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Safe octane - turbo apex

J
Mar 17, 2021
12
5
3
Manitoba, Canada
Hey all. Picked up an 06 Yamaha apex with a Boondocker side mount turbo. Motor is shimmed.

I’m mainly running at 1000ft above sea level, and have access to 91 octane (about 5.65/gallon) and 100LL (about 7.55/gallon). Race fuels $22/gallon so not really an option.

What is safe boost numbers for 91 and 100LL?54D6EEA4-A6BD-424A-A215-6C211BF7BF41.jpeg
 

mysledblows

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2007
480
67
28
Minnesota
Not apples to apples as mine was stock compression but I ran it for years at a similar elevation to you running 3 gallons of 91 and 2 gallons of c12. Being shimmed, if you keep the boost in check you might get by with fresh 91 and a decent octane booster.
 
J
Mar 17, 2021
12
5
3
Manitoba, Canada
I was running 15-17lbs on 100LL, but at moment I’m running 8lbs on 91 and it’s been fine.

I’m sure I could venture higher on 91, but tbh it has plenty of power as is for my ride style.
 
J

jim

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
1,014
635
113
Boise
Been around those front mount Apexes for years. They are awesome. But watch your long pulls when it comes to the octane...they tend to heat soak, even with a front mount air exchange intercooler, and the longer the pull, the more risk you have with detonation. Also, watch your brakes! They can overheat with the proximity to the turbo...have seen twice where the brake got hot and closed up the calipers, causing serious overheating...one time started a fire we were able to put out. Just a heads up if your brakes are spongy or feel odd.
 
X
Oct 8, 2009
310
199
43
Read into each response with some realization that elevation and temp plays a big roll in how much is too much. My friend got away with 16 psi from 8000 to 9000 feet and 17 above 9000 feet with the 0.063 thousands shim on 50:50 pump race mix, totaling roughly 100 octane. If you run an 0.080 thousands shim you can get away with a little more at 17 below and 18 psi above at 100 octane (straight av). Keeping things simple, if you drop to sea level, you need to take roughly 4 to 5 psi out of it from what you run at 9000 feet, depending on baro. Baro, which is absolute pressure, at 10,000 feet is roughly 10 psi and baro at sea level is roughly 14.7 psi. Keep in mind, the boost values are in weather where the temperature differential is greatest, meaning the temperature on any given day was no higher than the mid 20s fahrenheit. If in spring snow where the air temp is in the 30s or 40s, take a pound or two out of it to avoid detonation since the intercooler looses efficiency as the delta between air temp and boost temp drops. If you have race gas at 110 or higher, then you are safe up to 20 psi on a boondocker kit with the head shim. I have seen a little more on occasion at high elevations with race gas, but then you are at risk of the motor blowing up if the engine isn't built with stronger rods and pistons. In the end, if you have a built motor, then race is great. If your on stock internals, you are not able to really get the benefit much past 100 octane since most motors won't take the beating for long durations.

As noted, 17 is a great threshold for keeping things together. The other thing to watch is making sure you are using the RPM the apex wants. Make sure at full throttle the clutch trims out at 10,500 RPM to 10,600 RPM, and over revs stay below the limiter somewhere around 10,750 from memory. Past that, you may hear the motor pop and possibly damage the motor on high boost as the computer hits the rev limiter. If you lug the motor, you are more likely to detonate or bend a rod at higher boost. And, the sled won't feel like it is running hard at the higher boost numbers. Lastly, the same principles apply if you are running pump gas or no head shim (stock compression). But you would need to get the top numbers from someone who has ran it that way or call boondocker to see if they have a recommendation. Good luck.
 
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