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Stuck primary clutch

BeartoothBaron

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If it's under warranty, then I'd generally agree to let them deal with it. If you know and trust the people working at your local dealer, then there too, I'd consider taking it to them if you can't get the clutch off. That said, a few years ago I took my clutch to a local dealer to have the wear items replaced. I got it back and someone had taken a heavy sander to the faces. Probably a new guy who had a very short career turning wrenches, but just one example of the type of person who may be working on your sled. I ended up with a new clutch out of the deal. Hopefully if that kind of abuse were being used to get a clutch off on warranty work, you'd get a new engine out of it under warranty, but worst case, it's quite possible to damage the crank bearings badly enough to cause premature failure, but a few years down the road.

On pullers, I've got an EPI brand puller and it's worked great. I've heard they're hit or miss though. SLP or the OE puller are the two I'd be looking at if the EPI puller fails. I grease up the threads – oil would probably work too, long as they're not dry – and use a breaker bar. A couple times I've had to tap downward on the puller, but never had any major drama.
 
A
Nov 26, 2007
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The best way to pull a clutch is the grease method as the OP found out. Fill the hole from the bottom up with grease, wrap a couple rounds of electrical tape on the threads and crank it in. Many times the clutch will pop before the puller ever bottoms out. The water method will work provided you can get a good seal on the threads but sometimes this takes several tries, the grease won't leak and will generally work on your first try.
 

Teth-Air

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The best way to pull a clutch is the grease method as the OP found out. Fill the hole from the bottom up with grease, wrap a couple rounds of electrical tape on the threads and crank it in. Many times the clutch will pop before the puller ever bottoms out. The water method will work provided you can get a good seal on the threads but sometimes this takes several tries, the grease won't leak and will generally work on your first try.

You really use electrical tape and not Teflon tape?
 

Keith517

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Nov 26, 2007
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Agreed, been using grease for 20 year on stuck clutches, every time a buddy calls with a stuck clutch and has been using the water method with no success we use grease, it has worked every time. I have never had to use a hammer or and impact gun (hard on crank bearings). Often times on a stubborn clutch I tighten down the puller, leave it over night and by morning it has popped off (leave the belt on to keep the clutch from falling on the ground).
The best way to pull a clutch is the grease method as the OP found out. Fill the hole from the bottom up with grease, wrap a couple rounds of electrical tape on the threads and crank it in. Many times the clutch will pop before the puller ever bottoms out. The water method will work provided you can get a good seal on the threads but sometimes this takes several tries, the grease won't leak and will generally work on your first try.
 
A
Nov 26, 2007
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Elko, NV.
I have always used electrical tape for a seal just because I look at my toolbox beside me and there it is, I'm sure teflon would also work fine with grease. With grease there is a little bit of a cleanup afterwards but at least it's off and your ready to go to work. I just used the method on my razor which hadn't had the primary removed in 5 years and 6,400 miles, came off real easy and they're torqued to 95 ft/lbs.!!!
 

damx

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I think it helps alot to re-torque your clutch bolt after you load/unload a new sled. I have seen a few clutches spin on the crank and almost weld them self together.
 

Sheetmetalfab

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……..
I think it helps alot to re-torque your clutch bolt after you load/unload a new sled. I have seen a few clutches spin on the crank and almost weld them self together.
True story.

I check/ retorque twice after a reinstall usually.

Clean the taper’s when it’s off.
 

BeartoothBaron

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The service manual for my old sled specifies re-torquing, and I'd be surprised if they took it out. "Re-torque clutch to specification after first period of operation (such as a test ride)." In my experience, it's not just a slight nudge either, it's usually around 1/8 of a turn to get back to spec. It may be that torquing once will hold more often than not, but you're inviting trouble to ignore it; if it spins, you're probably looking at a new clutch and crank...
 

Reg2view

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Torque to spec. Start motor on trackstand with the drive belt on. Rev to engage belt and spin track, 5-6k rpms, then hit brake as if stopping hard, no throttle, of course. Repeat 3-4 times. Shut her down and check torque. Out of the old race manuals...
 

turbolover

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I put the sled on it's side. Fill the clutch hole with water, tighten down the puller and go to bed.
The next morning I come out and pull it off with my hand.

of course that is if you have freezing temps overnight.
 
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