!!

Zone28M7 · Jun 23, 2015

So I opted out of Arctic Cat this year and bought a couple pros. 2013 163 and a 2014 all stock except for a BMP can. I have ridden several pros before but not owned. I'm sure there's several threads on this already but I can't seem to track down a good post on straightforward improvements for the pro. The 2013 is pretty much decked out to the nines and doesn't really need anything.

2013
163 3" track
SLP Stage 5 kit with lightweight crank and 2016 pistons
Fox Evols all around
Pro Motion
Skinz bumpers
Headlight delete
Mohawk skis

The list goes on..but the 2014 is all stock with 40 miles on the motor. Has a bikeman can but not the biggest fan. So, I'm just curious on some fairly inexpensive and most noticeable upgrades or mods for the stock pro. And stuff that will improve reliability. I apologize if the post is repetitive but it can't hurt. Thanks in advance and I look forward to joining the Polaris world!

Ready....GO!

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Toad face killah · Jun 23, 2015

If you haven't ridden them, don't be in a hurry to go spend money. The Pro will impress you first ride and it sounds like they've got the basics. After that, assess what needs to be upgraded and spend a couple bucks. My 2015 pro impresses every time I ride it and puts a huge smile on my face. Why else would I be on snowest on a hot night in June? cause I've already got the itch and counting down until novembr and a few flakes fallng

Zone28M7 · Jun 23, 2015

Toad face killah said:
If you haven't ridden them, don't be in a hurry to go spend money. The Pro will impress you first ride and it sounds like they've got the basics. After that, assess what needs to be upgraded and spend a couple bucks. My 2015 pro impresses every time I ride it and puts a huge smile on my face. Why else would I be on snowest on a hot night in June? cause I've already got the itch and counting down until novembr and a few flakes fallng

I've ridden them quite a bit. Hence why I switched. Haha. But they all have things that could be improved. I'm thinking performance but also reliability.

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Reg2view · Jun 24, 2015

Cheapest on the 14? Check, lube bearings and pivot points, including jackshaft, driveshaft, all skid shafts, steering. Check your QD lower, new bolt, research this and decide if you want to do anything else with it, such as tensioner, gearing change kit. Check clutch wear, clean, align, new springs. Reroute the VES hose. Given you have what looks like an awesome 13 163, I'd likely do this and then just ride the 14 as conditions warrant.

Spending more on the 14 beyond anything QD, clutching (which you'll do with a kit like TKI anyways) and shocks. FWIW.

geo · Jun 26, 2015

Would be a good thread on a season of full mod compared to stock.

You know, is 10 grand extra really worth it?

Zone28M7 · Jun 26, 2015

geo said:
Would be a good thread on a season of full mod compared to stock.

You know, is 10 grand extra really worth it?

What?

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sledheader · Jun 26, 2015

Zone28M7 said:
What?

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I think he meant leave it stock and compare it's capabilities throughout the season to the modded one to determine whether the money spent in mods was really worth it.

RMK935VA · Jun 26, 2015

If it were me I would consider a clutching kit from Carl's for both sleds. It is a definite improvement that will help performance and reliability. They will probably include the bearing that they use on the secondary in place of the washers. I have run their clutching kits for years and I have been very happy with them. They will set it up for your elevation which I assume is pretty high. Lighter weights may be a good idea. Their kits include Belly Buster weights I believe. They also do some work on the sheaves but that requires the clutches. The kit includes their helix too. They run cooler, shift better and belt life is improved. It is a worthwhile investment on a Pro.

Zone28M7 · Jun 26, 2015

sledheader said:
I think he meant leave it stock and compare it's capabilities throughout the season to the modded one to determine whether the money spent in mods was really worth it.

Luckily I wasn't the one that had to spend all the extra dough. Haha. I bought it fully set up and ready to rock. And from a performance standpoint, trust me that stage 5 kit with a 3" track will run circles around the stocker. Reliability is another story though.

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Zone28M7 · Jun 26, 2015

RMK935VA said:
If it were me I would consider a clutching kit from Carl's for both sleds. It is a definite improvement that will help performance and reliability. They will probably include the bearing that they use on the secondary in place of the washers. I have run their clutching kits for years and I have been very happy with them. They will set it up for your elevation which I assume is pretty high. Lighter weights may be a good idea. Their kits include Belly Buster weights I believe. They also do some work on the sheaves but that requires the clutches. The kit includes their helix too. They run cooler, shift better and belt life is improved. It is a worthwhile investment on a Pro.

The 2013 pro with the stage 5 kit already has the Carl's clutching. That's where I bought the sled. It was the mechanic's personal sled. Agreed though, their clutching is phenom. Had it on past sleds.

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Teth-Air · Jun 26, 2015

Make sure the oilers are turned up 3 turns on both sleds. If you are not sure, be diligent and measure each fill and make sure they are using adequate amounts of oil.

RMK935VA · Jun 26, 2015

I didn't notice the Carl's sticker on the side until I looked more closely. Was that Ward's sled? By the way, I don't agree with turning up the oil on the sled. I had a 2011 and a 2013 Pro and I didn't touch the oil system at all. I would check with Carl's on that suggestion. When I have asked them about it in the past, they have not recommended it. My previous sleds did very well on the factory settings.

Reg2view · Jun 26, 2015

If you dig into the pro's, you'll also find threads related to oil caps and coolant bypasses, fix kits, etc.

