I've received emails and PM's asking me about "Group Buys" and promotions.
A Group Buy here on SnoWestOnline.com would be a situation where a normal member (non vendor or mfg) personally collects orders from other members. That member then uses those orders to negotiate a better price with the Vendor/Mfg for HIS/HER "Group" of buyers.
A promotion that has the words "Group Buy" in the title is still a promotion, and from the rules that were handed down to me by Harris Publications is that non-advertisers cannot run promotions or open sales programs on the forums outside of the swapmeet.
If a members wants to become a group buy manager, maintain a thread and collect the funds and negotiate a group buy... as a member, you are welcome to do that as long as you are not attached to the business of the vendor or Mfg.
If you are a vendor/MFG and you want to offer an EXCLUSIVE "SnoWestOnline ONLY" promotion that is exclusive to snowest readers, please contact me and you'll be able to put it up in the Polaris forums.
Also, before any vendors/mfgs get all "riled up" over this know that the moderators are strictly volunteers and do not receive a dime from any advertising $$ spent on this site.
As ALWAYS, since DAY ONE of me becoming a moderator, I have pioneered, supported and encouraged vendors and mfgs in getting the word out to our readers with "New Product Announcements.
Have a great season.
From this point on, all vendors/mfg's promoting Pre-Season tiered sales programs, in the Polaris Forums, that are not paid advertisers will be appropriately moved to the swapmeet section of the forums.
Anyone know who makes a rear suspension drop bracket for a 01 rmk? Interested in looking at one maybe possibly just making one. Maybe someone has one on their sled and can send me pictures for reference?
If I remember right (it was like 8 years ago...) I dropped mine down and back like 1.5" and put a longer track on it. On the front I used a rivet hole on the existing bracket, just drilled it out for the bolts. On the rear I had to use new brackets and just made sure it was the same down n back measurement that the front hole was....
I LOVED the change. The sled popped up on the snow better, assuming because of the lower angle of attack. It rode smoother on the trails. And handled better off trail.
I only went from a 136x2" to a 141x2" so I don't think the handling changed any with the track change. It was all in the skid change.
Well I put a 159 on my sled and I'm having issues when the back of track comes all the way up like when loading on the trailer my track hits somewhere and I smoke belts and I was running a 2 inch track before and never had this problem now it's a longer track and I do
Rear sag is normally caused by worn torsion springs. I just replaced mine from my dealer for $120 for the .405/77 degree springs. Stiffest springs you can buy for this sled. I was going to go with the .385 springs but they were $180 for the set!
If you need the part number let me know and I can grab it for you.
As far as the belts smoking... Check your belt deflection on your clutches. You may possibly need shims on your secondary to align the primary and secondary correctly... Any straight edge should help you determine deflection. In your service manual it shows you how to do it properly.
Let me get that part number. As far as my clutching goes I just serviced them both and aligned them before I rode this last time. My track bound up somewhere and it got stuck. It is also set pretty lose which may have something to do with it. When it's on level ground all is fine.
Sweet thank you. One more question. When you used the drop brackets did you do the front of the track as well? A lot of what I've read online says if you don't that your sled will be uncontrollable. To me this seems strange that it would cause that much of an issue and I generally stay off the trail and in deep snow (that's why it has a159 on it now). I can't imagine the ski pressure being completely intolerable for the amount of time I'm on an actual trail.
The main reason people tend to drop down and go back is because they usually need the clearance for the tunnel so the track doesn't hit it, especially over bumps and things of the like and it helps the approach angle so it's not so harsh. The bigger the angle of approach the more you will tend to trench the machine. The local guys here who do skid swaps regularly say they always move the track down and back equally on the front and rear..
Okay i see. I think before I do anything to crazy with new brackets and such I'll move down one hole in the rear stock bracket and ride this weekend and see how it goes. If I don't like it I'll relocate the skid down and back equally.