Do I need a fix kit?

beeze455 · Mar 5, 2015

My buddy and I both have 2013 PRO RMK. He has 130 PSI on both sides and I have 125 and 130 PSI. Now these are both 2013 sleds, so my understanding is we may not need a fix kit. If these where 11 or 12 sleds, we would be doing it. We are both debating on what to do. Can we depend on just compression numbers? Can we check without opening up the engine?

A local shop who has done plenty of rktek rev2 quoted us 2500 for everything--kit, reeds, clutching etc... Seems like a good price with his experience, but may make more sense to just spring check.

Please do not turn this into a debate on what kit to get or post about 11 and 12 sleds. The 13+'s are different and not even sure if needed.

BigBlueEdge · Mar 5, 2015

When my dealer inspected my 2011 for trade they found it had 123 and 125. He said anything over 120 is considered solid and perfect. I wouldn't worry about a 5 psi diff between the two sides.

Rob

Old Scud-doo · Mar 5, 2015

After you get about 1200 miles on it, take the top off and check your rings and pistons. I am running MtnTek fix kit now but I have not seen a sled around 1200 miles that didnt' already have knifing pistons and chipping rings. Still running but it only gets worse.

sled_guy · Mar 5, 2015

From my experience compression isn't the best indicator of the condition of the motor. Do you need a fix kit? I don't know, but when you get up around 1500+ miles (1200 is a fine number too as Old Skud-doo says) then you need to check the pistons close. You can pull the exhaust valves and run the pistons up and down and get a decent look at the exhaust side.

That is for piston scuffing/ring issues.

As for the bottom of the cylinders braking off... yeah, no way to inspect that without taking the motor apart and that happens to 13-14 motors too.

sled_guy

Old Scud-doo · Mar 5, 2015

sled_guy said:
As for the bottom of the cylinders braking off... yeah, no way to inspect that without taking the motor apart and that happens to 13-14 motors too.

sled_guy

I think that the 13 through 15 model years didn't have that problem. Still have the ring and piston issues but I don't think I ever heard of a 13, 14, or 15 with a broken skirt.

beeze455 · Mar 5, 2015

Me and my buddy both have 2200 - 2300 miles, so we missed the boat on 1500 mile check. LOL.

I was under the same impression with the 13+ pro rmks. I though the 13+ would just lose compression. Not sure though.

beeze455 · Mar 5, 2015

I should also state that we both bought these sleds new. He followed every single step on break-in and uses klotz oil. I broke mine in hard and have only run castrol gtx--switching to legend because the castrol really stinks when stuck. We are also in ethanol country. He added oil in his tank for while.

sled_guy · Mar 6, 2015

Maybe the 13+ is better, but it still breaks cylinders. Seems like with every "change" they get a little more durable.

sled_guy

sledneck_03 · Mar 6, 2015

my 08 700 had 5000 miles and couldnt pull over 7900. had perfect compression as well. the new owner rebuilt it and back to 8100.

friend was having same issues with his 2011 and put a mtntk rebuild kit in and back to revving.

dont trust the compression.

beeze455 · Mar 6, 2015

I have not heard of any 13's with this piston skirt problem. Its always the "I know of a guy" or "my buddies friend". Everybody knows the previous years had issues and I only care about the 13+ sleds. The more I read and directly ask people it seems the 13's just lose compression over time.

Jaynelson · Mar 6, 2015

Not sure you "need a fix kit" necessarily - but generally speaking, some new pistons wouldn't be the worst idea - based solely on mileage. Even just stock ones. I don't think anyone would disagree on that.

m8vohkman · Mar 6, 2015

What is the difference between a fix kit and s new top end? Just curious.

beeze455 · Mar 23, 2015

Another friends 2013 RMK with 2600 miles and using the same gauge is 129 on both sides. Carls Cycle also posted they use stock 15 pistons on rebuilds with no issues. 13+ sleds look to be fine, so I will hold off.

Old Scud-doo · Mar 23, 2015

Went from running a Team Tied at 71/57 and red/black spring to 75/59 and red/black by just adding the MtnTek fix kit. Really it's Teflon coated pistons with a taller skirt and a shim to compensate for the added height. Seems to run really, really strong.

So if rebuilding, I would go with the MtnTek or similar design.

Sheetmetalfab · Mar 23, 2015

Old Scud-doo said:
Went from running a Team Tied at 71/57 and red/black spring to 75/59 and red/black by just adding the MtnTek fix kit. Really it's Teflon coated pistons with a taller skirt and a shim to compensate for the added height. Seems to run really, really strong.

So if rebuilding, I would go with the MtnTek or similar design.

I have seen similar results.

Makes a better gerbil wheel.

GoHiSK1 · Mar 24, 2015

I am 1 of the people that have had excelent results with Fix Kit and also the RK TEK Rev I kit.
My 2011 RMK with 1300 miles was very Lazy compared to our 2013 sleds (same model and track leangth)
Installed the RKT TEK drop in kit with New Cylinder . Had to calibrate primary to same specs as the 2013 sleds . Meaning had to add 3+grams to each clutch to keep the Max RPM at 8300 + - 50 RPM
The 2011 was always 4 ,5, 6 lengths behind in controlled drag races !
After the Drop In Kit install sleds where equal in same length of races.:face-icon-small-hap
Similar results with different Brands of FIX Kits in the 2008 - 2010 800cc Polaris engines.

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Do I need a fix kit?

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