• I've received emails and PM's asking me about "Group Buys" and promotions.

    A Group Buy here on SnoWestOnline.com would be a situation where a normal member (non vendor or mfg) personally collects orders from other members. That member then uses those orders to negotiate a better price with the Vendor/Mfg for HIS/HER "Group" of buyers.

    Here is an example of a viable "Group Buy"

    http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269222

    A promotion that has the words "Group Buy" in the title is still a promotion, and from the rules that were handed down to me by Harris Publications is that non-advertisers cannot run promotions or open sales programs on the forums outside of the swapmeet.

    If a members wants to become a group buy manager, maintain a thread and collect the funds and negotiate a group buy... as a member, you are welcome to do that as long as you are not attached to the business of the vendor or Mfg.

    If you are a vendor/MFG and you want to offer an EXCLUSIVE "SnoWestOnline ONLY" promotion that is exclusive to snowest readers, please contact me and you'll be able to put it up in the Polaris forums.

    Also, before any vendors/mfgs get all "riled up" over this know that the moderators are strictly volunteers and do not receive a dime from any advertising $$ spent on this site.

    As ALWAYS, since DAY ONE of me becoming a moderator, I have pioneered, supported and encouraged vendors and mfgs in getting the word out to our readers with "New Product Announcements.

    Have a great season.

    From this point on, all vendors/mfg's promoting Pre-Season tiered sales programs, in the Polaris Forums, that are not paid advertisers will be appropriately moved to the swapmeet section of the forums.

    MH

TPS check / adjust step by step.

Thread Rating
5.00 star(s)

Sage Crusher

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Understood-
Instead of killing yourself with the TPS (as it does get frustrating) go with what you have coming ( Fuel Pump) and see what that brings you, since you have checked what TRS has given also.

I just assume you have good fresh fuel for the early season rides/ unless this happened end of last season.

One thing at a time or your going to have a can of worms
 

richracer1

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Hey guys,

I've checked and adjusted my TPS a few times with this method and each time it has worked just fine. In prep for the season I went to test it this time and when I back Probed to the Yellow wire and hooked it up to a 12 volt battery it showed nothing on the Volt Meter. When I moved to the Blue Wire and stayed hooked up to power still nothing. Then I disconnected from the power and left the volt meter hooked to the blue wire and immediately started to get the reading on the volt meter. I was not expecting that since the sled didn't have any power to it. Any ideas what is going on? Should I be concerned about an issue? I really have no idea about electronics etc so any help would be great.

Thanks




FYI, this makes it so much easier to check/adjust the TPS. No guessing on wires. TPS Test Cable/Kits
 
Jan 21, 2017
4
0
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Is it better to set the Idle voltage to specification or set the idle stop screw to the desired RPM 1600-1700? Is anyone finding the idle voltage to be spot on for idle RPM? It would appear my machine was idling way to low, so I have double checked my base 0.700 voltage setting again. I then re-set the idle voltage. I was wondering how one sets the idle RPM with the tank removed. I assume I will have to remove the air box, then reconnect the tank, start machine and adjust to correct RPM?
 

d8grandpa

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Is it better to set the Idle voltage to specification or set the idle stop screw to the desired RPM 1600-1700? Is anyone finding the idle voltage to be spot on for idle RPM? It would appear my machine was idling way to low, so I have double checked my base 0.700 voltage setting again. I then re-set the idle voltage. I was wondering how one sets the idle RPM with the tank removed. I assume I will have to remove the air box, then reconnect the tank, start machine and adjust to correct RPM?

If you have your base set to .700, then set your idle voltage to .940. It should be good, it will idle warm about 1850, cold first start up they idle about 2200
 
Oct 16, 2014
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2013 had a slight bog at WOT, thought TPS might be the issue. Measured base voltage and it was off ( it was high, I didnt record the actual reading.) So adjusted the base to 0.70 and .94V for idle. But now the sled idle at around 2400 RPM.

To get it to idle around 1800, I had to adjust the voltage to .913.

Is it possible that the throttle bodies need to be syc'ed? I am fairy confident I don't have any air leaks, as this all came up after I started adjusting the TPS.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
Jan 1, 2015
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1
I make a tool specifically for reading the TPS and I'm looking to hire people to video showing how to use it on different snowmobiles. If you're interested in making a few bucks by shooting a video using the tool on your snowmobile, please message me. See the tool at TPSTool.com , email me at mwolfe at qualitysmart dot com.
 

02sedona

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Finally got around to this project. My sled had lost reverse first, then started to idle low, then ran really boggy in lower rpm's. After the last ride I knew it was time to tackle it. Spent 3 hours trying to get it set with a sub $30 multimeter. No luck at all with the cheap tool. I will stress that you need a decent tool for the job. I purchased a new more expensive multimeter today and had it set in 10 minutes. Idles at 1450-1500 rpms at my house at 4500ft. Found out that a chipped reed was the reason for my low idle. Now it is idling at 1750 and reverse works again. Hopefully I can get a day off to ride and test it out.
Set my base to .700
Set my idle to .942
 
Last edited:
Feb 21, 2016
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Bend, Oregon
I don’t understand what I’m doing wrong.

Yellow wire tests at 5. Red probe to yellow and black to chassis, I get 5 so moving on...

What is the next step after that? Red probe to yellow wire and black probe to blue wire? This reading is the base correct? I’m getting 4?

Which way do you move the tps sensor for a higher base reading?

Lastly Which wires do I probe to test the idle? There was no mention of how to get the .9xx reading just how to adjust it with the idle screw.
 

SRXSRULE

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I don’t understand what I’m doing wrong.

