• I am getting worn out moving your "For sale" threads, including loosely veiled sales pitches for "How much is it worth) or Wanted to buy to the swapmeet.

    I will no longer be moving them for you as I have been in the past.

    Some days are 20 per day.

    If I see it, it will get deleted.

    I try to help you...please try to help me.

    Thanks.
  • .
  • I've received emails and PM's asking me about "Group Buys" and promotions.

    A Group Buy here on SnoWestOnline.com would be a situation where a normal member (non vendor or mfg) personally collects orders from other members. That member then uses those orders to negotiate a better price with the Vendor/Mfg for HIS/HER "Group" of buyers.

    Here is an example of a viable "Group Buy"

    http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269222

    A promotion that has the words "Group Buy" in the title is still a promotion, and from the rules that were handed down to me by Harris Publications is that non-advertisers cannot run promotions or open sales programs on the forums outside of the swapmeet.

    If a members wants to become a group buy manager, maintain a thread and collect the funds and negotiate a group buy... as a member, you are welcome to do that as long as you are not attached to the business of the vendor or Mfg.

    If you are a vendor/MFG and you want to offer an EXCLUSIVE "SnoWestOnline ONLY" promotion that is exclusive to snowest readers, please contact me and you'll be able to put it up in the Polaris forums.

    Also, before any vendors/mfgs get all "riled up" over this know that the moderators are strictly volunteers and do not receive a dime from any advertising $$ spent on this site.

    As ALWAYS, since DAY ONE of me becoming a moderator, I have pioneered, supported and encouraged vendors and mfgs in getting the word out to our readers with "New Product Announcements.

    Have a great season.

    From this point on, all vendors/mfg's promoting Pre-Season tiered sales programs, in the Polaris Forums, that are not paid advertisers will be appropriately moved to the swapmeet section of the forums.

    MH

TRS Clutching [ PART FOUR ]

TRS

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Perfect thank you. I'm not sure what to look for with the belt witness marks, I know you posted about it earlier in this thread but I couldn't ever view that picture for some reason.
After a few miles you will see a wear pattern on each side of your belt. Adjust your secondary in or out to get them as close as possible. .130” has worked for the majority of sleds.
The AXYS engine moves around a lot and has massive lead in. Each sled has its oun neutral position.
 

diamonddave

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For the AXYS.
Using the 191 bar you start with .130” clearance between the bar and the front of the secondary. From there you rely on your belts witness marks to fine tune offset.


Tony just out of curiosity, what kind of distance between the bar and the secondary did you run the Pro chassis with the 191 bar?
 

TRS

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Tony just out of curiosity, what kind of distance between the bar and the secondary did you run the Pro chassis with the 191 bar?
With the engine at proper alignment and leadin you set it at .100” with the secondary pushed inward. Then add .030” of outward float.
 

Norway

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With the engine at proper alignment and leadin you set it at .100” with the secondary pushed inward. Then add .030” of outward float.
You may have mentioned it, but what about torque arms? Is it possible to reason out a bese alignment, or do you get to many variables with how tight people set their tourqe arms and different brands etc?

Sent fra min S60 via Tapatalk
 

TRS

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You may have mentioned it, but what about torque arms? Is it possible to reason out a bese alignment, or do you get to many variables with how tight people set their tourqe arms and different brands etc?

Sent fra min S60 via Tapatalk
If you have the engine in proper alignment a torque arm works great. If an engine isn’t in proper alignment with to much lead in a torque arm will not let the engine “try” to get to the neutral position. Belt life will be greatly reduced. Does this answer your question?
 

diamonddave

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With the engine at proper alignment and leadin you set it at .100” with the secondary pushed inward. Then add .030” of outward float.


Thank you Sir. I am trying to cheat with my OEM Pro-Ride alignment tool (for now) on my wife's sled and was looking for the differences. I suspected this sled was way off. I think I have verified with your dimensions that it is.


Axys: 0.130" to bar. Pro 0.100" to bar.

If I am understanding you correctly, the Axys secondary would then sit 0.030" farther inside than a Pro.

I checked my wife's with my tool and it had 0.120" gap pulled all the way to the outside and 0.160" pushed in. Normally on a Pro without belt issues, the tool will be within 0.030. I have checked quite a few that were a mile off with belt issues.

When I use it on a Pro, I shoot for the front touching the tool and like to float 0.030" in and 0.030" out for a total of 0.060". I have found this to be perfect for belt wear, belt life, and wear pattern. On the Pro.


I am going to shift my set-up to the inside 0.030". And check for witness marks.

I also have some different primary springs, secondary springs, and lightening weights (if needed) to try.
 

Stutz

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Has anyone had success adjusting boost to dial in rpm for a given weight? For example, say I was running a 72g weight at some elevation and found it to be slightly light for the conditions so the adjustment made for the day is back off on boost?
 

Spaarky

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Yes. I have dialed mine up or down.

Lighter spring set ups can drop the weight too. I think we dropped mine turbo from 75.6 to 71.5. Same boost.
 

Norway

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Justin, how much spring did you drop with the 4 gram power weights?



I now have a T-Pro and NA Axys TRS set up dialed for 4-6k. When I get home, I will share my notes.
Curious on that Axys NA setup!

