Uneven hyfax wear

[N49ATV]

Hello,

I have a 2000 RMK 700 136” I bought years ago (probably 12 or more). Went ditch banging for a few years couple times a winter then kids happened. 4 kids later I fired the old girl up and took her out this winter to the mountains. I had it gone through a few years ago at the dealer, and they replaced the hyfax. At the time it had about 350-400mi on it. I now have 1083.5mi.

Anyway, I noticed from the sides before last ride, I had uneven hyfax wear. But sled camp had to come out, so I rode.

Now I pulled the hyfax tonight and right by the bend, where the front coil over attaches to the rails, I have no hyfax. The rest is good. It tapers from that point.

Any idea what causes this? I’m assuming my front coil over is too stiff, or setup wrong. This creating excessive force at that point. The back is softer and doesn’t rebound the whole way. It’s an old sled that sat for years. Anyway looking to patch it all up as a backup sled for this year, or for when the wife may come, she can ride whatever sled I buy for this year, and I’ll go work my bag off on the 136”.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[volcano buster]

Wear doesn't look out of the ordinary. These are designed as consumables, so replace and monitor often.

I would check to make sure the rails have the same profile. If one was bent slightly it could speed up wear on the hyfax.

 

[N49ATV]

Wear doesn't look out of the ordinary. These are designed as consumables, so replace and monitor often.

I would check to make sure the rails have the same profile. If one was bent slightly it could speed up wear on the hyfax.

Okay. I just thought it was pretty uneven. The other areas don’t even appear to be worn at all. I didn’t consider my season last year as that many trips. The guys I ride with put over 2000km on their sled. Guess I need 2-3 hyfax a season? Though I don’t plan to ride this sled this year, looking to upgrade, but also going to Panama for medical, so upgrading on a self set budget.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[HECKS]

Typical wear when you run your track on the loose side.

 

[volcano buster]

Those older sleds seldom had scratchers since they had more bogey wheels. In low snow conditions they can eat hyfax in a short distance. I usually see more wear on the left side as that is my preferred side since I'm right handed (if that makes a difference).

 

[Reg2view]

Skid pressure and track porpoising on the rails as it comes off the driver and rear wheels, and in front/between skid idlers. Tracks actually bunch below the drivers if too loose, which can also lead to track stab. Differences between rails could be a bent rail. Uneven wear along the length is completely normal, and too loose can lead to more uneven wear, as stated.

 

[retiredpop]

I would put some scratchers on it. It will help with cooling as well.

 

[N49ATV]

Yeah, I was going to for the trail in. It’s long. I don’t overheat but won’t hurt. I’ll place near the front. Okay as going to get the cable style ones, so I don’t break them off if I get pulled back. I don’t have reverse lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[N49ATV]

Has anyone ran ski scratchers? Was thinking I’d mount some as far forward as I could, as I do have quiet a bit of trail from the trucks to camp, and camp to mountains. Anyway saw they make scratchers that mount to the ski. Figured these may be the best ones to get the most lubrication to the hyfax. Provided they aren’t terrible. Worst case I’ll mount some cable style ones as far forward as I can.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[retiredpop]

When I had our 99 RMKs I drilled a 3/8" hole in the ski on the back inside corner a bit in from the edge and back and put a bolt in there. The bolt was long enough that the bottom of it was about 3/4 inch from the floor when the sled was sitting on a level dry surface like the garage floor. I put some large washers on either side of the ski so the bolt wouldn't pull through. That worked amazingly well and threw enough snow up into the skid. In fact I only changed hyfax once in 12000 plus miles just using them with no scratchers at all. Even on hard packed snow that you get on a frozen trail the bolt would hit the snow when the ski runner dropped into a rut. If you went over a log or some such obstacle the bolt didn't catch on it. I never wrecked any skis by having the bolt catch on anything. I think that probably worked better than the ski mounted scratchers because it is further back on the ski. Just an idea.