Yellow wire tests at 5. Red probe to yellow and black to chassis, I get 5 so moving on...

What is the next step after that? Red probe to yellow wire and black probe to blue wire? This reading is the base correct? I’m getting 4?

Which way do you move the tps sensor for a higher base reading?

Lastly Which wires do I probe to test the idle? There was no mention of how to get the .9xx reading just how to adjust it with the idle screw.

This is interesting.... I just looked back at my original post and there is a typing error that could cause confusion. here is a quote from the original post.

"Put the red lead to the Yellow wire on the TPS connector and make sure you have 5.00-5.01 volts. If thats good, now move your back probe to the blue wire on the TPS connector. You should have something in the .690-.712 volt range, thats the spec for your BASE setting."

it SHOULD say "now move your RED probe to the blue"

The connector has 3 wires:
Yellow = 5 volt
Blue = TPS signal
Black = ground

Your BLACK test lead can stay on chassis ground the entire time. Your checking the yellow wire to make sure you have 5 volts and a good ground connection. Red test lead to yellow to check for 5 volts, if thats good then just move the Red test lead to your blue signal wire. You keep the test leads like this for both of your readings. The "BASE" setting is throttle unhooked and idle screw backed off, once those 2 conditions are meet you loosen the screw on the tps sensor and move the sensor to get your desired base setting. you dont need to move it much and will quickly see which way it needs to move.

Once you have your base setting correct with the TPS sensor screws tighten down, then you can set your IDLE setting. Test leads still on chassis ground and the blue signal wire. Now you hook the throttle cable back up and slowly turn your idle adjustment screw back in to get your idle setting.

Hope that helps.
 

richracer1

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Thanks, SRXSRULE. He asked me for some help yesterday via a PM but I didn't see it till 11 or so P.M.




This is interesting.... I just looked back at my original post and there is a typing error that could cause confusion. here is a quote from the original post.

"Put the red lead to the Yellow wire on the TPS connector and make sure you have 5.00-5.01 volts. If thats good, now move your back probe to the blue wire on the TPS connector. You should have something in the .690-.712 volt range, thats the spec for your BASE setting."

it SHOULD say "now move your RED probe to the blue"

The connector has 3 wires:
Yellow = 5 volt
Blue = TPS signal
Black = ground

Your BLACK test lead can stay on chassis ground the entire time. Your checking the yellow wire to make sure you have 5 volts and a good ground connection. Red test lead to yellow to check for 5 volts, if thats good then just move the Red test lead to your blue signal wire. You keep the test leads like this for both of your readings. The "BASE" setting is throttle unhooked and idle screw backed off, once those 2 conditions are meet you loosen the screw on the tps sensor and move the sensor to get your desired base setting. you dont need to move it much and will quickly see which way it needs to move.

Once you have your base setting correct with the TPS sensor screws tighten down, then you can set your IDLE setting. Test leads still on chassis ground and the blue signal wire. Now you hook the throttle cable back up and slowly turn your idle adjustment screw back in to get your idle setting.

Hope that helps.
 
Feb 21, 2016
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Bend, Oregon
I’m getting no power to the tps connector now.


Yellow and blue, nothing. 12volts going into system.


Put it back together, check engine light is on and only revs to 7500...wtf


Idles now, didn’t before I was able to get the base setting to .705 before it all went dead.

Pretty sure the CEL is from something tps related?
 
Last edited:
Mar 16, 2019
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1
2017 Switchback Assault low idle RPM

Hi All,

I have a 2017 Switchback Assault 144 that has a low idle issue, but after trying everything in the thread still can’t seem to figure out how to fix it. Sled was purchased at the beginning of the season with 1500 miles and it now has 3000 miles, it runs great except for the low idle (1350-1650 RPM) since day one. All riding is at or just above sea level elevation (0-1000 ft) with premium non-ethanol gas and same setting on the sled. Please see below for everything I have tried and let me know if you have any suggestions for what else to try.

-Set base and idle timing (boy is the access a pain in the rear – access pics attached)
• As found: 0.684 VDC base / 0.920 VDC idle
• Corrected: 0.71 VDC base / 0.941 VDC idle
-Inspected and cleaned Exhaust Valves – did not disconnect linkage
-Replaced spark plugs with OEM recommended – old ones looked good
-Inspected and cleaned Reeds – did not find any cracks or damage (pic attached)
-Set base and idle timing (again)
• Did not record as found values but they were only marginally different from as set before
• Corrected: 0.699 VDC base / 0.94 VDC idle – (pic attached)

I still have the same low idle RPM and there are no engine codes displayed on the gauge cluster. Please help…
 

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Glad I found this thread.....2012 RMK 800 that would not go into reverse so dealer adjusted TPS to spec using digital wrench which fixed the reverse issue but now it won't idle or rev past 7500. They say it needs a primary clutch...no answer for the idle issue.
 

tuneman

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Glad I found this thread.....2012 RMK 800 that would not go into reverse so dealer adjusted TPS to spec using digital wrench which fixed the reverse issue but now it won't idle or rev past 7500. They say it needs a primary clutch...no answer for the idle issue.
Check your throttle play. Should be able to slip a credit card in the gap. Otherwise, check reeds. For high rpm issue, see if your primary clutch spring is still in one piece. Take the cover off to be certain, as it often breaks right at the cover.
 
Cannot believe that a dealer after adjusting the TPS - just tosses in the towel and wants you to purchase a new primary.... that's not going to fix a thing from what you have on-going/
Yeah it's disappointing that they really didn't diagnose anything and send a sled out the door after setting The TPS saying it's now in spec yet the sled won't idle or run the correct RPMs up top.
 
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