supertips and shockwave Questions

[Ramond]

I have a 2008 nytro with a turbo on it, I got a supertips and a shockwave clutch kit from Dustin at Outlaw motor sports. I installed it and set it up per his instructions. For those who have this setup is there anything else I should check or watch for on this kit. I do notice that on the shockwave part that the helix may be sticking and not letting the secondary close all the way. I will put it up on the stand and run the engine, sometimes the secondary will close all the way and the belt will be at the proper heigth on the secondary, other times it will be lower like its not closing all the way. This makes me think that the shockwave part of the clutch is sticking a bit. Any ideas, thanks.
https://showbox.tools/

 

[roughrider99]

The shockwave helix is a great tuning tool, but the ramps on the SW are narrower, thus more pressure on the buttons, i never noticed sticking but there was definitely more wear, so checking the buttons/ramps for binding is a good place to start

 

[xpturbo600]

I run the Shockwave on my viper. It is awesome because you can tune the secondary backshift (and spring rate) around your choice of tip weight. I have not had any issue with it. The back of the ribs on my timken 825xs sit a millimeter or two below the edge of the secondary sheave. That is normal. Belt width determines the ride height in the yamaha clutch because there is no adjuster to set the secondary belt position. If you are way out of wack, then be worried. Belt failure issues typically arise from a helix bottoming out before full shift on the primary. I have not ran into this issue with my Shockwave. On a factory helix, milling a step to clear at full shift is sometimes required. You should be fine.

Also, if your not getting full backshift, you may need more secondary spring force to finish the shift. Without changing your secondary spring, increase your tip weight one step and put more angle in your helix. Repeat until you get full backshift. If you run out of spring rate, find a spring with a higher finish rate and a similar spread from initiation to finish. More helix angle means your taking away the helix's ability to stall the shift. Thus, your bringing the helix ramp angle more in line (parallel) with the jackshaft. Stalling the shift requires you decrease ramp angle so it is perpendicular to the direction of the jack shaft.

 

[motojunkie101]

I had the same setup on my Nytro and it worked really well. I agree with most of the above ^^^ The first things I would check are the buttons to see if they are worn out and how much spring pressure you have, the turbos seem to like a lot! The yamaha secondaries do have a way to adjust belt height but it doesn't sound like your problem. You can add or remove shims from the bolts on the back of the secondary...as the tips of those bolts wear down people usually end up pulling a shim/washer out to get the height back into spec. As they wear down though, your belt will start to ride too high in the secondary and you'll get some noise from the primary as it will start touching.