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Blowing belts 2009 XF 1k

E
Aug 20, 2011
453
99
28
Soo/Menominee MI
So i recently picked up a 2009 crossfire 1000 sno pro le, and i can honestly say its the funnest sled i have ever ridden. The power is addicting. But I cant really live with it grenading belts ever 125 miles. So the sled has 5600 miles, dd clutch kit and belt adjuster. Anyways so i rode this sled all last weekend, and i had it stick and injector and so it put me behind my group. So i was hauling *** trying to get there to meet them for lunch 95+ mph for sustained times. Well i noticed the sled was pulling higher rpm(I had just adjusted the secondary, and started running 87 OCT) Anyways i slowed down to 80 figured i shouldnt push it. Well i then decided i should slow down a little more and then bang belt grenaded. Chalked it up to running an old belt pretty damn hard, and i should have changed the belt as it was over revving. Well both the primary and secondary where both really hot. Let them cool down and then put the spare used belt on. Beat the heck out of it for probably another 140-165 miles. Then was cruising home at around 80 mph giving it more 90+ and less. No slipping or anything. Then i slowed down a little and got on it some more and bang again! Luckily i had just picked up a gates belt for a spare. Clutches where still both hot.

Any ideas on what would cause this? Ive heard motor mounts, But really couldnt find where to get them. Sled was pulling 73-7400 rpm the whole time. Sorry for the wall of text trying to get this sled fixed so i dont regret buying it all summer.

Figure ill throw in a pic instead of doom and gloom.
10152006_716940448358959_795393031_n.jpg
 
Last edited:

skidooboy

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2007
1,660
330
83
central lower michigan
motor mounts and engine alignment. common issue with all M's but, the 1000 cc is a little harder on them. there are a few threads on the 1000 motor mount issues, upgrades, and adding more mounts to hold the motor in place better.

Ski
 
2
Jun 3, 2013
95
12
8
34
If you have pulled off your secondary you will notice there is a shim on the splined DD shaft in your tool kit if you still have the stock one there should be one or two of the shims aswell. Then you use the alignment bar to see wether to remove or add those shims to align your clutch to the tool.
 
E
Aug 20, 2011
453
99
28
Soo/Menominee MI
Ok so ive hit a snag instead of making a new thread maybe someone could shed some light in here. Are there any tricks to removing the oil tank? I need to check my wiring harness while i have my sled apart.
 
M

minet

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
1,494
143
63
fun

tbodies have to come out to get oil tank out
 
E
Aug 20, 2011
453
99
28
Soo/Menominee MI
Yeah i was trying to tear things apart some more, Anyone know where i should check for electrical shorts? I had a bog/cut out that would recover if i let off the throttle and got on it again or feathered it out. Would get worse when warm. Im gonna pull the tank and make sure the harness isnt rubbing there. I noticed theres a loom from the stator that looked to be rubbing on part of the frame. Last time my sled was started it was throwing a tps code 07. I disabled the throttle safety switch.
 
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