Primary stuck

[Geartech]

So finally got the correct puller for my 09 dragon 800 and the primary appears to be stuck.
Nickle anti seize on the threads and tip of the puller where it contacts the end of the crank.

Put enough pressure on the puller to bend the very end section of the puller shaft slightly. Tried a little heat on the inner sheave as well as tapping the end of the puller shaft to create a shock to maybe release the taper , didn't want to hit it to hard as its on the crank .

Anything else I might try, might just have to invest in an IndyDan puller if all else fails.
Kinda wish I knew more about how the previous owner had installed the primary and even if one of Indys pullers would even pull it.
Thanks guys.

 

[xpturbo600]

Apply more force is the only answer. You could also try the water trick. You can you tube "clutch removal using water." Fluid is incompressible, so sealing fluid behind the first run of threads and cranking down the clutch bolt will allow you to push the clutch off by forcing water passed the clutch crank interface.

 

[Geartech]

Gonna try the hydraulic method, if not I'll just put the spring and weights on it installed then go thru the motor next spring and try to get it off then.
Haven't seen the method using the clutch bolt , saw a couple videos of using the puller and fluid , sealing the threads to pop it off.
I like the clutch bolt method better, seems like it has a better chance of getting it off as long as I get it filled and sealed correctly.

 

[retiredpop]

You will have to use a bolt other than the clutch bolt if you don't use the puller. Get a 3/4 x 16 pitch bolt about 4 inches long.

 

[TRS]

I have always been very particular of how I pull my clutch. Any clutch. I never use an impact.
A couple years ago I had a very stubborn clutch, Ruined 3 pullers.
I had my dealer call Polaris, the tech on the other end said: “If the clutch doesn’t pop tap the side of the puller with your ratchet, spin the clutch 90* and try it again until it does”.
I lightly tapped the puller and it popped. ?

 

[Geartech]

Ya, did the tap on the puller method. That's pretty much the method I've used for years when pulling anything from flywheels to suspension taper type joints.

 

[TRS]

You don’t hit it on the end, you hit it on the side of the puller shaft

 

[Geartech]

yep, know the trick well.

 

[TRS]

yep, know the trick well.

?

 

[mtncat1]

the hydraulic method will remove it just be careful it comes of with a lot of force and can bust your knuckles . you may have to tr it several times , p/s once a puller bends it will no longer work

 

[sledhed]

Hydraulic / water method worked for me when all else failed... but the clutch bold won't work on a Polaris, I used a puller, took three tries and even thoroughly teflon-taped I got slight leaks that made it not work... still took a lot of torque. I put an old belt on the sled prior to pulling as I had read horror stories about the clutch flying through the air and landing hard on the concrete floor somewhere... or worse yet taking you out... it kept the clutch mostly in place in the sled (which was on its side).

 

[retiredpop]

Hydraulic / water method worked for me when all else failed... but the clutch bold won't work on a Polaris, I used a puller, took three tries and even thoroughly teflon-taped I got slight leaks that made it not work... still took a lot of torque. I put an old belt on the sled prior to pulling as I had read horror stories about the clutch flying through the air and landing hard on the concrete floor somewhere... or worse yet taking you out... it kept the clutch mostly in place in the sled (which was on its side).

Good idea!

 

[Geartech]

Thanks for all the help, as soon as I can get some time It's coming off one way or another. Don't know who set the clutch up to begin with but there is more than .100 clearance on the belt and I really want to get that taken care of.

 

[Geartech]

Got the stubborn bast*** off. Put the new spring and weights in with it still on the sled but I was still having issues with it being grabby and really high engage point 4500to 5000k with the stock spring and new stock weights so I figured I'd give her one more try to pop the primary off and and pop goes the weasel this time, Puller is a little worse for it but its off.
Think the cheap puller was my biggest problem, gonna have to get one from Indy or Polaris since this one is junk now.

Just gotta figure out what is going on with this clutch.
If it needs a new one think I'll look at a CVTech, any one used one?

 

[retiredpop]

There are a couple of wear items you might check. First is the spider button to tower clearance. Spec calls for .002" clearance but I find anything under .005" is fine. Shim kit is PN 2200387. Another item to check is the weight pin bushing for wear. If the weights are sloppy on the pin that can cause issues as well. Also if the cover bushing is wore then that could cause the clutch to bind. There is a moveable sheave bushing/insert that is replaceable too. I find it is better to take the clutch to the dealer for bushing replacement if you need to because they are easy to damage upon installation. The other stuff is easy enough if you have the tools.

Edit: Just noticed your other thread on this so you probably know all this.

 

[Geartech]

Checked the tower to bushing the other day and they were around 0.007 to 0.008 so I think I need to start there.
As for the weights they are new Polaris 10/68 , pins look new, no wear on them either. The old 72.5 weights had a small groove worn into them where the rollers rested, wanted to reuse them but wasn't sure about that wear spot on them .
As for a Poo dealer I'm not real inspired by out local dealer, asked about having them take the spider off so I could go thru the clutch and they kinda looked at me funny and took them awhile to figure it out.
Thanks for the clutch info link, I bought a svc manual the other day and that alone has answered a lot of question.

 

[AdrenalineAddict]

I exclusively use the grease method anymore. Pump from the bottom up with grease, wrap a couple rounds of electrical tape on the puller, insert and crank. There is a fair chance your clutch will pop off before the end of the puller even touches the crank. I've found this method works every time, it requires a little cleanup but at least your clutch is removed in a matter of minutes instead of hours or days. You won't bend any more pullers, mangle any more crank threads and will never have to hammer on your crank again.

 

[Geartech]

Gonna try that method on the other sled pretty soon, I really didn't like how that cheap puller bent on me.