 

[N49ATV]

When I had our 99 RMKs I drilled a 3/8" hole in the ski on the back inside corner a bit in from the edge and back and put a bolt in there. The bolt was long enough that the bottom of it was about 3/4 inch from the floor when the sled was sitting on a level dry surface like the garage floor. I put some large washers on either side of the ski so the bolt wouldn't pull through. That worked amazingly well and threw enough snow up into the skid. In fact I only changed hyfax once in 12000 plus miles just using them with no scratchers at all. Even on hard packed snow that you get on a frozen trail the bolt would hit the snow when the ski runner dropped into a rut. If you went over a log or some such obstacle the bolt didn't catch on it. I never wrecked any skis by having the bolt catch on anything. I think that probably worked better than the ski mounted scratchers because it is further back on the ski. Just an idea.

I’ve heard of this solution in my searches today. I just wasn’t sure how it worked out for obstacles, and dragging back. I’ve even looked at farm equipment rakes, thinking I could make my own cheaply. I do need new skis anyway.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[volcano buster]

I did that on my Edge 144's as there wasn't a good spot on the rails to mount the long scratchers. Tried the cable scratchers on these sleds but lost one and pulled the rest off as I didn't have very good luck with them. Built them as reversible so they would hopefully last longer.

John Deere swather springs $1.75/each on sale.

 

[N49ATV]

I did that on my Edge 144's as there wasn't a good spot on the rails to mount the long scratchers. Tried the cable scratchers on these sleds but lost one and pulled the rest off as I didn't have very good luck with them. Built them as reversible so they would hopefully last longer.

John Deere swather springs $1.75/each on sale.

The ones I have been looking at were a dual rake. Is that what you got and cut half off so you got the nice hook? I can pick them up at my local peavey mart (kinda like a farm/acreage supply store), for about $3-5 depending)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[volcano buster]

Correct. A double that uses the center "hoop" to bolt to the header bar. I cut it this way so it would rotate for reverse. Nylon dowel for the pivot supports, thick washer, bolt/nut and a screw for a retainer.

 

[retiredpop]

I’ve heard of this solution in my searches today. I just wasn’t sure how it worked out for obstacles, and dragging back. I’ve even looked at farm equipment rakes, thinking I could make my own cheaply. I do need new skis anyway.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It didn't cause any problems for either of the issues you mention. I don't remember any instances of the bolts catching on anything at all. I do like the idea that volcano buster came up with too. They might throw more snow as they would constantly be in contact with the snow whereas the bolt only hits it on a hard trail when the center of the ski drops into an old ski rut (which happens a lot actually). Crossing cattle guards or roads the bolt never touches.

 

[sno*jet]

break the hyfax in (temper) and you will get better life. basically, run them up the trail then pull into fresh snow and get a bunch in there to cool them off, and stop for a few. repeat this, going a little further each time. make sure your track is aligned and tensioned correctly. make sure your track clips are all good too. and bogie bearings. you mentioned its set up with lots of front skid pressure. nothing wrong with that if you like a light front end but there is an extra wheel kit you can add up there if it continues to be a problem also. looks like you were riding in the spring. scratchers and gravel dont mix well.

 

[Cornfusion]

I was told that an old ice racer trick was to drill holes in the bottom of the hyfax. 1/4 holes in whatever pattern you want. They can be almost touching to 3/4" apart from each other but don't drill the whole way thru though.

The theory is they pack full of snow and melt out of the hyfax when they become warm, thus lubricating and cooling the hyfax as the packed snow melts. As soon as you dip back in some soft stuff it repacks the holes. Ive done this on all my sleds since hearing about it, both trail and mtn, and it has dramatically lowered my hyfax wear.

It's easiest to pull your hyfax to do this but you can drill them thru your track windows if need be. Beware, it makes a mess of twisty plastic all over your shop floor. If I remember I'll snap a pic tonight of a spare set I have.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[volcano buster]

My experience with drilling thick plastic is the stupid stuff doesn't fully cut off and wants to draw the drill in super fast.
If you end up drilling the holes in the hyfax, I would think it would almost work better to leave it on the sled and drill through the windows which holds the hyfax steady. Then add a stiff tube over the drill bit to act as a drill stop so you are only drilling the desired depth. Sharp chisel to clean up the remaining twists and move on.