rmsha Q's?
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Racer220
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rockymountainqueen
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I would definantly start out in semi-pro. My husband and I both started racing this year and he jumped right into pro and wow was that an eye-opener. After the first race, he dropped down to semi-pro, and although there are still some awesome racers, he can at least compete a little closer with them.
Here are some things we learned this year....
-You can always find race-ready up sleds this time of year at pretty good prices, as many of the racers are selling them to make room for next years model. This is great if you are just starting out because you dont have to go out and buy all of the extra stuff you need on the sled to race. We just picked up an Assault last week, completely set up to race with only 170 miles on it from a well known pro for $7400
-If you are going to run semi-pro, don't worry about getting a turbo sled or a sled with nitrous, as you can't race those in semi-pro.
-Personally I would focus on making the suspension on your sled as sweet as possible. I think you get the most return from a sled by having your suspension set up perfectly...ie re-valving shocks, buying after-market shocks and making other adjustments. You can always work on performance later when funds are available
-Be prepared for the expense....This sport is super expensive, especially if you live far away from the races. Most of the races this year were in Eastern Idaho/ Western Wyoming. For us, it was a minimum of a three day trip. Unless you have the money to spend, try to find ways to cut costs....stay in your trailer one night, bring food from home, carpool, etc.
-Have some savings set aside in case of trouble, you blow a shock, need belts, a-arms
-Try to find sponsors to help deflect the cost. You would be suprised at the businesses that will give you money or other help in exchange for their company logo on your trailer and sled.
-Traction is key! When you get your sled, you must have screws for almost all of the races. We started out with some from studboy, they did pretty good for most of the races. For some of the races like Afton you need more aggressive screws. I recommend cold cutters. They are a little more expensive but are twice as aggressive. If you are going to run improved stock or mod you can also use titanium paddles, which are about $200 for 10, so they are very expensive as well, but they work
-Start practicing as soon as you can. Find somewhere that you can pound in a course and hammer it. Even if it starts getting trenchy and rocks start showing keep riding it because that is what you will be riding. If you practice on nasty hills, then hopefully when you race it will be a piece of cake!
My husband and I both love this sport. We have met some of the most generous, fun people while at the races. Most everybody is open to helping out another racer. Just be prepared that this sport isn't for everyone, and it is not as easy as it looks on the videos! If you have any more questions, just send me a pm and i will try to help you as much as possible
Here are some things we learned this year....
-You can always find race-ready up sleds this time of year at pretty good prices, as many of the racers are selling them to make room for next years model. This is great if you are just starting out because you dont have to go out and buy all of the extra stuff you need on the sled to race. We just picked up an Assault last week, completely set up to race with only 170 miles on it from a well known pro for $7400
-If you are going to run semi-pro, don't worry about getting a turbo sled or a sled with nitrous, as you can't race those in semi-pro.
-Personally I would focus on making the suspension on your sled as sweet as possible. I think you get the most return from a sled by having your suspension set up perfectly...ie re-valving shocks, buying after-market shocks and making other adjustments. You can always work on performance later when funds are available
-Be prepared for the expense....This sport is super expensive, especially if you live far away from the races. Most of the races this year were in Eastern Idaho/ Western Wyoming. For us, it was a minimum of a three day trip. Unless you have the money to spend, try to find ways to cut costs....stay in your trailer one night, bring food from home, carpool, etc.
-Have some savings set aside in case of trouble, you blow a shock, need belts, a-arms
-Try to find sponsors to help deflect the cost. You would be suprised at the businesses that will give you money or other help in exchange for their company logo on your trailer and sled.
-Traction is key! When you get your sled, you must have screws for almost all of the races. We started out with some from studboy, they did pretty good for most of the races. For some of the races like Afton you need more aggressive screws. I recommend cold cutters. They are a little more expensive but are twice as aggressive. If you are going to run improved stock or mod you can also use titanium paddles, which are about $200 for 10, so they are very expensive as well, but they work
-Start practicing as soon as you can. Find somewhere that you can pound in a course and hammer it. Even if it starts getting trenchy and rocks start showing keep riding it because that is what you will be riding. If you practice on nasty hills, then hopefully when you race it will be a piece of cake!
