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Nytro Tether

M

modsledr

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
2,380
631
113
Western WA
I want to replace the bar mounted kill switch with a tether...anyone done this?

Who's tether did you use?

Thanks,
modsledr
 
M

modsledr

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
2,380
631
113
Western WA
Moto-PsychO,

Thanks for the link, but I was hoping to eliminate the stock kill switch completely. The link is for wiring in-line and retaining the stock kill switch.

modsledr
 

ruffryder

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Lifetime Membership
Aug 14, 2002
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Moto-PsychO,

Thanks for the link, but I was hoping to eliminate the stock kill switch completely. The link is for wiring in-line and retaining the stock kill switch.

modsledr

Did you ever figure this out? I did it tonight, TORS gone, tether working and no kill switch.

Remove the plastic with gage and main ignition switch (thingy with key in it:p)

Main harness connections (lower right)
IMG_2767.jpg


The upper steering shaft mount has a bunch of wire looms there. Take the corrugated tubing off the wires that go to the handlebars. There are a couple of looms there in plastic, pick the one that has 4 or so wires in it and feels more defined when pinched. The other one that looks similar has only 2 wires , each in its own sheathing so it doesn't feel the same.

sheathing cut open
IMG_2776.jpg


Cut the sheathing open. The Brown and Brown/White wires from the sled to the handlebars go to the kill switch. Cut the wires and attach you tether to the side coming from the sled. Note that I used a normally closed tether from arctic cat.

If you want to keep the kill switch, just cut one of the brown wires and splice the tether in there to both sides. This will allow either the kill or the tether to open the circuit and shut the sled down.

FYI - Note that there is also the Black/Blue and Black/Yellow wires. These are for the TORS system. Black/Yellow comes from the computer, Black/Blue goes to ground when the throttle completes the circuit.

Tether Connected (normally closed tether)
IMG_2791.jpg


Finished
IMG_2795.jpg

IMG_2793.jpg


To defeat the TORS, you need to change the configuration at the main junction for the wires. All you do is take the white single connector from the sled and connect it to the black single connector to the sled. They should fit without any cutting or anything. Thanks to TY for this one.

Wires to reconnect
IMG_2783.jpg


So you just connect the bottom two single wires together (one black connector, one white connector). I taped up the top two as a reminder that it is not stock.

Hope this helps someone.
 
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ruffryder

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Last edited:

ruffryder

Well-known member
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Aug 14, 2002
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fixed info, all is working correctly now.

*Update* I have replaced the arctic cat tether with a gunner tether mounted to the bars. The gunner is a much better unit, easier to use, and able to mount in an accessible location.
 
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R

robertyoke

Well-known member
Dec 26, 2007
409
71
28
colorado
Why do you want to eliminate the TORS system?


because it sucks a$$.
sometimes it would act up when you dont expect it to. you smash the flipper expecting take-off and tors kicks in and you end up over the f-ing handle bars....then you get back on your sled to find when you try to go your stuck!!!

also it wont keep the sled from running when its upside down and thats a great way too get your oil changed, about 30 seconds and it pumps it all out for you!
 

ruffryder

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Aug 14, 2002
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Well, like others on here, my gunner tether failed. Got the nice smokey smell and it stopped working. What a piece of crap. Back to the arctic cat style....

Gunner, YOU SUCK!:mad: Oh well, at least my soldering and heat shrink tubing skills are improving. :rolleyes:
 
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MTdream

Well-known member
Nov 28, 2007
2,548
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yeah I went with inline, and the Ulmer Racing one...have not had an issue with it at all...can still do the TORS delete etc.
 
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