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Who put a ultra/xcr in a XC/RMK?

Norway

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Ultra/xcr in a XC/RMK? Now Project!

Putting XCR based big-bore into a Gen II now with 6 mount motorplate, no holes predrilled so wondering if I really have to space out the left jackshaft bearing, or if I could just move the engine 1/2" to the right? Any concerns I'm missing?

Tried search. Help would be great.

Thanks

RS

Edit: got some info, now I'm posting my progress in this thread with pics :beer;
 
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B
Nov 26, 2007
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XCR in Gen II

Norway:
I have done this in a 01 RMK chassis with the same plate that you are using. To answer your question; depends on a couple of things. I used the stock air box and to get it to clear the steering post correctly you need to shift the motor. Also the pipes made for XCR Gen II need that extra room to prevent melting the belly pan and hood on the chain case side. Polaris makes a half inch spacer to shift the driven over to line up with the primary. All Ultras, Storms and XCRs came with them. Part number 5131443 SPACER,BRG,JACKSHAFT $43.63.
Also you will need to space the engine up 1/2 inch as well to get the water pump to clear the front motor mount. I cut up the original Polaris engine straps because they made good drill templates too.
Gary

DSCN4284.JPG
 

Norway

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Thanks Gary,

I have the spacer from the wedge chassi I used first. Just dont want to do it if I dont have to. The jackshaft is not the same on ultra vs. rmk/xc, theirs is longer but this probably wont matter much.

Dont use airbox, have kickass filters so there is alot of room to slide anegine back and forth. Might be kinda close on the right side between pipes and bellypan/hood.
Think I'm gonna put the motor with pipes and carbs w/filters in there and let it sit on the plate. Will look out for steering vs waterpump. Thanks.

What cc clutch distance did you use?

RS
 
B
Nov 26, 2007
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XCR in genII

That is another variable. My chassis has a roll so I run an edge belt (11.5) center. Without the roll you should be able to run the regular XCR belt (12"). set it in using that center and see how it fits.
You are correct that the Gen II shaft is shorter but I just had my shaft machined and use the old style bearing that uses a lock collar. That way you can just lock it down anywhere you want on the shaft. You will need more spacers inside the driven for the bolt to pull up against... again no big deal. If you do decide to move it to the left, I would encourage you to put the spacer behind the driven and move the bearing out. In 96 when when the ultra came out that was actually a service bulletin. Without the support of the bearing moved out they would flex the shaft and eat belts.
Gary
 
B
Nov 26, 2007
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XCR in GenII

I run the stock air box so I can seal against the hood and keep the powder out. Also you will find that the triple makes lots of under hood heat due to 3 pipes. Filters will pull that heat into the carbs and it won't run right especially when working it hard. Also the flow through the hood causes a low pressure behind the cylinders again causing jet calibration problems even blasting down a trail. It may be fine in you application but that is one of the reasons for the vent lines on the carbs being plugged into the air box.
Gary
 

Norway

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Great input Gary, apreciate it.

Will run the secondary snugg into the bearing, figured the reason there (flex).

Curious to see on the under hood heat. Use heat wrap on the pipes for faster and more consistent heat in the pipes, might help a little.

Been thinking about making something to seal up against the hood and get power from there, yes. But did not know there was a low-pressure behind the cylinders?? Serious intel on that?

Took out the old engine now and been fitting the engine mount plate. Took away front cooler for track-clearence since I will be putting a big cooler in the rear.
Rune
 

Norway

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Cooler?

BB454: What size cooler did you use? I want to use a 40" U-cooler at the rear of the tunnel only. Wonder if it's enough..

RS

Edit: and btw, do you have any info on the setup you ran? Carbs? Clutching/gearing?
 

Scott

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Rune, talk to h2otoyz, he had an XCR800 in a GenII rmk chassis too.
 
B
Nov 26, 2007
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cooler

RS:
I used all of the stock coolers because I rolled the chain case; plenty of clearance up front even for my 2.4.
I am at 6-9k feet so my set up is probably leaner than most. I have SLP Pipes and heads. With a stock air box. If you are lower and running socks you will be much richer on the jetting than I am but here it is.
Mains 330 straight across and 60 pilots, these are SLP's pipe recomendations that you can find on their web page. When I was running the team roller; I couldn't get the run RPMs with an almond round spring. I started with 10-62 weights and went down to 10-58s. Still couldn't get them so I went to a team green primary. Was almost there and then decided to go back to the button secondary. That made the difference. Runs at 8600 now. So green team with 10-58 weights and the R-12 helix in the secondary. I geared up to 20/41 and it is still fine on belt heat. I changed to the black sliders in the carbs too. Air jets and starter jets are stock.

