Polaris P85 Drive Clutch

[CO 2.0]

The biggest issue I've seen with people not being able to get the clutch to pop off is because they were not using a long enough/good enough breaker bar. I had an 18" 1/2" drive Husky breaker bar for awhile and it always took me to have to use water and get it on its side to get that thing to pop off. Now with my 24" Snap on 1/2" dr breaker bar I can pop it off without water and the sled just sitting normal. Amazing the difference the extra leverage and quality of the tool made.

 

[sno_mo_racer]

Just a couple more thoughts on belts & side clearance measurements.
Your new IQ 7 & 8 comes from Poo with the 115 belt. Many of you will purchase the 080 belt for a spare & that's fine except that at some point you may start using the spare belt & that will change belt side clearance. Even the 115 belts aren't the same width so changing belts may require a change to side clearance. (Changing to an A/Mkt weight can change side clearance too.)
This makes a good argument for spending the extra $ for another 115 belt & try to get 2 that are the same width. Another argument for the 115 is that they are nearly indestructable so they won't blow up putting stess on the crank. Normally, the 115 will wear until it's too narrow rather than grenade like the 080.
So if you are adding an A/M clutch kit from Carl's or SLP then put in the new weights before checking side clearance. In a perfect world you should also break-in the belts or at least recheck clearance after you have some miles on your belts. Yes.......belts.......break-in the spare belt as well as the one on the sled.
And don't forget to scrub both belts to remove the mold release agent. I use a powder cleanser like BonAmi, wire brush & lots of hot water.
The clutch & belts are a good place to get a little ANAL!!!!

On the underlined. Also the ultimax xs-809 is a tough belt. When my crank ripped off the belt I was using was an 809 and no damage to it. It actually held the ripped off clutch in place preventing it from shooting out of hood or into the fender.

 

[skibreeze]

The biggest issue I've seen with people not being able to get the clutch to pop off is because they were not using a long enough/good enough breaker bar. I had an 18" 1/2" drive Husky breaker bar for awhile and it always took me to have to use water and get it on its side to get that thing to pop off. Now with my 24" Snap on 1/2" dr breaker bar I can pop it off without water and the sled just sitting normal. Amazing the difference the extra leverage and quality of the tool made.

X2, I found out that my puller was also just long enough to get the clutches off, but it was also hanging up inside the clutch. It wasn't until that it started to wear the annodizing off that I realized that I needed to machine part of it a smaller diameter.

 

[Wild Bill 1]

Just a side note about using a hammer or impact whilst pulling a clutch...I've seen first hand cracking damage to magneto magnets in some engines

 

[gerrman]

Clutch Balancing

Will be going over my clutch soon. Only has 850 miles on it. Off a 2009 D8. Still wondering about the balancing issue? If everything checks out, should it be balanced? If I should have it balance, I need to know of a shop that does that is reasonably close to home. I live in Terrace BC. No shops in town do snowmobile clutch balancing. Anybody know of a reputable shop that is closer than Southern BC or Washington? Thanks!!

 

[rmk2112]

............ Anybody know of a reputable shop that is closer than Southern BC or Washington? Thanks!!

Both indydan and http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/...ne.com/forum/member.php?u=78409][b]clutch manclutch man have great reputations here

clutch man is from Bend, OR
indydan is from Minnesota

 

[gerrman]

Both indydan and http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/...ne.com/forum/member.php?u=78409][b]clutch manclutch man have great reputations here

clutch man is from Bend, OR
indydan is from Minnesota

Thanks, but these guys are a long way away. Shipping would be a killer. Terrace BC is located inland about 90 miles east of Prince Rupert(it is on the coast)

 

[BadAftertaste]

Big thanks to the OP and subsequent posters. New spring and weights went in last night. My first go. For sure going to buy the compressor for next time though. Getting the cover back on without it was a bit of a pain with a new spring. I'm stoked... buttoning up the SLP single install tonight, push arm went on last night as well.

Anyway, thanks all. Very, very much...

Craig

 

[Dartos]

I know this is for the P85, but I can't find a good thread on the Team Secondary.

X2 on the Team.

Specifically how do determine if the bushing is good or needs to be replaced?

I have the 2005 Deep Snow manual and couldn't find any service limits or dimensions.

 

[diamonddave]

X2 on the Team.

Specifically how do determine if the bushing is good or needs to be replaced?

I have the 2005 Deep Snow manual and couldn't find any service limits or dimensions.

