LOL! Last year everyone is like "I don't want a light front end, it's unstable and bad in the backcountry" now TS comes out with the Riot and it's all about the light front end.Oh trust me, the riot is way more fun than the cmx (at least the 18 kits) but none the less a phenomenal kit you have.
LOL! You may want to look at TS marketing for the Riot...The single arm rear suspension was not designed to be a wheelie machine, the design goal was a rear suspension skid that would follow ground contour better than a two arm system. And, I think it has that potential, just got to find the right combination. I built 4 kits from scratch and under estimated the requirements for the shocks. I built the first 4 fox shocks for these kits with way toooo soft springing and valving, wouldn't really go through the snow that great but good for wheelies. We used 2013 cat skids for those kits and in the end had to use the same spring rates as the sleds when stock and even with crappy tracks we improved the through the snow go considerably.
I set my Riot so the track is absolutely parallel to the Floor., measure with caliper or machinist rule, what looks parallel often isn't so, Then a 1/2 turn longer on the strut. On the trail that's a little busy, so I increased my front shock preload to get back to abut a neutral handling situation.Also, after looking through my manual, and not finding the info, what is the recommended strut length?
I haven't checked my strut length like that, I set it at the recommendation in the book. I will check this when I get home. I'll be sure to look for the forks next time I'm out. When it did seem to have enough traction to take off, it was an awkward position to be hanging on. I'd be sitting between the neutral part of the seat and the back. About where I'd be sitting to do a pivot wheelie on dirt. I'll try these few things. Thanks for the help.If you are getting stuck on take off that has nothing to do with float, you need to get the weight off the ski and on to the track to get moving first. Try adding the preload back on the center shock and reduce preload on the rear. Is your strut short enough so the front paddles barely touch down before the back?
One tuning trick is to watch your forks when you first let out the clutch, if you are set up right you should see the forks extend when you let it out. Your comment "leaning back makes it better" is key that you don't have enough weight on the track for traction. Forget about floating that doesn't happen until 2nd gear or higher. Get it to go first then tune for float speed as conditions permit. Grease those threads on the rear shock and leave the lock nut loose and you can adjust it on the fly just as easy as clickers on the LE.