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Watercross

Polarisrocks

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Anyone still involved in watercross? We had our local race this last weekend in Ione WA. it was a great turn out, 50% sank their sleds at least once. This race is just a straight line, I cant imagine how many more sinks there would be if this was mixed stuff with ovals. I have a few q's for anyone that's willing to share some answers about set ups, mainly speed. We cant seem to break the 65-70 mph even with a built 800 xcr. Pm me your contact info and I'll respond...

Thanks
 
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Is this a drag race from a standing start off the shore? How long is the race?

What track are you currently running?

The longer the track and taller the lugs = Quicker acceleration and gets on top of the water quicker BUT it will quickly loose top speed from all the drag the track creates. A shorter, narrower, less lug track will not come up to speed as quick but it will keep gaining speed and have a higher top speed.

Its depends on what your goal is, if your just looking for top speed go with a 121 .50-.750" lug track with a low track pitch. If you want an all around good track a 136 1.-1.25 track would be a good choice. The camo rip-saw track would be a good option. Eric
 
We are looking for 75-80 mph. We have tried the shallow tracks and speed was slower by 10 mph on the top end. The best ratio has been 136 1 1/2 for top end speed. It must take BIG power to go that fast on the water. Our turbo m1000 sled was slower than the set up water sled. The Race is taking off from the beach 10 ft from the water, race across the river 600 ft.
The water on the belts is the killer, Could a guy cut really small v groves in the clutches to remove water and avoid the slipping? We are even considering a street bike motor on a few lbs.
 
It doesnt take that big of HP. Its been YEARS since I played on the water but I doubt much has changed. I could run in the 90's mph range with a pro stock 800 triple that was making around 190hp and I was running a 136 closed window camo speed track.

If your belt is getting ANY water on it you have work to do. Everything needs sealed off, clear caulk and tape is your friend. Put a bright light under your closed hood and turn off the lights in the shop. Any place you see light shinning through needs sealed. Eric
 
We did just that, light and lots of clear silicone. We don't run a hood because its a huge heat box/trap and actually slows down the sled. Maybe the direction we need to go is lighter & more power. Maybe some nitrous is in order :face-icon-small-ton
 
I ran a hood but did leave some venting at the back of the hood.

The main places to seal off the water is the belly pan, radius rods, tie rods and then at the front of the bulkhead where the track is throwing water forward. Eric
 
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