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Adding Oil or Adjusting Oiler on 14 Pro

I just purchased a new 14 Pro and see there are several comments with people adding oil or turning up the oilers. Does this really need to be done, and if so I would prefer to just a add a some at each fill up; how much per tank would be adequate? Or leave it alone?

Any suggestions would be great!

Have yet to ride one of these new Pros and can't wait to get home from work to hit the hills! A friend has cautioned me to be careful because i have been happily riding a RMK 900 for many years and figures i will be falling off it for the first while?

Maybe one of the few who put many miles on one of the 900's and the thing run flawless!
 

mountainhorse

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Fairly simple, the factory cannot run the oil on the sleds richer nor can they tell the dealerships to turn up the oil on the sleds. All the 2 stroke sled mfgs are running leaner and leaner oil mixures.

This has been covered in a lot of other threads... but, in summar...

Running richer on oil, within reason, will not have any negative effects on the engine or performance. Positive affects, longer piston life, better ring sealing, better bottom end lubrication etc etc.

Adding to the tank (aka premix) will not benefit the bottom end or the lower skirt lubrication as the fuel is injected into the transfer port just prior to the mixture entering the cylinder for combustion.

Any tampering with base settings might void a warranty if the dealer/factory gets wind of in the unlikely circumstance that you'll have an issue.


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Pro-8250

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Fairly simple, the factory cannot run the oil on the sleds richer nor can they tell the dealerships to turn up the oil on the sleds. All the 2 stroke sled mfgs are running leaner and leaner oil mixures.

This has been covered in a lot of other threads... but, in summar...

Running richer on oil, within reason, will not have any negative effects on the engine or performance. Positive affects, longer piston life, better ring sealing, better bottom end lubrication etc etc.

Adding to the tank (aka premix) will not benefit the bottom end or the lower skirt lubrication as the fuel is injected into the transfer port just prior to the mixture entering the cylinder for combustion.

Any tampering with base settings might void a warranty if the dealer/factory gets wind of in the unlikely circumstance that you'll have an issue.


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Any tampering with base settings might void a warranty if the dealer/factory gets wind of in the unlikely circumstance that you'll have an issue.

Excellent point! In my 2011 and 2013 extended warranty disclosures. It clearly states that tampering with any factory settings can void the warranty. Even turning up the oil.:face-icon-small-sho
My guess is 2014 is no different.
 

mountainhorse

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Dry case

eric, are you saying that none of the injected fuel makes it into the bottom end of this engine?

That is what I'm saying, yes.

The crankcase is dry of fuel, oil flows from the oil injection points in the case and moves up the transfer ports.

I'm a strong believer that the "right" oil is important... It must be able to move easily in a relatively dry engine case and up through the transfers to keep everything happy inside. More than just simple criteria of lubricity these days.

My 2 cents











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