• I've received emails and PM's asking me about "Group Buys" and promotions.

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    http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269222

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    Have a great season.

    From this point on, all vendors/mfg's promoting Pre-Season tiered sales programs, in the Polaris Forums, that are not paid advertisers will be appropriately moved to the swapmeet section of the forums.

    MH

TPS check / adjust step by step.

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SRXSRULE

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Figured I would start a new post so all the info is in one place. This is the info for the guys that choose to do this on their own rather then taking it to the dealer and hoping they do it right.

Its likely gonna take ya an hour or two the first time you do it, there is a lot of stuff that needs to come off.

Remove side panels, hood, and dash, when removing the dash remove the 10mm screws from the ECU and leave the ECU in place and wiring hooked up. Then remove all the clips for the gas tank shroud, then lift up a couple inches and there is a single connector for the mode/select , hand warmers switch, its about 6" back from the switches. Then slide the shroud back from the steering post, pull the starter rope out a foot or 2 and then just lay that off to the side of the sled. Next remove the seat buy taking off the 4 10mm nuts on the seat mount, lifting it up off the studs and then slide straight back. Next is the fuel tank, remove the 2 10mm nuts at the back of the tank, unhook the wiring coming off the fuel pump, its a single connector about 6" in front of the tank. Remove 1 10mm screw on the left front of the tank, its up under the over structure right in front of the white tank vent (no hose on it is normal). Then carefully slide back the safety clips on the fuel lines, no tools require, just use your finger, release each side of the clip then slide back about a 1/8", then carefully pull the fuel lines straight up. A very small amount of fuel will leak out. Now lift the rear of the tank off the studs and slide tank back and remove from sled. Now you need to loosen the clamps on the air box going to the throttle bodies. It helps if you remove the belt and secondary clutch, but can be done with out removing the clutch. After loosening the hose clamps (1/4" socket) you can pull the air box back about 3/4" to get it free from the throttle bodies. Now you will be able to see the adjusting screw (2.5mm allen, 8mm jam nut) by slightly lifting up the air box and look between the bottom of the air box and the jack shaft. Its between the throttle bodies, closer to the PTO side. Now you need to unhook the throttle cable from the flipper, just go WOT and hold the cable with your other hand and you can push the cable out of the flipper. Next you need to go back to the adjusting screw, loosen the jam nut and then back it off 2-3 turns and make sure the screw is no longer touching the cam on the throttle shaft.
Now your ready to check your TPS settings :)
Next step is to provide 12volts to the ECU connector in front of the clutch cover near the upper shock mount. Apply B+ to the orange wire and ground to the black/blue wire. Now hook up a GOOD quality volt meter to the TPS connector, its in the bag right above the PTO spark plug. Its 3 wires, triangle connector, Black, Blue, Yellow. Leave the connector plugged in and carefully back probe the terminal between the wire and weather pack seal. If you dont have a back probe, use a very thin gauge paper clip unfolded. Put your black volt meter lead to ground, I use the chassis bolt with ground wires attached to it near the ECU connector you powered up. Put the red lead to the Yellow wire on the TPS connector and make sure you have 5.00-5.01 volts. If thats good, now move your back probe to the blue wire on the TPS connector. You should have something in the .690-.712 volt range, thats the spec for your BASE setting. Set this reading to exactly .700 , this is done by loosening the 2 screws on the TPS sensor which is on the MAG side throttle body. This is a very touchy adjustment and your reading will likely change slightly when you tighten the screws back up, you need to compensate for this change when adjusting, it needs to be .700 when tight. Double check the adjusting screw is NOT touching then cam on the throttle shaft, use a mirror if needed. Now that your BASE setting is correct you need to set the IDLE setting. This is done by turning the adjusting screw (2.5mm allen) back in, slowly turn that in until your voltage reading is .940 then tighten the 8mm jam nut while holding the 2.5mm screw. Your reading is going to increase and once again you need to compensate for this and make sure your at .940 when the jam nut is tight. Thats it, your DONE! Now you just need to put everything back together. Make sure the air box slides back onto the throttle bodies correclty, use a mirror if there is any doubt.
Hope that helps. Eric
 

mountainhorse

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Great Write-Up...thanks for putting this up here for all of us to benefit from....This is a great check to do... and adjustment if needed (MANY need it)

Figured I would start a new post so all the info is in one place. This is the info for the guys that choose to do this on their own rather then taking it to the dealer and hoping they do it right.

Its likely gonna take ya an hour or two the first time you do it, there is a lot of stuff that needs to come off.

Remove side panels, hood, and dash,
when removing the dash remove the 10mm screws from the ECU and leave the ECU in place and wiring hooked up.

Then remove all the clips for the gas tank shroud,
then lift up a couple inches and there is a single connector for the mode/select , hand warmers switch, its about 6" back from the switches.

Then slide the shroud back from the steering post, pull the starter rope out a foot or 2 and then just lay that off to the side of the sled.

Next remove the seat buy taking off the 4 10mm nuts on the seat mount, lifting it up off the studs and then slide straight back.

