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TSS & Throttle Cable Question

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Mar 9, 2015
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Anyone have a loose throttle cable cause the throttle safety switch to cut the ignition circuit? I am pretty sure that is what happened to me this weekend. Sled died like i hit the kill switch, checked and had no spark. Towed the sled for a minute then it restarted, ran for a minute and died. Both times that it died i had just left the throttle.

Anyway i adjusted the cable and the sled starts fine in the garage. I want to go test but am wanting to be able to disconnect the tss if it fails again. Anyone know how to do that? and if the sled will run with it disconnected?

Thanks,
Mark
 
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richracer1

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Are you referring to the Throttle Position Sensor - TPS (located on the throttle bodies) or the Throttle Safety Switch - TSS (located on the handlebar with the flipper)?
 

turbolover

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You can remove the hood and follow the wires down to the bundle of wires at the top of the over structure. Open the Velcro bag up and follow the TSS wires down into that bundle. Unplug it and then you can go ride like normal if it keeps giving you fits.
Make sure you have a tether installed if you do this as there will be nothing to shut it down if it gets away from you.

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turbolover

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This is a bandaid fix to get you home or to save a trip. I wouldn't recommend just unhooking it as a permanent fix.

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hawktoy85

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I have 3 2014 pros and 2 out of the 3 have had the same issue. 1 of them only did it during one ride and has never happened again. the other has done it a couple times. But haven't had an issue with either of them in 300 - 400 miles. I didn't do anything to fix them. They just worked themselves out.

I think it is some kind of iceing issue. each time that it was happening I was able to flick the throttle a few time and make sure your pushing on the very tip of the thumb throttle and get it to start working again. And then it would be good the rest of the day. It is very weird.

They are under warranty but it just hasn't come up again.
 
C
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Pretty normal to have to adjust the cable once from new. Both my hold over 14 and my buddies 14 have needed the adjustment done. My 13 needed it last year. The symptoms you describe are 99% for sure the cable adjustment. Snug it up and ride it.
 

Stroker Customs

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You can NOT simply unhook the TSS. The computer has to see resistance or it will not start. You will have to take the throttle assembly apart and inside the TSS there is a resistor. Take the resistor out and solder it between the 2 wires and plug that back into the sled
 

Stroker Customs

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Almost forgot to say the cause of the issue is due to snow packing in the throttle right by the hinge point. This does not allow the TSS switch to activate so once the snow or ice gets cleared out then everything is fine again. Hence the reason it works fine in the garage. So 2 options are keep snow clear of TSS or bypass it as I have described above and never worry about it again.
 

Boston Racing

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I find than when they are too tight it causes issues. I usually have 1/8 or so of cable slack. The guys that tighten them up also need to remember they essentially make their TPS out of spec and its dangerous not to have the correct throttle freeplay. IMO disabling the TSS is also a bad idea.....
 
C
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I find than when they are too tight it causes issues. I usually have 1/8 or so of cable slack. The guys that tighten them up also need to remember they essentially make their TPS out of spec and its dangerous not to have the correct throttle freeplay. IMO disabling the TSS is also a bad idea.....


I need some clarification here. I understood that factory spec was 1 mm of play at the flipper not 1/8", which is ~3.2 mm.

As long as you do not tighten the cable to the point where it is pulling the throttles open I do not see how you are affecting the TPS. I suspect the only thing that really happens, if you over tighten it, is a high idle...
 

turbolover

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You can NOT simply unhook the TSS. The computer has to see resistance or it will not start. You will have to take the throttle assembly apart and inside the TSS there is a resistor. Take the resistor out and solder it between the 2 wires and plug that back into the sled

OK. You can do all that orrrr just unplug it and ride the crap out of it.

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Stroker Customs

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I need some clarification here. I understood that factory spec was 1 mm of play at the flipper not 1/8", which is ~3.2 mm.

As long as you do not tighten the cable to the point where it is pulling the throttles open I do not see how you are affecting the TPS. I suspect the only thing that really happens, if you over tighten it, is a high idle...

you want a little slack in it. You should notice the pivot pin is slotted, if you tighten the cable to much it slides the pivot pin back into the TSS and it will kill the engine. You can confirm this by starting the sled while it is idling and start tightening the cable, once you get to a certain point the sled will shut off like you hit the kill switch then you know that is to tight. hope that helps
 

turbolover

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Good luck

Well my sled must be jacked up worse than I thought. I was on a 6 day riding trip. I would go to do a right hand side hill and it would just die. This was on day 2.
We adjusted the throttle cable and it helped but didn't stop it.
Finally got fed up and traced the TSS wires into the bundle of wires in front of the steering post at the top of the over structure and UNPLUGGED IT.
Fired it back up and checked the throttle. Everything worked fine. Put the hood back on and rode the piss out of it for the rest of the trip.
Brought it home.
Unloaded it in the driveway that way. TSS UNPLUGGED.
I haven't had time to dig into it yet and find the problem.
So if the sled has to have a resistance from an ON/OFF "SWITCH", I have a whole lot more digging to do to find the magic hidden resistor.