Sent fra min S60 via Tapatalk
 

Spaarky

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Justin, how much spring did you drop with the 4 gram power weights?

I now have a T-Pro and NA Axys TRS set up dialed for 4-6k. When I get home, I will share my notes.
Quit a bit. Think I have 125/175 in the secondary. Had a 150/290 in the primary but dropped from that. I didn’t go down as far as Tory, but I was inbetween.

At the last, I was back up a little on the springs. I have LW crank in my pro. Just seemed like the more I let the rpms climb the better it ran. When I put it away last spring it was just signing at 85-8600.

Still can’t keep up with Tony’s beast. I built mine to match his too. I ccan run with him for a bit, then his just catches another gear and goes. I would like to see another 800 keep up with it. Heck I bet it would make 850’s run home to mommy.
 
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djarvis

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SLP 191 alignment bar

Can the SLP 191 bar be used with electric start primary? Do you just cut the tabs off that fit around the back of the clutch so it fits over ring gear?
 

Tewstroke

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If you have a non-electric start primary, Tony mentioned that one could put that on to do the alignment and the put the ES clutch back on.
 

diamonddave

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2018 Axys 163 2.6" w/ES

Stock pipe with SLP "quieter" can. Still too loud for my liking.


Primary 64 gram (weighed) stamped 62.5 Lightening weights with stock primary spring 120/320 and 2 thundershift shims (top and bottom of spring) and running the 1183 PI Belt shimmed to exactly 0.030" belt to sheave clearance.


Secondary: I went a little different. 42/34 F with venom reverse cut and 125/175 spring with a Team Delrin under the cup. Aligned and running 0.072" float. The other cut is 40/34 F. Haven't tried it yet.


At 6,000 ft. she pulls hard (8,250-8,300 RPM)in 3 feet of heavier snow, upshifts lightening quick and downshifts great when needed. Engagement is around 3,900 RPM.


I may try a 100-200 secondary spring. If you were going to nitpick this setup for absolute perfection, getting the CVT to stay and hold low range for slow speed, downhill engine braking would be the only thing you could find with this setup on this sled. It upshifts so quickly that I think it could run a little more spring and be absolute perfection.



I hope that doesn't upset Justin.

Now we just need some weather.
 

Octanee

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Anybody finding the primary springs such as VENOM springs to be rubbing into the spider? the spring/s are fatter about 1 coil turn above the base on each end, so when the spring does compress it starts to rub into the spider. is this an issue or no? my OEM spring which is a 140/330 is the same width the full way, where as my pink spring 180/330 is fatter as well just off the ends and I wanted to try a Orange 165/310, not sure if thats a real issue or not? noticed after about 1000km she made its self a wider groove just up from where the spring sits in as its worn.

Also My helix has 2 options, 44-48F or 42-46F, I was running the 44-48F, what Would I notice should I try it in the 42-46? I was reading a shallower angle makes it shift "upshift" sooner loading the engine more? is that true? If so I'd want to stick on the 44-48 for a quicker rev? it's such a balance game between it all I know, I don't know a TON on clutching.
 

tdbaugha

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Secondary: I went a little different. 42/34 F with venom reverse cut and 125/175 spring with a Team Delrin under the cup.
Have you got to full shift at all? Im surprised your secondary can hold the belt with a 34 degree and 175 lb finish in your cascade concrete. I know it’s quite a bit different, but my turbo with 42/32f and 125-175 spring would slip in the secondary from about 75-100% shift in our snow. Leaving black marks on the sheaves. It would hold it with 100-200 though.

I'm going to try the 46/32f with the 125-175 spring in my NA 850. We should maybe start a new NA TRS thread...
 
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diamonddave

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Have you got to full shift at all? Im surprised your secondary can hold the belt with a 34 degree and 175 lb finish in your cascade concrete. I know it’s quite a bit different, but my turbo with 42/32f and 125-175 spring would slip in the secondary from about 75-100% shift in our snow. Leaving black marks on the sheaves. It would hold it with 100-200 though.

I'm going to try the 46/32f with the 125-175 spring in my NA 850. We should maybe start a new NA TRS thread...


Yes, I had it at full shift a few times 70 of the meter. No slipping, pulled all the way.


Stock gearing and 1183 belt be the difference? Interesting.....

And most of this time was in Seeley. 8 days there bouncing off rocks, logs, and stumps the first 3 days. Good times.
 

Norway

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Have you got to full shift at all? Im surprised your secondary can hold the belt with a 34 degree and 175 lb finish in your cascade concrete. I know it’s quite a bit different, but my turbo with 42/32f and 125-175 spring would slip in the secondary from about 75-100% shift in our snow. Leaving black marks on the sheaves. It would hold it with 100-200 though.

I'm going to try the 46/32f with the 125-175 spring in my NA 850. We should maybe start a new NA TRS thread...
We got it, NA thread on TRS clutching been going since spring of 17.

Please join us!

Sent fra min S60 via Tapatalk
 

gmustangt

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Assuming same weights.

Gates and oem poo belt receive the same shimming?

Is the gates belt same width as oem?
 
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