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naturalyhigh700
New member
can some one tell me how big of lugs i can fit stock? thanx
powder specail 580 track clearance?
- Thread starter naturalyhigh700
- Start date
1.6 or 1.7 stock. If you put 8 tooth drivers in you can go to a 2 inch. You can also pull the front heat exchanger and mill the fins down to 1/8 inch and run a 2 inch with your 9 tooth drivers. That works the best but is also the most work.
front cooler
You don't have pull the cooler to cut it pull the drive shaft out and go buy a couple of the aluminum grinding dics. at a welding supply shop and DIY it is a messy job but works I did it on a 580z and then you can run a 2" track. Grind the fins down to where they only stick out away from the base of the cooler about an eighth of an inch. Then take some coarse sand paper and sand away the grindings that are still part of the fins on the cooler. If you really want this thing to go in deeper snow put a 156" track under it, makes a big difference. The grinding dics I mentioned look like a flapper wheel only flat. CAUTION where goggles if you DIY because grindings go everywhere and if you don't know put 19 42 gears in or even 43 or 44. depending on how much speed you want.
Hope this helps..
You don't have pull the cooler to cut it pull the drive shaft out and go buy a couple of the aluminum grinding dics. at a welding supply shop and DIY it is a messy job but works I did it on a 580z and then you can run a 2" track. Grind the fins down to where they only stick out away from the base of the cooler about an eighth of an inch. Then take some coarse sand paper and sand away the grindings that are still part of the fins on the cooler. If you really want this thing to go in deeper snow put a 156" track under it, makes a big difference. The grinding dics I mentioned look like a flapper wheel only flat. CAUTION where goggles if you DIY because grindings go everywhere and if you don't know put 19 42 gears in or even 43 or 44. depending on how much speed you want.
Hope this helps..
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naturalyhigh700
New member
that really helped thanx. any chance you could post some pics of your sled?
It's long gone,, was tampered with behind my back lost the engine. NOT due to the perfomance stuff I did to it someone turned one of the air screws way out on one of the carbs and lost pto cyl. I really like the chassis with some suspension up grades they go really well in deeper snow. They actually have a good track angle stock and with an A arm upgrade and newer rear skid would be a great sled. Had a plan to put a 800 triple in it and do the rider foward setup on it but money got tight and there you are... I rode that sled all the way to 99 with no problems changed pistons every two seasons with an avereage of 600 miles a winter.. Good luck with what ever you do with it,, this chassis over all is not that much different from the later generation stuff.. Keep and eye on the skid wheels lock tight them get larger diameter wheels if you can it will help reduce roll resistance get extro vert drivers as well then you can run the track looser . These little things add up you could probably get a 153 skid put big wheels on it and run a 156 track on it. With all of the used stuff out there it would be pretty easy to build a resto mod mtn sled that would go really well just depends on what you want and have budget for. Mechanical skill will play a role as well because you will want to go through the whole sled anyway to make sure your wheel bearings and the like are all in good working order. Have fun with it..
1.75 will work with stock drivers without modification. I put a 141 on mine by moving the skid 2.5 inches back and raised the rear 1.5 inches. I relocated the front holes 2.5 back and built a drop bracket for the rear bolts 2.5 back and 1.5 down. This changed the front track angle making the sled work much better in the powder. I just sold the sled this winter but pictures still are on my garage.
