J
Hey all, how do you decide on the overall TSS rear shock length, strictly based on seat height preference or something else? thx
TSS length adjustment choice
- Thread starter johnye75
- Start date
R
Are you wanting to raise or lower the stance? I have no idea the answer but would like to lower my bike and didn't think it was possible.
J
my tss is threaded in as much as it goes, so I get a lower seat, but was not sure if that goes against some other ergonomics in play.
A
I set my TSS to what timbersled recommended and found my bike to be in a stinkbug stance. The seat was super high and I didn't love the handling.
Changing the length does more than just alter the seat height, it changes the chassis geometry.
I shortened mine in order to get the seat "level" visually and I was happy with the handling so I left it there.
Changing the length does more than just alter the seat height, it changes the chassis geometry.
I shortened mine in order to get the seat "level" visually and I was happy with the handling so I left it there.
Set your TSS so your lugs are slightly off the ground on the rear of your track with bike ski straight and sitting on flat ground. This is a neutral position. If you want more ski lift light ski feel, shorten the shock. Careful not to shorten too much as this will increase the rake on front forks and put too much pressure on back of ski and cause steering problems.
sweet spot for ski is to have the ski bolt 7/8”- 1” behind fork shaft.
sweet spot for ski is to have the ski bolt 7/8”- 1” behind fork shaft.
So this depends a bit on the bike you are running the kit on... but generally I've found the best way to work the TSS length is to use the angle of the forks as the guide. The spec length from Polaris is almost always too long. 30 degrees is a really good starting point on just about every bike and kit. The Aro preferring a bit more than the Riot. You can use your phone with a bubble level app, I prefer a cheap magnetic angle meter (amazon 30 bucks). You can use it on a chop saw and table saw to be more accurate too. You want to measure off the center of the fork area between the ski and top of the tube. there is taper on the sanctions so just above where a hole shot device goes is a good area to put it. 30 degrees from vertical or 60 from horizontal depending on your reference. Don't forget to take the wheel kit off so your measuring how the bit sits clean off the garage floor.
Just another note here. Rear ski pressure is better for trail effect on roads and groomers. I've been adding a wedge or some extra rubber between the spindle and the back rubber pad on the ski to tilt the ski rearwards and it helps a ton. using a stiffer rubber like a durapro also keeps the ski from stuffing if you hit a wall of snow and tilting back so far it brings you to a stop. Finally... the berg triple carbide skeg is just amazing compared to the duce or the stock steel hoop.
All of this assumes you've sprung your fork properly or have a Trio and your forks aren't sitting half through the travel with the snow kit on the bike vs a dirt setup.
Just another note here. Rear ski pressure is better for trail effect on roads and groomers. I've been adding a wedge or some extra rubber between the spindle and the back rubber pad on the ski to tilt the ski rearwards and it helps a ton. using a stiffer rubber like a durapro also keeps the ski from stuffing if you hit a wall of snow and tilting back so far it brings you to a stop. Finally... the berg triple carbide skeg is just amazing compared to the duce or the stock steel hoop.
All of this assumes you've sprung your fork properly or have a Trio and your forks aren't sitting half through the travel with the snow kit on the bike vs a dirt setup.
