Primary will not come off

[ecyr123]

I have a 2016 m8000 I can not get my primary clutch off. I'm using the correct clutch puller slp recommends. I'm using a cheater bar and I'm nervous To tighten it anymore. Anyone else have issues like this? I tried tapping on the tool after I tightened it and still will not come loose.

 

[Allseasons]

Impact the chit out of it, then I usually take I dead blow hammer and just using the weight of the hammer I tap the clutch inward, and the banging of the clutch back out is usually enough to get it to pop. Pretty sure mine had lock tite on it from factory

 

[sno*jet]

i havent pulled my cat clutch yet but on my polaris, i turned sled on side, poured some water in the hole, then put the puller to it using my dewalt electric impact. thats all it took. impact is key. you could buy one at home depot then return it if on a budget.
i stripped one out once using a cheater bar, no bueno.
dont bash on your crank too hard.

 

[up-high]

If its cold, tip the sled on its side and pour a little water in the hole. Screw puller in tight. Let freeze. Should come off without beating on the end of the crank.

 

[matt159]

i havent pulled my cat clutch yet but on my polaris, i turned sled on side, poured some water in the hole, then put the puller to it using my dewalt electric impact. thats all it took. impact is key. you could buy one at home depot then return it if on a budget.
i stripped one out once using a cheater bar, no bueno.
dont bash on your crank too hard.

^ This... but maybe need an air impact if it's really stuck... & maybe also need some teflon thread tape to slow down the water escaping down the threads if its REALLY REALLY stuck...

 

[summ8rmk]

I always use an impact gun. Never had a problem.
FYI, a good electric impact is twice as powerful as a pneumatic gun, Literally!

Mountain Cat

 

[jcropper]

I have a 2016 m8000 I can not get my primary clutch off. I'm using the correct clutch puller slp recommends. I'm using a cheater bar and I'm nervous To tighten it anymore. Anyone else have issues like this? I tried tapping on the tool after I tightened it and still will not come loose.

Heat it with a torch a little heat goes a long way and you dont have to force anything

 

[boondocker97]

With pullers I grease the threads and but a small dab on the end, tighten them up good with a 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar, 3-4 light taps on the end with a hammer, re-tighten a little more, 3-4 more taps and they usually pop. After that put some heat to it. Never done the water, oil, or grease in the hole before.

 

[Old & slow]

I have a 2016 m8000 I can not get my primary clutch off. I'm using the correct clutch puller slp recommends. I'm using a cheater bar and I'm nervous To tighten it anymore. Anyone else have issues like this? I tried tapping on the tool after I tightened it and still will not come loose.

If you follow what boondocker 97 said it will come off and you wont damage anything. The OEM pullers are designed to be hit with a hammer. Tapping may work but don't be scared to give it a solid blow with a 2/3 lb sledge. I have pulled many clutches and never had to use an impact or pour water in the hole. A little heat goes a long way with aluminium.

 

[kiliki]

Most clutch bolts are 1/2" 12 point sockets except for the m1000 and 10 up M8 is a T-60
1, remove belt
2, insert pry bar threw primary in a location not on a sliding surface of the spider
3, remove bolt
4, tip sled up on exhaust side so clutch is facing up in the air.
5, wrap puller with Teflon tape in a clockwise direction looking from the tip with a generous wrap
6 with pry bar inserted into the clutch and resting against the secondary fill the clutch bolt hole with WATER.
7 run puller in as fast as you can until you hear the clutch pop.
8 after servicing the clutch spray air or a light oil into the end of the crank to remove leftover water to prevent rust and tip crank side down and let drain.
9 clean out side of crank and re install clutch torquing clutch bolt to 55 ft lbs.
10 after first ride re torque.

on the m1000 just use the clutch bolt instead of a puller and wrap with Teflon tape and use the same steps.

No hammer needed and most of the time the bolt never even hits the crank, you can do this with grease but water is so much easier to clean out of your clutches.
about a 2 beer job!