For the oil cap, you can buy a kit that provides a one-way breather for the cap, drill a hole in the cap, or get a BRP Summit oil cap, if you're so inclined. The "$28 bypass" is a whole 'nuther topic, so are fix kits. Just about every twist on the pro-ride chassis RMK has been explored already, you should at least run into nothing new. You should confirm oil consumption on both - 32:1 is a good target, pros can be very lean from the factory, like 60:1 or worse, 11-13's were particularly lean, tho most 14-15's can be improved. You can overoil them, but it's hard. Adding an oz per gal in the fuel is not a bad operating procedure, too. I'd bet the 13 has been turned up already, but you should confirm by running it. Don't know how much you've dug into them already, or your pro owning buddies have shared.

Regarding clutch kits, likely your 163 has one already, likely SLP's. I have run the Carl's kit on two pros since 11, they do shave the fixed half so the lower circumference is the same angle as the belt sidewall. This could be done to the 163, too, without the Carl's kit. Carl's helix is unique, and runs a team gold spring, primary spring is stock. The downside of the belly busters, and I have a bunch of them, is that significant changes in riding location elevation or adding mods require new weights at about a benjamin a set. If you ride the "same" elevation all the time, it's not a problem. It is a good clutch kit. Adjustable weight kits are out there, too. FWIW.

mountaincat 800 · Jun 26, 2015

Reg2view said:
If you dig into the pro's, you'll also find threads related to oil caps and coolant bypasses, fix kits, etc.

For the oil cap, you can buy a kit that provides a one-way breather for the cap, drill a hole in the cap, or get a BRP Summit oil cap, if you're so inclined. The "$28 bypass" is a whole 'nuther topic, so are fix kits. Just about every twist on the pro-ride chassis RMK has been explored already, you should at least run into nothing new. You should confirm oil consumption on both - 32:1 is a good target, pros can be very lean from the factory, like 60:1 or worse, 11-13's were particularly lean, tho most 14-15's can be improved. You can overoil them, but it's hard. Adding an oz per gal in the fuel is not a bad operating procedure, too. I'd bet the 13 has been turned up already, but you should confirm by running it. Don't know how much you've dug into them already, or your pro owning buddies have shared.

Regarding clutch kits, likely your 163 has one already, likely SLP's. I have run the Carl's kit on two pros since 11, they do shave the fixed half so the lower circumference is the same angle as the belt sidewall. This could be done to the 163, too, without the Carl's kit. Carl's helix is unique, and runs a team gold spring, primary spring is stock. The downside of the belly busters, and I have a bunch of them, is that significant changes in riding location elevation or adding mods require new weights at about a benjamin a set. If you ride the "same" elevation all the time, it's not a problem. It is a good clutch kit. Adjustable weight kits are out there, too. FWIW.

Great advice top to bottom. Things I also had to learn coming from Cat.

die hard poo · Jun 26, 2015

If you ride trees a lot, I highly recommend the 36" a arm kit. One of the best bang for the buck mods you can do. It is much easier to ride in the tight trees and adds reliability since the stock glued arms are super weak. I do recommend getting your shocks shortened by about 1/2" and revalved stiffer to handle the lack of a sway bar if you go with zbroz arms.

As others stated, optimizing your clutching and gearing will give you the best performance and reliability out of any mod. After that IMO it is a gamble if you can get performance out of it while maintaining reliability.

ullose272 · Jun 27, 2015

x2 on 36 front end, i like the alternative impact kit because you keep the sway bar

i put c&a ski rubbers on my stock skis, night and day difference

im short 5'7" on a good day, so i really liked my nxt lvl dan adams bars, and i really like there wiindsheild bag that you cut a hole in the hood, keeps my stuff warm and dry.

also because im short and rarely sit down i have a wrp low rassmusen seat that i like

Zone28M7 · Jun 27, 2015

RMK935VA said:
I didn't notice the Carl's sticker on the side until I looked more closely. Was that Ward's sled? By the way, I don't agree with turning up the oil on the sled. I had a 2011 and a 2013 Pro and I didn't touch the oil system at all. I would check with Carl's on that suggestion. When I have asked them about it in the past, they have not recommended it. My previous sleds did very well on the factory settings.

Yeah I bought it from Ward. Cleanest pro I've seen in person outside of Entz's sleds.

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Zone28M7 · Jun 28, 2015

die hard poo said:
If you ride trees a lot, I highly recommend the 36" a arm kit. One of the best bang for the buck mods you can do. It is much easier to ride in the tight trees and adds reliability since the stock glued arms are super weak. I do recommend getting your shocks shortened by about 1/2" and revalved stiffer to handle the lack of a sway bar if you go with zbroz arms.

As others stated, optimizing your clutching and gearing will give you the best performance and reliability out of any mod. After that IMO it is a gamble if you can get performance out of it while maintaining reliability.

Yeah I'm buying a set of 36" Zbroz and a TKI belt drive with 2.25 gearing from Entz. He's got a bunch of pro parts for sale right now. Just a heads up if anyone is needing parts.

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Indy_500 · Jun 28, 2015

Zone28M7 said:
Yeah I'm buying a set of 36" Zbroz and a TKI belt drive with 2.25 gearing from Entz. He's got a bunch of pro parts for sale right now. Just a heads up if anyone is needing parts.

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Where is he posting his stuff for sale?

Zone28M7 · Jun 28, 2015

He doesn't have any of it listed yet. I think he was going to post it in the next couple weeks or less.

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