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Question regarding oil injection

S

SpencerA

Member
I just got a 97 XLT 600 and I was wondering if anyone removes the stock oil injection? I have a hard time trusting that it will always work and if it fails then I'm out a motor. So is it pretty straight forward on removing it or do I have to do any special mods?
 
injection

SLP makes a plate to cover the hole in the block where the oil pump attaches. Just remove the pump and cover the hole. You should cap the injector adapters on each cylinder as well.
 
Do many people do this or are the injectors reliable? The only reason I was thinking of removing them was because of failing issues.
 
I haven't seen injection failures in many years... I would leave it on.

When the domestic motors came out Polaris made a change that if the pump fails it goes full rich. The XLT doesn't have this benefit.

But since the mid to late 80s I've not seen more than one or two injection failures.

sled_guy
 
So how does the injection work? Does the oil go directly into each carb or into the cylinder? And is it normal that my sled goes through a full bottle of oil in one tank of gas?
 
The oil injection system...

Spins off the crank.... that varys with the rpm of the engine...

This varying the amout of oil the engine gets..

Looking at the oil lines coming off the pump you should see one going to each carb.. and probally two going to the bottom end to keep the crank bearing lubed..


I trust this oil system... i would leave it on!


It sounds like you need to adjust the oil cable.. looking at where the oil cable connects to you will see two little lines these need to line up when at idle.. this is a base line setting....


if you are still going through a tank of oil each tank of gas u have a bigger problem... u will have to measure out the gas and oil to find your ratio that it is pumping then start to lean off the oil to the right mix...



Hope i didn't go over your head....

Any more ???'s

Thanks NAPAMATT
 
The pump is driven off the crank, either by the water pump belt on big blocks or the shaft that's driven by the crank on the small blocks. The output varies also with the throttle cable that splits for each carb and one line to a lever on the oil pump. The lever opens/closes a valve that allows more or less oil to be delivered by the pump as you move the throttle. I'm not sure how much the oil delivery actually changes with RPM as we're talking relatively low flow rates. Try watching how long it takes for the air bubbles to be bled out the first time you start a motor that's been tore down, even with the lever held all the way open.

Napa Matt is talking about a reference line on the pump and lever that the Polaris manual tells you how to set. You can lean or richen your oil delivery by how you adjust the throttle cable stop. Hard to see on the small blocks as it's under the carbs on the block. Big block is on the recoil right out in the open to see.
 
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