• I am getting worn out moving your "For sale" threads, including loosely veiled sales pitches for "How much is it worth) or Wanted to buy to the swapmeet.

    I will no longer be moving them for you as I have been in the past.

    Some days are 20 per day.

    If I see it, it will get deleted.

    I try to help you...please try to help me.

    Thanks.
  • .
  • I've received emails and PM's asking me about "Group Buys" and promotions.

    A Group Buy here on SnoWestOnline.com would be a situation where a normal member (non vendor or mfg) personally collects orders from other members. That member then uses those orders to negotiate a better price with the Vendor/Mfg for HIS/HER "Group" of buyers.

    Here is an example of a viable "Group Buy"

    http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269222

    A promotion that has the words "Group Buy" in the title is still a promotion, and from the rules that were handed down to me by Harris Publications is that non-advertisers cannot run promotions or open sales programs on the forums outside of the swapmeet.

    If a members wants to become a group buy manager, maintain a thread and collect the funds and negotiate a group buy... as a member, you are welcome to do that as long as you are not attached to the business of the vendor or Mfg.

    If you are a vendor/MFG and you want to offer an EXCLUSIVE "SnoWestOnline ONLY" promotion that is exclusive to snowest readers, please contact me and you'll be able to put it up in the Polaris forums.

    Also, before any vendors/mfgs get all "riled up" over this know that the moderators are strictly volunteers and do not receive a dime from any advertising $$ spent on this site.

    As ALWAYS, since DAY ONE of me becoming a moderator, I have pioneered, supported and encouraged vendors and mfgs in getting the word out to our readers with "New Product Announcements.

    Have a great season.

    From this point on, all vendors/mfg's promoting Pre-Season tiered sales programs, in the Polaris Forums, that are not paid advertisers will be appropriately moved to the swapmeet section of the forums.

    MH

Turbo Clutching Update

philsummers21

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Looking for some updates on what everyones final clutching is to there turbod Pros. Currently running the following setup at 8-10000 ft. 10# of boost. runs about 8100 rpms, kind of sluggish off bottom and secondary is getting hotter then id like. Setup has to be close as it runs pretty good and doesnt blow belts.

2011 Pro 163 12 Boondocker kit

20/42 Gearing

Primary:
10-70
Almond spring (165-325)

Secondary:
40-46 .36
Black/Orange (180-280)
 
Last edited:

philsummers21

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I guess everyone is celebrating christmas or doesnt want to share setups.

Thinking about trying to gear down to a 19/42 or 19/43 see if it helps make the sled more snappy off the bottom.

Also may order a new helix 40-48 .40 and 40-50 .40 along with some rooster adjustable weights.
 

die hard poo

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Apr 10, 2008
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Kenai, AK
Looking for some updates on what everyones final clutching is to there turbod Pros. Currently running the following setup at 8-10000 ft. 10# of boost. runs about 8100 rpms, kind of sluggish off bottom and secondary is getting hotter then id like. Setup has to be close as it runs pretty good and doesnt blow belts.

2011 Pro 163 12 Boondocker kit

20/42 Gearing

Primary:
10-70
Almond spring (165-325)

Secondary:
40-46 .36
Black/Orange (180-280)
Here is my set up:
2012 silber kit with boost it fuel controller
7# of boost at 0-3000ft
Current engagement 4200rpm, 8150rpm peak

Clutching:
Team Pink (180/320) primary spring
78g Rooster weights loaded: 2g heel, 5.5g at mid and tip

Orange/black (180/280) Sec spring
42/46/.36 Helix

This seems to be pretty good, but I ordered an EPI pink (185/300)
primary spring to let me run less weight and get my engagement slightly higher. I noticed if you get the engagement too low(below 4000rpm), it lugs the motor too bad and makes it feel very sluggish. I am shooting for 4500rpm engagement to get that snappyness back off engagement like a stock sled. If this spring doesn't allow me to get my engagement higher, I will use the spring washers to increase the engagement some...
Hope this helps! Loving the boost tho!
 

philsummers21

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Yeah i actually thought about trying to raise my engagement a bit as well to see how that works. Little different clutching thinking from naturally aspirated to turbos.
 

2XM3

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Oct 6, 2008
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Bitteroot valley,MT
silber @ 10 psi

155/300 speedwerks H5 primary
76.5 gr roosters , all in the tip
40 50 .4 team helix
145/310 secondary with 2 delrins

@ 7500 ft 8250 pretty good on the bottom as well

Team tied next step

note : the more angle your helix is on top (50) the more pressure you MUST run on the secondary spring to stop belt from slipping under load :face-icon-small-sad...watch belt temps when uppin helix angles, I'd like to go 40 52 and see if i could get it to hold :face-icon-small-dis:face-icon-small-win...the more helix angle on top the less weight you can run,:face-icon-small-sho the less weight the more snappy the bottom will be :face-icon-small-hap its a fine balancing act..:yo:
 

philsummers21

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Yeah. Pretty sure im going to try a 40-50 .40 helix. Question that gets me is im running 10-70 weights. Most ive seen are running 75-78grams. With my setup im running only 8200 @ 11# at 10000.
Ordered a sw 175-305 and a 180-300.
Probably get a set of rooster weights coming
 

2XM3

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umm kind of interesting there,I had 74 in mine and with 9 psi at 7000 ft pegged rev limit at 8400 ish...but then again i had the rooster weights not the 10 series, and 10000 is gettin up there for sure.
 

philsummers21

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Rooster weights are the same profile as the 10s. Course if your @ 9# @ 7000 your making more hp then i am with 11# @ 10000. Planning on clutching for around 12# around 10k.
 
Feb 28, 2009
40
8
8
2011 boondocker

I have a 2011 boondocker pro 162 running 8# and am running :
Almond/red 165/310
Polaris 10/68 weights
Stock gearing
I will have to check and report back on helix and secondary spring
Running at 8-11k and hitting 8100 rpm max

Feels like stock on bottom end very responsive I am thinking I may grind clutch weights down to 67 or get a 165/320
Spring to get the rpms up o. Top a bit other than that it runs spot on. I am interested to see how the gear down does for you.
 

whittaker727

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
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Naples, Id
silber @ 10 psi

155/300 speedwerks H5 primary
76.5 gr roosters , all in the tip
40 50 .4 team helix
145/310 secondary with 2 delrins

@ 7500 ft 8250 pretty good on the bottom as well

Team tied next step

note : the more angle your helix is on top (50) the more pressure you MUST run on the secondary spring to stop belt from slipping under load :face-icon-small-sad...watch belt temps when uppin helix angles, I'd like to go 40 52 and see if i could get it to hold :face-icon-small-dis:face-icon-small-win...the more helix angle on top the less weight you can run,:face-icon-small-sho the less weight the more snappy the bottom will be :face-icon-small-hap its a fine balancing act..:yo:
As per your recomondations Bill,

I too am running a 40-50 .40 or 40-48 .40
140/300 Titanium secondary

MDS turbo weights 74.4 gr loaded in the tip and the middle with a black/green pirmary

7 tooth drivers, 3" track 19/43 gears and I LOVE it! Super cool belt temps and awesome up and back shift. 300 miles of smiles now :bounce:
 

2XM3

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team still has the titanium secondary springs in stock, you will need the special delrin too if ya go with the titanium spring :face-icon-small-coo
 
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