How to cut my 2014 rmk to under 400 lbs

Very possible but not inexpensive.

Cheap???? Take the foam all out.
Get rid of
Bumpers
Foot stirrups
Headlight
Mountain Strap+ bar pad
Scratchers
Sway-Bar
Pipe heat sheild
Gauge
Gas gauge cap .. to vented rush cap
Hood vent Grills and hardware
Carbides
Spare belt
Tool kit pouch
Ves Tubing - plug off valves and pull hoses and hardware
Only use as much oil and gas as necessary @7# per gallon


...
Might not be practical for everyone but I can see 25# of Useless stuff if your only wanting to be light and spend ZERO MONEY !!

Heck why not go a little farther, brake, it'll stop on it's own sooner or later. Kill switch, shuts off by itself when out of gas. Recoil since you're only starting it once a tank use the strap on the clutch method. Ski loops, Pro's don't get stuck, seems silly for them to even be there. Seat, mountain riders don't sit down. Handwarmers, you're already wearing gloves right? Windshield, who's afraid of the wind and needs to be shielded from it? Perc button, we're all such bad a$$es who need reverse? Hyfaxes, seems everyone in this sport has money to burn so just replace the rails every ride. Cooling system, since you have no brake you probably won't be going far enough to need coolant. Snowflap, since we only ride in 3 feet of fresh and have no coolant this part is no longer needed. Just a few more things and you might get a sub 300 pounder

Trade it on a 16:face-icon-small-win

Go work out!!

Is the best weight loss!! Period!!

Sleds are light enough..

Just got to be able to ride them to the full potential

Cheap options are running less oil, remove foam and removing the headlight. After that you would be buying light-weight parts made out of carbon fiber or titanium. You could get it sub 400 for about $1500.

I wanted a lower seat so I trimmed mine down. Free and saved almost 2 lbs if I remember right... Just something free you can do.

amazed at how much the headlight assembly weighed ... I'm sure that Polaris could drop 1 to 1.5 lbs off it without a hiccup.

Cheap, light, and durable. You can have any two. You cannot have all three.

Reg2view said:

Cheap, light, and durable. You can have any two. You cannot have all three.

Click to expand...

Some of the other brands you can get heavy, expensive and weak:face-icon-small-sho

Killer Time Racing said:

Cheap???? Take the foam all out.
Get rid of
Bumpers
Foot stirrups
Headlight
Mountain Strap+ bar pad
Scratchers
Sway-Bar
Pipe heat sheild
Gauge
Gas gauge cap .. to vented rush cap
Hood vent Grills and hardware
Carbides
Spare belt
Tool kit pouch
Ves Tubing - plug off valves and pull hoses and hardware
Only use as much oil and gas as necessary @7# per gallon


...
Might not be practical for everyone but I can see 25# of Useless stuff if your only wanting to be light and spend ZERO MONEY !!

Click to expand...

Mountain Horse posted this recently here on Snowest. I am not trying to take the credit, just passing on some info posted by others.

If you are running a turbo or other setup on a 2013/14 RMK that has the headlights deleted... I HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you install load resistors if you are not running headlights.

Polaris, new for 2013, now has combined the voltage regulators for the ecu and lighting/charging coils. The housing is shared, But the two regulators are separate components inside. The connector for the Lighting/charging coil remains the same.... and is separate from the ECU connector for the regulator.

For a stock sled... this is a good setup.

Start to mod the electrical system beyond what Polaris has designed... you may cause some problems.

These regulators are "shunt" regulators ... whatever current is NOT used...gets "dumped" as heat.

Now... if that heat is "Dumped" into the main ECU regulator component of the now Shared main regulator... then you could fail that unit (dead sled) and/or the ECU at the same time (dead sled).

If you "fry" the lighting regulator on a 2013/14... you have a good chance of "frying" the ECU portion of that regulator as well... which runs the risk of "frying" the ECU...

This will not be a problem with an unmodified (stock) 2013/14 sled WITH headlights...but could cause you no end of greif on a modded 2013 with no headlights

On a 2011/12 PRO RMK, if you "failed" the lighting/charging regulator... the only things that you would see would be non operational lights and hand/thumb warmers and, if equipped with ES, possibly a "cooked" battery.
Sure, there are people that have run their 13's without headlights already... But are you willing to take that risk that did not exist in the 2011/12 PRO's???

IMO... In that situation where you are not running a headlight load... Simply disconnect the AC 3-wire Rubber connector on the stock combined and run an inexpensive separate regulator that is well heat-sinked to aluminum.

Use Polaris #4010794 that will simply plug into the factory harness still on the 2013's. This was used on Edge sleds equipped with Electric start and all the 2011/12 PRO RMK's.

It WILL need to be mounted to metal that will allow transfer of heat from the VR.

That way, if you your lighting/charging VR fails because you have low load on the unit or thermal load... It does not take out your other regulator.

The price from Polaris is about the same as the price from WPS (#12-3081) or HiPerf (#174-202)

This is what the voltage regs look like from the EDGE sleds and the 2010/11/12 PRO RIDE sleds


http://www.hiperf.com/acatalog/174202.jpg


NOTE: This does not apply to the 2011/12 units.

couch said:

amazed at how much the headlight assembly weighed ... I'm sure that Polaris could drop 1 to 1.5 lbs off it without a hiccup.

Click to expand...

You think the Pro hood/headlight is heavy, go pull the hood off of a Doo, Cat, or Viper. The Pro hood is the lightest AND also the easiest to remove.