Next is the fuel tank, remove the 2 10mm nuts at the back of the tank, unhook the wiring coming off the fuel pump, its a single connector about 6" in front of the tank.
Remove 1 10mm screw on the left front of the tank, its up under the over structure right in front of the white tank vent (no hose on it is normal).

Then carefully slide back the safety clips on the fuel lines, no tools require, just use your finger, release each side of the clip then slide back about a 1/8", then carefully pull the fuel lines straight up. A very small amount of fuel will leak out.

Now lift the rear of the tank off the studs and slide tank back and remove from sled.

Now you need to loosen the clamps on the air box going to the throttle bodies. It helps if you remove the belt and secondary clutch, but can be done with out removing the clutch. After loosening the hose clamps (1/4" socket) you can pull the air box back about 3/4" to get it free from the throttle bodies.

Now you will be able to see the adjusting screw (2.5mm allen, 8mm jam nut) by slightly lifting up the air box and look between the bottom of the air box and the jack shaft. Its between the throttle bodies, closer to the PTO side.

Now you need to unhook the throttle cable from the flipper, just go WOT and hold the cable with your other hand and you can push the cable out of the flipper.

Next you need to go back to the adjusting screw, loosen the jam nut and then back it off 2-3 turns and make sure the screw is no longer touching the cam on the throttle shaft.

Now your ready to check your TPS settings :)
Next step is to provide 12volts to the ECU connector in front of the clutch cover near the upper shock mount.

Apply B+ to the orange wire and ground to the black/blue wire. Now hook up a GOOD quality volt meter to the TPS connector, its in the bag right above the PTO spark plug. Its 3 wires, triangle connector, Black, Blue, Yellow. Leave the connector plugged in and carefully back probe the terminal between the wire and weather pack seal. If you dont have a back probe, use a very thin gauge paper clip unfolded.

Put your black volt meter lead to ground, I use the chassis bolt with ground wires attached to it near the ECU connector you powered up.

Put the red lead to the Yellow wire on the TPS connector and make sure you have 5.00-5.01 volts.

If thats good, now move your back probe to the blue wire on the TPS connector.

You should have something in the .690-.712 volt range, thats the spec for your BASE setting.

Set this reading to exactly .700 , this is done by loosening the 2 screws on the TPS sensor which is on the MAG side throttle body. This is a very touchy adjustment and your reading will likely change slightly when you tighten the screws back up, you need to compensate for this change when adjusting, it needs to be .700 when tight.

Double check the adjusting screw is NOT touching then cam on the throttle shaft, use a mirror if needed.

Now that your BASE setting is correct you need to set the IDLE setting.

This is done by turning the adjusting screw (2.5mm allen) back in, slowly turn that in until your voltage reading is .940 then tighten the 8mm jam nut while holding the 2.5mm screw.

Your reading is going to increase and once again you need to compensate for this and make sure your at .940 when the jam nut is tight.

Thats it, your DONE!

Now you just need to put everything back together.

Make sure the air box slides back onto the throttle bodies correclty, use a mirror if there is any doubt.
Hope that helps. Eric
 

SRXSRULE

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Great Write-Up...thanks for putting this up here for all of us to benefit from....This is a great check to do... and adjustment if needed (MANY need it)

No problem. My sled was one that needed it. My sled would no longer stay idling on its own from a cold start up, plus I had the low idle issue even once warmed up.
My base setting was .723 and idle setting was .930, adjusting the base fixed my dieing problem but .930 ended up being just a little too low of an idle setting. I have since changed that to .940 and its working perfect now. Eric
 

mountainhorse

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I suspect that some variation in Fuel pressure... even if within factory tolerances... can also affect these sleds (all CFi Poo's).

No test port on the AXYS (or even from 2013 up).... So it's a PITA.

Poo has a test-port hose adapter for these sleds... would be easy to make one up though.

I'd be interested in seeing what your actual fuel pressure is.

Through the years... I've seen factory FPR's running as low as 52 psi and as high as 63 (58-psi, or 4-bar, is the designed pressure).

I was also surprised to see that Polaris is simply relying on the in tank pick up sock as the only fuel filter in the system...given the injector intolerance for debris or varnish....





.
 
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Indy_500

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Any suggestions on a good multimeter and 12 volt source? Don't think the free with coupon Harbor Freight one will cut it! Also when dialing in the TPS does going one direction (clockwise vs. counterclockwise in the "slot") increase decrease voltage? Thanks for posting.
 

SRXSRULE

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I second these questions

All you need is a 12volt battery, car, truck, lawn mower all would be fine to use.
As for the meter, I use a Fluke 88 but thats pretty high dollar if you dont use it all the time. I also have a Klein meter that I have for home use, its pretty good and would work fine for this. You can buy them at lowes for around 50 bucks. Eric
 

Visi

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Please excuse my ignorance but why and how do you know it will need to be adjusted? Actually thinking about jumping ship from Doo. Thanks.
 