Gary
 
B
Nov 26, 2007
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Cooler

The triple makes lots of heat as mentioned but I think you will be fine with the u cooler. Invest in a set of scratchers just in case and if you ride on the hard pack. Also don't forget the snow flap, it is part of the cooling system too. Helps throw snow up on the cooler. Usually drops engine temp 15-20 degrees.
Gary
 

Angermangement890

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I did this swap as well, I found I needed to clearance my motor plate so the steering assembly would clear. Other than that, thanks to BB454 my swap went pretty easily.

I have a bunch of the parts needed to complete the swap including a predrilled motor mount plate, airbox, torque stop, Dyno port pipes etc.
 
B
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We put a 1060 storm in a 98 700 chassis

we used the stock motor mounts and attached them to another 3/16 flat 7075 aluminum plate which was bolted directly to the storm case. We used to laugh about the 200lb motor, as it was heavy as a small block V-8. LOL
 

Norway

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Gitr done!

Ok, I'm smack in the middle of this now.
Have cleaned out engine bay and tunnel.
Done some measuring, marked and drilled the holes in the motor-plate (fingers X-ed..)

Found I could actually put the motor on the plate without a spacer, would just have to grind down the front right motormount bolt 1/4".
Will space up about 10mm anyway because of the pipes. Dont fancy cutting of the shock towers of the bellypan or refit the pipes.

Will put the spacer behind the jackshaft bearing like std Ultra, also this to avoid refitting pipes (hit the hood and bellypan now if I dont use spacer).

Started on tunnelwork.... Got to BIG plates of 5mm alu and have started cutting, no watercutting near here. They are some heavy SOB's to start with but I'm looking forward to loosing some of that weight as my cutting and drilling gets done. VE is my inspiration;)

Holes for front M-10 arm mounting are drilled in the tunnel, as per instructions from Curt at Fastrax. Hope I did it right..:rolleyes:

Pics coming.
 

DanB

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RS:
I used all of the stock coolers because I rolled the chain case; plenty of clearance up front even for my 2.4.
I am at 6-9k feet so my set up is probably leaner than most. I have SLP Pipes and heads. With a stock air box. If you are lower and running socks you will be much richer on the jetting than I am but here it is.
Mains 330 straight across and 60 pilots, these are SLP's pipe recomendations that you can find on their web page.

Gary

In my 900 Ultra BB, I ran 280 mains last year, switched to 270's this year and I typically ride from 8K and up. I've never run larger than 310 and that was when running the timing at around 14 degrees @8000 RPM when the motor was first put into service several years ago. What I have found is that these motors like more timing. The retarded spark was allowing fuel to burn in the pipe and increasing EGT temps. Over time I bumped it up to 19 degrees and realized incremental improvements at each step. I tried 20 degrees once but found no improvement, and since there are times when I can ride around my home at 7K I backed it off a little. Yes, I realize mine is a 900 and a little larger bore than the XCR's but it's not that much larger. Also, I am running the XCR flat-slides and not the stock round slide 38's. The needle I'm using is a 9DGI-60 which are stock in the 600 RMK (small block) in 2003'. This needle has worked well and I actually get decent over-all fuel economy. Anyway, the point here is that with some of the rich mixtures I see being run in these motors I can't help but wonder about timing.
 

Norway

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RE: timing

DanB:

Preciate your thoughts on timing, will have to mess around with that some.

Since 4500 feet is about max for me I'll have to take that into account.
Running 44 Lectrons and RAD-valves so on this one I cant use the needle.
Have a -96 stocker now though, gonna sell it so will have to make it run good.

Rune
 

Norway

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Chopping

Then some chopping!

DSC00006.JPG

And some alu plates:

DSC00007.JPG

5mm = heavy! But will do some creative cutting and drilling, so hold on for some measured weights.
Have a pallet weight at work so will get weights on engine, track, suspension and complete sled.
 
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