Suspension setup - What and how to?

[catothom]

I really want to learn more about my suspension on my 13 LTD 153.
Because I have fox shocks and stock suspension it is not that easy to get lost on the settings.
But I want to know more about what the different settings does.

Last season I run 65 in the fronts and 110 in the rear. Worked okay, but I flipped the sled over time after time going uphill coming out of wheelies.
Had none to almost no ski pressure going down trails.

So this season I`m running 110 in the front, and 150 in the rear.
Sled do not wheelie that much but do tend to trench a lot.
Now I have plenty of ski pressure, but not that much that it kills my arms riding.
Will drop the pressure to around 90 in front and try that for next ride.

Front shock in suspension is stock, haven`t been touched. Same with the limiter straps.
All stock there to.

What will happen if I tighten up the limiter strap a notch/loosing it up a notch, loosen the front skid shock or tighten it up?

 

[brantd]

i have 70 in my fronts,135 in the rear I haven't touched anything else,it does wheelie but not out of control,it will go vertical and want to go over backwards if you hit a step on the hill to help it,throttle control prevents that tho,its a 162 with a 920 BB,ski pressure on the trail out isn't all that bad,but maybe a tad heavy,but I like how it performs in the fluff so I leave it alone,make your adjustments in small increments,dont go to big to far at one time,its a pita and takes time but im guessing youll find the sweet spot.and make em on the hill in the air temp,elevation and riding conditions,ive never found a garage set up to work,even after taking someones advice of set ups,but I have found peoples advice to work when the sled is on the hill.also ovs makes a anti wheelie kit,easy install fair priced,6 or 7 different settings that quickly adjust,i don't run one but know a few that do and like it a lot!

tighten the limiter more ski pressure,loosen it and less ski pressure,look at how the limiter is wrapped in the arms,it becomes clear.
you could loosen the limter and load the shock more,or vice versa,there is a lot you can do with rear suspensions,i thinks many peoples issue is taking the time to actually mess around with it while out riding.

 

[ryan689]

catothom - try tightening up your front shock in your rear skid. Crack those big black nuts on the shock and tighten it up about half way and try that

 

[Snopro_69]

You do not want to tighten the front shock up in the skid if that's what your talking about?? It just will keep trenching in deep snow an never plane out. Front shock with spring pretty much loose an rear psi 135.

 

[Bacon]

I run 60 on front shocks, stock on rear forward shock and 140-150 in rear. I like the front shocks to collapse when I initiate a turn.

 

[Keith517]

If you want more ski pressure lighten up the limiter strap. The three holes in the limiter strap are quite a way apart, I typically like to drill a hole between the two existing holes so that the change is not so extreme. Like Snopro_69 said, you want to run your front skid shock loose, I set my limiter strap were I want it then back off the spring on the front skid shock until spring is loose, then tighten it back up just enough that the spring will not rattle around.

 

[Bushpilot]

on the limiter strap, Where is it set stock from arctic cat. I bought a used sled and limiter is sucked all the way up. trenches bad. Would like to go back to stock setting before messing with suspension.

 

[Snopro_69]

Middle hole

 

[Bushpilot]

Thanks Snopro

 

[gjp]

I really want to learn more about my suspension on my 13 LTD 153.
Because I have fox shocks and stock suspension it is not that easy to get lost on the settings.
But I want to know more about what the different settings does.

Last season I run 65 in the fronts and 110 in the rear. Worked okay, but I flipped the sled over time after time going uphill coming out of wheelies.
Had none to almost no ski pressure going down trails.

Your weight and style is a factor. The rear shock at 110 is very low, unless you are 140lb rider. 135lb is a good starting point for most riders. This will help keep the skis down on full throttle. I would leave the limiter/front shock at stock settings (limiter middle hole, shock spring pre-load 1/4 turn past slack)

Instructions for skid setup:
Make sure you have sled on its side (or rear lifted in the garage) with no pressure on the skid.

Front track shock (pre-load setting):
loosen the spring so you can wiggle the spring by hand (slack). Then tighten 1/4 turn so it snugs. Only 2-4 threads will be showing at the bottom. (this is 1/4 turn past slack)

IMHO: If you have more pre-load on the front spring / limiter middle hole, it will create a titter/totter effect and trench bad. (however, this can work with limiter is loosest hole)

Rear shock:
If you are a normal/big guy - pump it to 135lbs to start. If you are skinny as$ start with less. If you bottom out or wheelie too much add a bit more pressure. Adjust in 5 or 10 lbs at a time and compare.

Ski shocks:
Again, no pressure on shock you are adjusting - Tip sled on its side. 75lbs is good starting point. A good setup in powder may suck on the trail and vise/versa, so find a happy compromise. See how it initials a sidehill in powder. Remove pressure if you find it too tough to get on its side, more pressure etc..

My setup last year before KMOD skid:
rider: 250lb / bone-stock sled
skid: in lower 2013 holes (2012 uppers trenched bad with excessive ski pressure)
skis: 65-75lbs
limiter: middle
front shock preload: 1/4 turn past slack
rear: 150lb psi

 

[catothom]

Thank you for the setup. I`m 187 lbs with gear on so not a heavy guy. Long and slim. Like a tooth pick

I do like that the little wheelies but I don`t like it to go vertical when it`s not supposed to.
I want to be able to get some lift on the skis, but still be able so keep skis down on climbs and sidehills.


So letting the limiter straps out to, loosen the front shock almost all the way, drop the lbs in the rear shock and drop the lbs in front shocks?
How will the sled handle then?

 

[gjp]

... So letting the limiter straps out to, loosen the front shock almost all the way, drop the lbs in the rear shock and drop the lbs in front shocks?
How will the sled handle then?

I can't comment on this setup in 2013 holes; I tried limiter out with 2012 upper hole and it was not as nimble and still trenched.

Another setup to consider - Apex Jeff's setup
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3321072#post3321072

Here is how we set them up. 2013 153 or 162, place front cross shaft in upper rearmost hole, tighten limiter strap all the way, leave center shock(front in rear skid) at factory setting, leave rear cross shaft in lower hole, adjust rear shock to 115 for riders under 180 and 135 for 200 and heavier, add 5# at a time if bottoming, now stand back and notice how much attack angle is reduced, also lift rear of sled till paddles just leave garage floor, rails should be parallel to floor, this is a very neutral starting point for deep snow, gets sled on top easier and quicker and way less chance of stabbing a window, down pressure is just right and makes front skis way less darty on the trail. Most riders we find like the front shocks at 65# give or take. This setup puts the skid and transfer very close to 2014 positioning.

 

[BoxStock]

Learned something new this weekend. I rode with Bret Rasmussen this past weekend and he explained his setup. He keeps his limiter straps loose and limits the sled wheelie by more rear pressure. He told me that when you tighten your limiter strap it makes it harder to get your sled on edge or makes side hilling harder because the suspension doesn't come out as far. You give up some ride on the trail by doing this. I had tightened my 13 by 1/2 a hole. I am going to put it back and add pressure and try it. The sled did climb well with limiter moved 1/2 a hole.