 

[ecyr123]

Thanks guys I'll give that a try. I tried an impact that didn't work, I'll try that and water. I've only see. I've pulled many clutches off and usually it's not too hard.

 

[armey37]

Water and Teflon tape works every time!

 

[northof40]

Most clutch bolts are 1/2" 12 point sockets except for the m1000 and 10 up M8 is a T-60
1, remove belt
2, insert pry bar threw primary in a location not on a sliding surface of the spider
3, remove bolt
4, tip sled up on exhaust side so clutch is facing up in the air.
5, wrap puller with Teflon tape in a clockwise direction looking from the tip with a generous wrap
6 with pry bar inserted into the clutch and resting against the secondary fill the clutch bolt hole with WATER.
7 run puller in as fast as you can until you hear the clutch pop.
8 after servicing the clutch spray air or a light oil into the end of the crank to remove leftover water to prevent rust and tip crank side down and let drain.
9 clean out side of crank and re install clutch torquing clutch bolt to 55 ft lbs.
10 after first ride re torque.

on the m1000 just use the clutch bolt instead of a puller and wrap with Teflon tape and use the same steps.

No hammer needed and most of the time the bolt never even hits the crank, you can do this with grease but water is so much easier to clean out of your clutches.
about a 2 beer job!

Use this exact method. Works every time, and is easier on your crank bearings! Only change I would make is step 10. Rev sled up to 45-5000 rpm a couple times before riding then re torque. It will tighten up more then, and be good to go after that.

 

[kiliki]

not so much a rpm deal as it is the heating of the clutch and crank.

 

[Chewy22]

Most clutch bolts are 1/2" 12 point sockets except for the m1000 and 10 up M8 is a T-60
1, remove belt
2, insert pry bar threw primary in a location not on a sliding surface of the spider
3, remove bolt
4, tip sled up on exhaust side so clutch is facing up in the air.
5, wrap puller with Teflon tape in a clockwise direction looking from the tip with a generous wrap
6 with pry bar inserted into the clutch and resting against the secondary fill the clutch bolt hole with WATER.
7 run puller in as fast as you can until you hear the clutch pop.
8 after servicing the clutch spray air or a light oil into the end of the crank to remove leftover water to prevent rust and tip crank side down and let drain.
9 clean out side of crank and re install clutch torquing clutch bolt to 55 ft lbs.
10 after first ride re torque.

on the m1000 just use the clutch bolt instead of a puller and wrap with Teflon tape and use the same steps.

No hammer needed and most of the time the bolt never even hits the crank, you can do this with grease but water is so much easier to clean out of your clutches.
about a 2 beer job!

Just did this! Worked perfect....

 

[snowcannon]

Used the water method for the first time tonight as well. Works very nice. Lots of Teflon is key.

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[Plunkitt]

spent over an hour with Les Schwab Truck Center's 400 ft-lb+ air gun and a dead blow beating the crap out of it. layed her up on the side, poured some water in, wrapped puller in Teflon tape, and first hit with the impact she shot off! works perfect thank you!

 

[summ8rmk]

700lb ft tightening, 1,100lb ft loosening.
Just a dab of grease on threads and tip of puller, pops off in seconds.

Mountain Cat

 

[boondocker97]

spent over an hour with Les Schwab Truck Center's 400 ft-lb+ air gun and a dead blow beating the crap out of it. layed her up on the side, poured some water in, wrapped puller in Teflon tape, and first hit with the impact she shot off! works perfect thank you!

Be careful when using the hammer so you don't damage the crank bearings or crank. Beating the crap out of it isn't exactly the best approach.

 

[Plunkitt]

Be careful when using the hammer so you don't damage the crank bearings or crank. Beating the crap out of it isn't exactly the best approach.

Exactly the reason I stopped. In all my years of wrenching on sleds I've never had one stick like this. Usually can take a 3lb maul and hit once or twice and she pops off. The tape and water works. Didn't have to let it freeze either

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