My husband and I both love this sport. We have met some of the most generous, fun people while at the races. Most everybody is open to helping out another racer. Just be prepared that this sport isn't for everyone, and it is not as easy as it looks on the videos! If you have any more questions, just send me a pm and i will try to help you as much as possible
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Racer220
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Best thing to do would be going to a race and see how things run. As far as competing without getting into it full bore, sign up at one of the races that holds an amateur or locals class. Bear Lake held a locals race that went up the Semi-Pro course. That would give you a taste of what setup you need and how different the riding style is compared to freeriding.
07
btw....RMQ you aren't part of that crazy 'Ransom Racing' crew are you??
R
rmk_racer
Member
RMSHA gives ISR rule books to members, you can also buy them from SLP.
Tethers and clutch guards are required on all sleds, as well as a snow flap that is 1 inch wider than the tunnel (each side I think) and touches the ground. The clutch guard is usually an aluminum piece that attaches to the side panel.
Improved and mod sleds must have some type of belting/guard below the clutches also. Mod sleds need a small guard over the brake as well.
You'll need tunnel/heat exchanger protectors is you want to run screws in the track.
Stock pretty much means stock this year, no after market parts.
Improved: you can change skis, shocks, and do motor work and pipes.
Mod: suspensions like EZ-Ryde, nitrous, turbos.
These are ISR/RMSHA rules, don't know what will apply to a locals class. Guess you'd at least want a tether. I'll try to find out tonight.
S
Tethers and clutch guards are required on all sleds, as well as a snow flap that is 1 inch wider than the tunnel (each side I think) and touches the ground. The clutch guard is usually an aluminum piece that attaches to the side panel.
Improved and mod sleds must have some type of belting/guard below the clutches also. Mod sleds need a small guard over the brake as well.
You'll need tunnel/heat exchanger protectors is you want to run screws in the track.
Stock pretty much means stock this year, no after market parts.
Improved: you can change skis, shocks, and do motor work and pipes.
Mod: suspensions like EZ-Ryde, nitrous, turbos.
These are ISR/RMSHA rules, don't know what will apply to a locals class. Guess you'd at least want a tether. I'll try to find out tonight.
S
Racer220
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You have to buy the ISR book, I don't think it is available to read online.
Basics for safety (sled and person) - -
tether switch
snowflap that hits the ground when rider is sitting on sled
tekvest (or something similar that wraps around sides - no motocross vests)
knee/shin guards
boots that come 6" up from ankles (basically any riding boot)
HELMET
If your sled has changed in anyway from stock-out of the box chances are you will need at least the clutch protection that's required for Improved Stock i.e. Covers the top circumference of the clutches and sides down to the center bolt of each, and belting is recommended around the whole perimeter of the clutches. There are many ways to do this, a lot of guys just fab a side cover that rivets to the side panel. Lots of specifics I am not sure if they look as hard for them in a locals class. I have heard sleds still have to conform to ISR anyway. Get on RMSHA's website under Beaver Mountain and there should be a contact number to see if you can still sign up.
07
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vedward29
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Sorry for all the questions but thanks for all your input. it helps with trying to convince my wife that this is somethine i want to get into. one more question seeing that i'm looking at a hillclimb sled now. in the semi pro class its 0-1000cc all running together, would it be in ones best interest to run a 1000cc motor or would a finely tuned 800 or 600 do just as well? i'm sure a lot of it comes down to the riders ability to navigate the hill well.
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Racer220
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That's a dang good question actually. I am bumping up to an 8 for 2010. There is just way too much competition to try and keep up on anything less. 600 is out of the question and 700's still just don't have the power to keep up on any of the longer pulls You could run a 1000, but with the restrictions on mods it would have to be an OEM motor if you wanted to do anything besides mod class. I have been proven wrong plenty of times, but if I had 'suggest' anything about size I would say a good running 8 is key.
07