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Reg2view

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Adjusting throttle freeplay at the bars has absolutely zero impact on TPS setting. Too much slack can limit the throttle bodies to not fully open. TSS works best with the freeplay set to spec. Powder in throttle is usually the biggest culprit, some days worse than others. Seen it happen after a stop, dies past idle, and will throw a code and check eng lite.
 

Stroker Customs

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Well my sled must be jacked up worse than I thought. I was on a 6 day riding trip. I would go to do a right hand side hill and it would just die. This was on day 2.
We adjusted the throttle cable and it helped but didn't stop it.
Finally got fed up and traced the TSS wires into the bundle of wires in front of the steering post at the top of the over structure and UNPLUGGED IT.
Fired it back up and checked the throttle. Everything worked fine. Put the hood back on and rode the piss out of it for the rest of the trip.
Brought it home.
Unloaded it in the driveway that way. TSS UNPLUGGED.
I haven't had time to dig into it yet and find the problem.
So if the sled has to have a resistance from an ON/OFF "SWITCH", I have a whole lot more digging to do to find the magic hidden resistor.





Ok I'm gonna do my best to try and explain this so hopefully it's not to confusing. The TSS is designed to shut the sled down in the event let say your throttle bodie blades freeze wide open when you let off the throttle the resistance is broke and your still showing above idle on the TPS. Fancy safety feature for an event that rarely happens but serves a purpose.

So here's how it works the TPS is reading .94v at 1750 RPM let's say. Computer gathers this input and says ok I'm at idle. Now the throttle is pressed engaging the TSS showing the computer a resistance of whatever value. Once the computer sees this resistance it says ok the operator has meant to do this I can now accept the voltage on the TPS to increase confirming that the operator is wanting to increase throttle.

So If you are able to unplug the TSS without a resistance then your computer is not reading your TPS move. If you bypass the TSS with the resistor then you can adjust your throttle cable and it will raise your idle and it will change your TPS setting because it sees the resistance all the time. Keep in mind if you do this then it does effect other things because the TPS is not showing the correct voltage with the correct idle so even though you have adjusted your idle to 1750 and the TPS is reading 1.0V to accomplish this then it will not go into reverse because the TPS is out of spec. Clear as mud?
 

turbolover

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Ok I'm gonna do my best to try and explain this so hopefully it's not to confusing. The TSS is designed to shut the sled down in the event let say your throttle bodie blades freeze wide open when you let off the throttle the resistance is broke and your still showing above idle on the TPS. Fancy safety feature for an event that rarely happens but serves a purpose.

So here's how it works the TPS is reading .94v at 1750 RPM let's say. Computer gathers this input and says ok I'm at idle. Now the throttle is pressed engaging the TSS showing the computer a resistance of whatever value. Once the computer sees this resistance it says ok the operator has meant to do this I can now accept the voltage on the TPS to increase confirming that the operator is wanting to increase throttle.

So If you are able to unplug the TSS without a resistance then your computer is not reading your TPS move. If you bypass the TSS with the resistor then you can adjust your throttle cable and it will raise your idle and it will change your TPS setting because it sees the resistance all the time. Keep in mind if you do this then it does effect other things because the TPS is not showing the correct voltage with the correct idle so even though you have adjusted your idle to 1750 and the TPS is reading 1.0V to accomplish this then it will not go into reverse because the TPS is out of spec. Clear as mud?

Look I am not arguing with you on what the TSS does.
Yes it is designed to shut the sled down in a situation that the throttle gets stuck wide open without pressure on the flipper. Example jammed full of snow and sled takes off without the rider.

I guess I will have to make a video tonight to show you that the sled will work with the TSS (Throttle Safety Switch) unplugged. Reverse included.

I will plug it back into to show proper operation. Shutdown with TSS not engaged and that it will work with the TSS unplugged.
 

NapaMatt

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Turbo Lover..

Sure you didn't disconnect the Kill Switch plug in..??

There are Three / wire harnesses coming from the Throttle block..

One Hand warmers..

Two Tss Switch

Three Kill Switch



Unplugging the Hand warmer or the kill switch one it would run as ur sled is..

Bit with the tss unplugged.. It shouldn't be running in rev. or over 3 k..

Just my point of view.
 
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