What are the 18 and newer hoods had out of? What would you use to glue a crack? PVC? ABS?
What are these hoods made out of
- Thread starter Rixster
- Start date
T
I would guess you're closer to abs than pvc. J.b. weld might be your best bet
I've NEVER had luck with jb weld, no matter how I try to set that crap up it's just never worked for me... maybe all they sell is expired sticks of it up here in canada, IDK.
That said, a good Plastic weld like the permatex branded stuff I've had good luck with on plastics. It bonds to it really well and is strong.
That said, a good Plastic weld like the permatex branded stuff I've had good luck with on plastics. It bonds to it really well and is strong.
Metton never heard of it but it sounds like good stuff
www.metton.com
METTON Liquid Molding Resin
METTON is a tough and durable engineering plastic material used to produce large or thick molded parts for many diversified applications including heavy trucks, heavy equipment and industrial products.
I have glued several cracks on hoods, a few where the cables broke the hoods on older M series. Go to an auto parts store and get some fiberglass cloth/mesh and quick cure epoxy. Sand the affected hood area with 100 grit or something course. Put down a layer of quick cure epoxy (5 to 15 min), then put the fiberglass mesh over that...push the mesh into the glue so that it saturates the cloth a bit (use a credit card or equivalent), then put a layer of epoxy on top of the mesh and force into the mesh with plastic card and smooth out. And consider drilling a small hole (1/16") at leading edge of crack to stop it from growing more...do this first if you do.
I don't know the best way to repair the hood, but if using fiberglass, we used to use cheap paint brushes to dab resin on the part. Then place a layer of fiberglass cloth over that and use the paint brush to tap the cloth down into the resin and when the cloth is laying smooth, then wet the paint brush with resin and dab it onto the cloth. You want just enough resin on the cloth so that you don't see any dry patches on the cloth. Extra resin on the cloth doesn't make the part any stronger.
Fiberglass cloth doesn't conform well to sharp corners. They also make fiberglass strand mat which is easier to work into and around corners and edges.
Depending upon how much hardener you add to the resin and how quickly you work, you may be able to add a few layers of fiberglass before it begins to set.
Acetone works excellent to remove uncured resin from hands and tools.
Maybe talk to an Auto Body Supply Store to see what they would recommend. Also, on some plastic parts, there are codes which indicate what type of plastic it is. Like my dirt bike air scoop has PP on it and that stands for polyproylene. I believe it has a recycle number of 5. Looking thru my recycles I noticed a lot of things are 5 so I'm going to use a piece of a number 5 recycle item which is approx the same color to plastic weld my scoop. Can't say how well it will work, just an idea.
Fiberglass cloth doesn't conform well to sharp corners. They also make fiberglass strand mat which is easier to work into and around corners and edges.
Depending upon how much hardener you add to the resin and how quickly you work, you may be able to add a few layers of fiberglass before it begins to set.
Acetone works excellent to remove uncured resin from hands and tools.
Maybe talk to an Auto Body Supply Store to see what they would recommend. Also, on some plastic parts, there are codes which indicate what type of plastic it is. Like my dirt bike air scoop has PP on it and that stands for polyproylene. I believe it has a recycle number of 5. Looking thru my recycles I noticed a lot of things are 5 so I'm going to use a piece of a number 5 recycle item which is approx the same color to plastic weld my scoop. Can't say how well it will work, just an idea.
I had body shop use same stuff they use on plastic bumpers for my axys panel. Has more then a full season and still looks perfect. They put staples on inside, mesh and some sorta epoxy. All you can see is a hair line crack from outside.
Kinda scary on the cat if it’s part of the intake tract and something ever did come loose though.
Kinda scary on the cat if it’s part of the intake tract and something ever did come loose though.
F
The heated staples for plastics is a good mechanical lock. I haven't used it on powersports parts, but have used it on several car parts. I was introduced to it by the guys at the hot rod shop that was in the same building as our military projects. heat the staple, push into the plastic, as its cooling you slightly twist it, then pull the staple gun out/off leaving the staple, cut the ends off and epoxy over it.
Rixter ,I am pretty sure it is PPM poly propelyne metton fiberglass won't stick well to it ,you need to use a body shop 2 part epoxy for PPM /PPO etc duramix and sem along with fusor make the correct product . The product itself isn't to expensive 40-60$ for a 2 part tube but the gun to dispense it is over $100 for a good quality one , hopefully you know a body shop owner or tech who might let you borrow one !!
