Weird slip from clutch side
- Thread starter Cutterx
- Start date
Track? Belt can slip if water or snow get in there, it doesnt take much.
That cover helps with air flow/cooling.
Clutch calibration is the biggest effect on belt heat. Venting is just a bandaid if clutching is way off.
What do you run for clutching, what sled and how much boost?
Clutch calibration is the biggest effect on belt heat. Venting is just a bandaid if clutching is way off.
What do you run for clutching, what sled and how much boost?
T
TreeThrasher
Well-known member
Are you sure you aren't getting an actual knock code? Overweighted clutching, a turbo and lean midrange af on the trail could cause deto.
23g with anything but the stock 40 helix I'd bet is too much.
23g with anything but the stock 40 helix I'd bet is too much.
C
Cutterx
Member
Really wanna figure this out. Have some venting panels coming for both sides of the panels but feel like something is still off. Went for a rip yesterday & at clicker 3 it spooled up really fast but would overrev even up hills with pow. On 2 was ok but again feels really heavy at low throttle. Once it gets going it is ok but the belt did still slip occasionally. Gonna try putting a stock helix back in. Running a Trask now. Please if anyone else could list what they have done with there clutching would be much appreciated.
Currently running the spring that comes with the Silber, 23g pin weight, Trask Helix & 21/49 gearing.
Currently running the spring that comes with the Silber, 23g pin weight, Trask Helix & 21/49 gearing.
N
nuttyn01
Well-known member
clutching
You need to get rid of the plastic clutch cover shroud and put a prp/prp or green skidoo spring in the secondary. I would guess that the trask secondary helix is steeper. That coupled with the stock xm secondary spring will give you very little belt squeze in the secondary.
You need to get rid of the plastic clutch cover shroud and put a prp/prp or green skidoo spring in the secondary. I would guess that the trask secondary helix is steeper. That coupled with the stock xm secondary spring will give you very little belt squeze in the secondary.
C
Cutterx
Member
So you think I should try a stock Helix with green Skidoo spring? Or just change the spring that's in there now? Guess its really hard to say which side is slipping. Primary or Secondary. Everyone says to leave the shroud on cause its some special design. I think I should take it off as well.
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nuttyn01
Well-known member
clutching
Get rid of the shroud! It is hard to say on the helix as I am not sure what the trask helix angle is(there are no numbers on the helix?). I would just start with the spring.
Get rid of the shroud! It is hard to say on the helix as I am not sure what the trask helix angle is(there are no numbers on the helix?). I would just start with the spring.
C
Cutterx
Member
It is bone try in there. It just slips for a second, makes a weird sound then bites right back. Does get pretty hot though. Will call GVP tomorrow & see what springs they have in stock & the Helix number. Tried looking for it on there but can't see it.
Sucks cause my buddy's RMK that I did the Silber on as well has no clutching issues at all. He's actually stay quite cool. They don't have any type of crazy cover like Doo. Just all open.
Sucks cause my buddy's RMK that I did the Silber on as well has no clutching issues at all. He's actually stay quite cool. They don't have any type of crazy cover like Doo. Just all open.
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Any idea what that helix is? A lot of guys just run the 43/47 from the '09-'11 Summits with pur/pur sec spring, 200/290 primary spring and whatever pin weight necessary....seems to work decent.
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nuttyn01
Well-known member
Some things sound suspect to me. 8# and 23 grams of weight? I can understand this if you can tell me what ramps are in the primary. If the tip is aggressive then I can see where you could pull that weight at 8#. The other thing in curious about is what length of pins do you have in there to get your 23 grams. I've seen it before if the long pins are installed for the needed weight, the extra length of those pins will hit the governor cup and this could cause an immediate slip in the clutches. The interference with the long pins is causing a mechanical limit inside the primary and not allowing full shift on the ramps. With your gearing and track length that thing should go full shift in both clutches. Take the primary clutch off and turn the governor cup over and on either side of the ramps you might have a half moon shape dimpled into the inner casting where the pins have impacted. Should be right about where the eccentric bolts go through the governor cup.
C
Cutterx
Member
GVP says the Helix is specially made for them & has no numbers. Recommended that I try the Skidoo spring number 417127062 in the secondary. Does it sound familiar to any one? Looks like its a 225/300. Not sure if I should just put the stock Helix back in with it.
Using the stock ramps. To get 23g pin weight I added the biggest metal piece that came in the kit & the medium size set screw. It doesn't stick out at all. Engagement is smooth.
Using the stock ramps. To get 23g pin weight I added the biggest metal piece that came in the kit & the medium size set screw. It doesn't stick out at all. Engagement is smooth.
The -062 is the purple/purple spring. I agree that is the only spring to use. If you are currently using the stock XM sec spring, that is likely a big part of the problem...too soft.
C
Cutterx
Member
That spring sure is a lot bigger then stock. Can't wait to test it out tomorrow. Did some swiss cheesing of the clutch cover as well. Saw another post where someone left just enough to hold the belt & wanted to do the same. Would suck to carry that around. Hopefully helps. Still waiting on the vents though. Should be here any day.
