• .
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    A Group Buy here on SnoWestOnline.com would be a situation where a normal member (non vendor or mfg) personally collects orders from other members. That member then uses those orders to negotiate a better price with the Vendor/Mfg for HIS/HER "Group" of buyers.

    Here is an example of a viable "Group Buy"

    http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269222

    A promotion that has the words "Group Buy" in the title is still a promotion, and from the rules that were handed down to me by Harris Publications is that non-advertisers cannot run promotions or open sales programs on the forums outside of the swapmeet.

    If a members wants to become a group buy manager, maintain a thread and collect the funds and negotiate a group buy... as a member, you are welcome to do that as long as you are not attached to the business of the vendor or Mfg.

    If you are a vendor/MFG and you want to offer an EXCLUSIVE "SnoWestOnline ONLY" promotion that is exclusive to snowest readers, please contact me and you'll be able to put it up in the Polaris forums.

    Also, before any vendors/mfgs get all "riled up" over this know that the moderators are strictly volunteers and do not receive a dime from any advertising $$ spent on this site.

    As ALWAYS, since DAY ONE of me becoming a moderator, I have pioneered, supported and encouraged vendors and mfgs in getting the word out to our readers with "New Product Announcements.

    Have a great season.

    From this point on, all vendors/mfg's promoting Pre-Season tiered sales programs, in the Polaris Forums, that are not paid advertisers will be appropriately moved to the swapmeet section of the forums.

    MH

Silber charge tube

bryceraisanen

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Almost done installing a fresh kit on a 2018 rmk 800. Wondering how much I can cut off the charge tube b4 I run into issues?

I've cut about 3" off the engine side and 1" off the turbo side. Fits ok now, but my clamp is a little cockeyed where it hooks to the lower charge tube.

Initially when I hooked it up to the lower charge tube, it stuck out past the turbo a full 3" and was tight up top against wiring, overstructure, and throttle cable. I was debating putting a splice in the middle and using a Fernco lol.

Any pics u have to show coolant/oil line routing would be great!


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kmg

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Hmmm I don't remember cutting any off of mine at all.. weird. I never thought of it but I probably could cut a 1/4 off and it wouldn't be so close to my side panel.. the part your pinky is touching, touches my side panel. I ripped out all my foam in the side panels and put that reflective tape on the inside. I can pull my panel off and it's cool to the touch. I also wrapped from the turbo down in copper exhaust wrap
 

bryceraisanen

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View attachment 338470 View attachment 338471


Copper hi temp silicone and a new pipe / turbo donut.

Eliminate that future problem.
The new hose is stainless braided, where u have the foil tape.

My exhaust/turbo connection leaves a bit to be desired. For some reason the whole thing doesn't sit on the black bar and frame down low like it should (like the factory muffler). All of the weight is bearing on the belly pan rubber outlet flange. About a 1/4 inch gap between the hooks on the turbo/muffler and the support they're supposed to be sitting on.

Shouldn't it sit down inside the belly pan hole same as the factory muffler?


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Sheetmetalfab

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The new hose is stainless braided, where u have the foil tape.

My exhaust/turbo connection leaves a bit to be desired. For some reason the whole thing doesn't sit on the black bar and frame down low like it should (like the factory muffler). All of the weight is bearing on the belly pan rubber outlet flange. About a 1/4 inch gap between the hooks on the turbo/muffler and the support they're supposed to be sitting on.

Shouldn't it sit down inside the belly pan hole same as the factory muffler?


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You can fix the pipe to turbo connection alignment by loosening all your V bands and twisting the bov and 90* elbow together. (I also added a spring to the tab to help keep it there) = triple sprung.

Mine sat above the belly pan like that when first installed but keeping it tight to the belly pan is the most crucial element of not getting powder bog.
(It settled in after the first ride)

I’m guessing it bent the belly pan down a little.
 

kmg

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Where I'm pointing with my finger is where it touches side panel. Maybe your kit is different but I can't trim any silicone piping too twist the turbo back inside anymore to line up straight with the stock exhaust pipe. The piping is vertical on both ends so I'd have to take it out of the middle.
 

Attachments

tuneman

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I sent the OP these pics of my Silber. The fit is very poor. I originally even sent my turbo back to them, at my expense, to fix but they just gave me the run-around and sent it back with no change. The clamps originally leaked a ton until reassembled.

The flange at the belly pan didn't come close to fitting correctly, so I had to Fab a stainless sheet and rivet it to the belly pan to pull the muffler into alignment. I also had to add a spring at the turbo intake to further pull things into alignment. Turbo runs great now, but only with TRS clutching. Silber clutching was very poor. Would have returned it, but didn't have time to deal with that.
 

bryceraisanen

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Is it pretty much mandatory to use high temp sealant on the exhaust donuts? How about the one at the y pipe?
 
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