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The ultimate Garage!!

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rmk685

Well-known member
Dec 4, 2007
237
68
28
I am working on finishing my 54x64 building. Has 14 foot sidewalls with a 10x10 door and a 12x18 door. Floor heat with full length floor drain. Putting bathroom with toilet, shower, and utility sink in it. When I laid piping for floor heat I ran waterlines in concrete from bathroom to front of building so I can have hot and cold water to wash stuff outside the building. Should have it done sometime later this winter.
 
Z
Nov 26, 2007
429
33
28
40
Sioux Falls, SD
Do an acid etch floor with epoxy sealant. You can do it yourself for about $0.35/sf and it will really make the shop pop visually. On top of looking cool, never worry about staining concrete with the epoxy sealant. A few hours of work over 3 days and you’re done.

concrete.jpg
 
N

nathaniel11

Member
Sep 26, 2003
474
20
18
Marshall, Mn
Do an acid etch floor with epoxy sealant. You can do it yourself for about $0.35/sf and it will really make the shop pop visually. On top of looking cool, never worry about staining concrete with the epoxy sealant. A few hours of work over 3 days and you’re done.


Zach is that your shop in the picture???
 
R

robertyoke

Well-known member
Dec 26, 2007
409
71
28
colorado
Run PVC air lines around the shop, easy to do and fairly cheap. I ran them around 3 walls of my old shop and had the female plugin about every 10 or 12 feet. You can buy everything at any hardware store.

This way I stored the air compressor in a closet and never had to listen to it.

I wouldnt use pvc, it can become shrapnel if impacted. I used 3/4 inch type m copper, back when copper wasnt an arm and a leg to buy, if i had to do it again I would use pex or some form of hdpe. Its much safer and way easy to install and less joints to fail/leak.


lets see, my check list.
large 40x80....check!
bathroom....check!
floor drains....check!
in wall air....check!
well insulated r19 and r38 ...check!
car/truck lift ...check!
high pressure metal halide lighting....check!
outlets everywhere including 220 for lift, welders...check!
over head beam hoist capable of 4000+ lbs ...check!
loft area to fill with all the crap you could ever not use but dont want to toss...check!






 

Skidoox600

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2007
389
89
28
I wouldnt use pvc, it can become shrapnel if impacted. I used 3/4 inch type m copper, back when copper wasnt an arm and a leg to buy, if i had to do it again I would use pex or some form of hdpe. Its much safer and way easy to install and less joints to fail/leak.


lets see, my check list.
large 40x80....check!
bathroom....check!
floor drains....check!
in wall air....check!
well insulated r19 and r38 ...check!
car/truck lift ...check!
high pressure metal halide lighting....check!
outlets everywhere including 220 for lift, welders...check!
over head beam hoist capable of 4000+ lbs ...check!
loft area to fill with all the crap you could ever not use but dont want to toss...check!







Nice shop.....

As for Air lines copper being $$$. Im in the HVAC industry so I see price changes daily and it isn't going anywhere.

Use Black Iron pipe. 3/4" is nice as it leave room for adding on.
Use ball Valves at the end of each run so disconnecting and a regulator. Looks really nice being straight, and is super tuff stuff. Little pipe dope on each thread and good to go.

AirCompressor001.jpg

AirCompressor004.jpg
 

Mafesto

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2007
12,260
10,365
113
Northeast SD
I agree on the black pipe.

But make sure you rinse the pipe with a good degreaser & pull a rag through it to remove cutting fluid & shavings from cutting the threads.

Also, don't use any couplers.
Spend a little more & use unions.
You will be happy when servicing or adding anything.
 
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