Sea Level Clutching

[stephengivensjr]

Hey everyone. I have a 15 800 RMK. I live here on the east coast so I dont see much elevation. The RMKs come stock with 8k ft clutching. I had put my 14 800 RMK down to 6k ft clutching and it ran good however I dont think the sled ever saw much over 3k ft elevation. What are peoples thoughts on this. Would it be much better performance for 95 percent of my riding clutched for 2000 ft, or am I really going to regret it if I take up for a run at say 4,000 feet elevation that one time and it will have no power?

 

[couch]

Ride at 1000' to 2500' and found that stock weights and spring ran much better set up ran much better than low elevation kit. 12% better on fuel and more fun. No big issue with det.

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[aktnr]

I just got a kit from a2d in Anchorage, ak for my 14. I ride at about 2k elevation and never had any issues really with the stock clutching but others around here have seen good results with the lower clutching so I decided to try it out. Nice thing about a2d kit it's it comes with slp magnum force weights. Adjustable by just taking off side panel. So if you lose power at higher elevation, just pull panel and use Allen wrench to take some weight out. About 5min to adjust.

 

[stephengivensjr]

I've been through a couple machines since this one but I did notice some difference going a couple sizes down on the weights. I went with the 4 - 6 k feet elevatrion clutching i beleive and found that the machine pulled harder than the stock 8 - 10 k feet elevation. This was about the same with a second machine 2015, noticed a small difference in the pull off the line.

 

[stephengivensjr]

I guess technically it is up a couple sizes as going down with the elevation is heavier weights.

 

[BeartoothBaron]

Mine is clutched for around 10K, and it'll hit the rev limiter at 4K where I live. It works pretty well where I typically ride; some days it'd do better with more weight, but I haven't got around to buying some heavier weights. You might be in the overrev range a little with the 4-6k clutching. If you've got some hills you can pull (next season, obviously), do a long straight pull and see where RPM stabilizes. If it's much over 8300, and definitely if it's pushing 8400, add some weight. Arguably, if you're going to pick a weight and stick with it, you want the one that gets you in the range on the warmest day at the highest elevation you ride (7950-8250; I think I read the most power is closer to the top of that range, but it drops off quick if you overhsoot). You definitely have a lot to gain over the 8-10k setup, but you might not find enough to be worth messing around over the 4-6k setup. That said, there's almost always something to be gained over stock clutching; a lot of it depends on how much you want to squeeze every bit out of it, or if "works ok" is good enough.