SRXSRULE

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Please excuse my ignorance but why and how do you know it will need to be adjusted? Actually thinking about jumping ship from Doo. Thanks.


If the sled is hard to start (3-4 pulls), if it idles too low or too high, if its dies going into reverse or wont go into reverse, if your plugs look too lean or too rich.......this is one of the first places to start checking.

The TPS setting plays a huge role in fuel delivery and very small adjustments make a big difference.

Eric
 

trackvs2wheels

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Thanks for the information Eric! I adjusted my TPS today, took about 3 hours. Ripping the sled down and putting it back together is the easy part. The tough part is the damn idle set screw...dang they don't allow you access to that anymore!

Initial baseline was .710 so I adjusted to .700.

I used the battery from my truck to provide power to the ecm plug.

Note this is a somewhat different procedure than what I've used on my Pro's but it seems to have worked as the sled fires up and idles good...but it always did idle down at this elevation so the real test will be when I head up riding again.
 

Dirty Steve

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Mine hasn't been ridden yet, but I have started it 4 times and it has taken 3-4 pulls when cold, 2 when up to operating temp. I think I'm going to check mine before I head out for the first time. Kind of B.S. if you ask me.

So on the assembly line they must just set them up with the digital wrench and call it good? Seems like people baselines are all over the board.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
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SRXSRULE

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Thanks for the information Eric! I adjusted my TPS today, took about 3 hours. Ripping the sled down and putting it back together is the easy part. The tough part is the damn idle set screw...dang they don't allow you access to that anymore!

Initial baseline was .710 so I adjusted to .700.

I used the battery from my truck to provide power to the ecm plug.

Note this is a somewhat different procedure than what I've used on my Pro's but it seems to have worked as the sled fires up and idles good...but it always did idle down at this elevation so the real test will be when I head up riding again.

Did you have to make any changes to the idle setting or was it at .940 when you started?

That adjusting screw is in a crappy spot. I use a 1/4" drive 2.5mm allen socket with a 18" extension on it. I also have a 6"x6" inflatable air wedge that I use to hold the air box up out of the way for me. Ive done this job 3 times now and have it down to 35 minutes start to finish :) Eric
 

dexter

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Personally if your idling at proper rpm, not bogging, and no issues with stalling going into reverse, I would leave this alone. Tolerances on fuel pressures and injectors does play an important role in these voltages and what works perfect for one is not exactly perfect for another always. They are all somewhat close but there are variances. I've done more than one sled where these voltages didn't work at idle. And yes it was read with a calibrated fluke meter. Most do though.
 

trackvs2wheels

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Did you have to make any changes to the idle setting or was it at .940 when you started?

That adjusting screw is in a crappy spot. I use a 1/4" drive 2.5mm allen socket with a 18" extension on it. I also have a 6"x6" inflatable air wedge that I use to hold the air box up out of the way for me. Ive done this job 3 times now and have it down to 35 minutes start to finish :) Eric

I didn't read my idle setting before backing the idle set screw all the way out so I'm not sure what that reading was before my adjustment.

I was having issues with the sled idling up at elevation so much so that the gauge wouldn't even function...
 

Timbre

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Thoughts on TPS settings

So . . . having dealt with the low idle, dying when trying to use reverse, wouldn't stay running when started cold without feathering the throttle, low idle at elevation, wouldn't rev higher from 3/4 throttle to full throttle . . .and all those things others have mentioned, i took the sled to the dealer. Also took all the info originally posted by SRXSRULE.

The dealer found the following on the TPS on my sled:
Base was .708
Idle was set at .938.
They made adjustments "by the book" to the following.
Base changed to .697
Idle changed to .937.
Will this work as well as what was recommended above? (base .700 and idle .940)

Wondering if it has more to do with the "spread" of the numbers rather than the actual numbers themselves . . .? The spread was .230 at the start (.938 - .708 = .230) Now it is .240 (.937 - .697 = .240). The spread (.240) is the same as what it is using the recommended settings in the original post (.940 - .700 = .240)

Any thoughts on this . . ?
 

trackvs2wheels

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Eric...

Thanks again for the info man! I did another TPS adjustment last night and I can tell you it goes 10 times faster the second time when you know what you are doing:)

Here are some specs of before and after...

Idle Before: .947
Base Before: .716
Idle After: .941
Base After:.700

Note this sled was adjusted because it idled way worse than mine...when/if it idled that is. It also was really, really boggy on the bottom end! We will see if it fixed the issues next week when we head up again.
 

die hard poo

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I checked mine after issues idling when cold and needing a blip of throttle when starting warm.
Findings:
Idle before:.92v
Base before:.718v

Idle after:.94v
Base after:.70v

She now starts in the cold without needing to hold the throttle and doesn't require any throttle input when warm starting it. Problem fixed. I had this issue on my 2013 pro as well from the factory.

And I will say with the tighter fitting Axys chassis, and the one piece airbox makes taking it apart a bit of a chore, but I am sure I will get good at it like I did with the Pro.
 
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