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Primary clutch issues?

Frostbite

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Will a 911 Cover from the Suzuki powered Proclimbs fit the CTEC powered Ascender models?

I may have answered my own question? They sell Arctic Cat metric, standard and Team Clutch covers.

 
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snopro11

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Got a zrp cover, getting primary balanced. Zrp cover cuts at least 70% of the slop on full shift. Should a guy still shim sheeves if possible??

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BlueDevil

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My cover is cracked as well. Is balancing essential if going with an aftermarket or stock cover ?
 

Octanee

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Got a zrp cover, getting primary balanced. Zrp cover cuts at least 70% of the slop on full shift. Should a guy still shim sheeves if possible??

with the spring out does the spider hit the cover before "bottoming" out? thats what it looks like in your picture there. I'm wondering if those who are getting failures are going fast and giving er down the trails for acceleration/lake racing, etc etc. Where as in a more normal "loaded" condition it should never shift that much, Wide open in the powder I get about ~64K km track speeds, I assume its about 3/4 on the primary clutch sheave.
 

snopro11

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Yeah the clutch cover stops full shift out. Zrp cover stops it about 75% less. I ride it nice on the trails, however it is turboed and I have pulled some decent wheelies, pulls up hill n flats. It looks like on weights it has gone to full shift. Kanedog have you shimmed the sheeves so this doesn’t happen?
 

kanedog

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Yeah the clutch cover stops full shift out. Zrp cover stops it about 75% less. I ride it nice on the trails, however it is turboed and I have pulled some decent wheelies, pulls up hill n flats. It looks like on weights it has gone to full shift. Kanedog have you shimmed the sheeves so this doesn’t happen?

I attempted to completely disassemble for investigative purposes and gave up before I started. Not that the clutches can’t be serviced but they are kind of unserviceable. Ambition, tools specific for this clutch and no part availability were the road blocks I encountered. And then the clutch had some small weird tuning characteristics so I gave up on the whole idear.
There are issues like Vibration, harmonics also.
It would be nice if there was a solution instead of replacing the clutch and watching for a crack to happen.
 
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Goinboardin

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My cover is cracked as well. Is balancing essential if going with an aftermarket or stock cover ?
I would. I put an aftermarket cover on an '18 last year. 300 miles later it came apart, along with cracks on the moveable sheave. I didn't balance it. The cover didn't have much to it, thin webbing and very lightweight. Still acted as the shift stop.

A friend is running Indy Dan's cover, sent the clutch to them. Looks like they media blasted the entire clutch, cut the sheaves, shimmed belt to sheave clearance, installed their cover, and balanced it. This cover is beefy. Need to check if it is the shift stop.
 
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Fredrik

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I want cover to stop on nut just before sheaves contact like 0.2-0.4mm,i think the cover will flex and slow down the force from sheaves hitting,
had the outer sheave crack on first clutch which was shimmed 1.5mm so sheaves made contact before cover and nut,got a new clutch on warranty,2017 clutch looks stronger than 2018+ clutch more material around outher sheave bushing.
 

sno*jet

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^interesting point.
it was my understanding that M.Y. '20 and up clutches are now shimmed correctly so cover isnt the stop anymore. ?
anybody on a 20 or 21 with exploding clutch?
 

snopro11

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Upon further review the marks in the posts are casting glow marks not cracks, looks very deceiving but we checked it with a scope. Cracks on cover are real. Replaced with a new clutch( minus the 1.5# ring on the inside of sheeve) and zrp billet cover and balanced. Buttery smooth idle, I’d bet it’s smoother then previous stock clutch..
 
T
Jan 13, 2013
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Read lots in this post about people putting on aftermarket covers and balancing the clutches. But how long are the clutches lasting after doing this? I just blew apart a stock clutch with 800km on it 6EFDDE4A-679D-4952-A040-C562D27448EA.jpeg
 

turboless terry

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Reminds me of my old 700 wildcat days. Belly pan looked like swiss cheese. Couldn't keep a clutch in it. Hope your cranks fine. Did you do anything to your clutch? Another strike against cat along with their boards, hand warmers, fit and finish, air intake, engine power, sloppy steering column and squatty stance. Probably switching unless they pull their head out.
 

summ8rmk

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I'm contemplating getting a pb80 primary for my Alpha.
I just don't have faith in the team roller.

Sent it
 
F

Fredrik

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I'm contemplating getting a pb80 primary for my Alpha.
I just don't have faith in the team roller.

Sent it
I run cv-tech s4b clutch on a rotax 380 and my experience with them are that you have to choose between hard accelaration and hitting target rpm,
when accelaration is good engine wont hold rpm when clutch shift out,this might work better on a bigger engine but you get alot of centrifugal force and weight pucks dont compensate for that like a lighter tip flyweight.
 

dgibbons

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I'm the one Goinboardin referenced above with the Indy Dan cover. I sent in my 200 mile replacement clutch, they serviced and balanced it with the new cover. The Indy cover is waaay beefier than the ZRP, has a large bushing that has a retaining ring holding it in place (ZRP does not) and the cover does not bottom on the spider at full shift. I'm pulling more RPM with the balanced primary and the Indy cover even though it's got to be a bit heavier than the stock cover. Also more RPM than my ZRP setup last year (I changed nothing else on the sled)...Time will tell, but I hope the Indy cover holds the clutch together longer than the stock cover and/or some of the other aftermarkets.
 

dgibbons

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