Just replace it (and the washer in between the 2 sheeves.) I haven't seen a team secondary yet that had 1,000 miles or more on it that didn't have the sliding sheeve bushing worn out. That bushing when worn allows the sliding sheeve to kock and wear the washer into the washer surface of the other sheeve. If run too much, a new secondary will be needed. I replaced about 5 of those bushings for guys last season and 5 others needed new secondary's because of too much bushing wear that took out the washer surface of the other sheeve. I replace bushings in transmissions at work so I know what a wore out bushing looks like but don't know how to explain it in detail in typing. The new replacement bushings when installed are always much tighter.


Last year I took a bunch of pics and measurements of the TSS-98 and TSS-04 for a Team thread, just haven't had time to put it all together.

 

[Dartos]

It seemed loose to me. I see the parts catalog has no bushing listed. I guess the dealer will know what I need. What does a bushing normally run$$?

Is this a simple press out - press in procedure?

 

[Dartos]

Can you give me the low down on getting that bushing out? It looks like there is hardly anything to press on.

I went to the local Polaris dealer and they said they never replace that bushing, so they were no help except I did get to buy a $3 torx screw for the one i stripped.

 

[volcano buster]

Just replace it (and the washer in between the 2 sheeves.) I haven't seen a team secondary yet that had 1,000 miles or more on it that didn't have the sliding sheeve bushing worn out. That bushing when worn allows the sliding sheeve to kock and wear the washer into the washer surface of the other sheeve. If run too much, a new secondary will be needed. I replaced about 5 of those bushings for guys last season and 5 others needed new secondary's because of too much bushing wear that took out the washer surface of the other sheeve. I replace bushings in transmissions at work so I know what a wore out bushing looks like but don't know how to explain it in detail in typing. The new replacement bushings when installed are always much tighter.


Last year I took a bunch of pics and measurements of the TSS-98 and TSS-04 for a Team thread, just haven't had time to put it all together.

I'm not following. What I found on my Team was the offset pressure on the large washer between the sheaves created by the deflection adjusting bolt. This is evident by the dimple worn on the washer and the matching gawling of the metal on the sheave surface opposite the adjusting bolt. I ended up replacing the washer after about 2500 miles because it would alter deflection simply by where it landed when the clutch came back together.

Granted, with all the offset pressure from the adjusting bolt, it does probably wear the bushing faster.

 

[diamonddave]

I'm not following. What I found on my Team was the offset pressure on the large washer between the sheaves created by the deflection adjusting bolt. This is evident by the dimple worn on the washer and the matching gawling of the metal on the sheave surface opposite the adjusting bolt. I ended up replacing the washer after about 2500 miles because it would alter deflection simply by where it landed when the clutch came back together.

Granted, with all the offset pressure from the adjusting bolt, it does probably wear the bushing faster.

Your assesment is correct however, your first picture shows exactly what happens when that bushing wears out. If you look closely at the washer surface, you'll see how the washer has worn one side of the washer surface more than the other. Now the adjusting bolt does put alot of pressure on the washer but I've seen this happen also when the washer has looked perfect and no groove has been worn into the washer from the adjusting bolt. The other thing that causes the washer to wear more on one side is typical of a single return spring type of set-up that we see in any type of application. A single return spring cannot provide equal 360 degree pressure. A worn bushing allows the springs tension to not run true and straight and puts more pressure on one side than it does on the other. We see this type of failure in the automatic transmission world everyday in a wide range of compnents and applications. This is why spring replacement intervals should be seasonal. A better design would be a retainer that held many return springs. This would allow a more even 360 degree tension/pressure on the washer and would also allow for longer bushing life.

In reality, it doesn't really matter what or why it wears, I was simply trying to recommend that the bushing be replaced. To this date, I have not replaced one yet that didn't tighten up the play considerably. The other thing that I am currently testing is I have added a 2nd adjusting bolt to my secondary (I drilled and tapped another hole opposite of the factory adjusting bolt location.) I am curoius to see if this will help the wear that occurrs from the adjusting bolt on the washer.

IMO...What team should have done was added 3 or 4 tabs to that washer with recessed holes in the sheeve so that it can't spin on the surface of the sheeve. I've seen a couple (TSS-98's) that have actually cracked in this area.

 

[diamonddave]

Can you give me the low down on getting that bushing out? It looks like there is hardly anything to press on.

I went to the local Polaris dealer and they said they never replace that bushing, so they were no help except I did get to buy a $3 torx screw for the one i stripped.

I use a bushing splitter to remove it and then install it with the correct bushing driver (with a little red or green loctite). It doesn't surprise me that your dealer doesn't replce the bushing because it's more work than just replacing the entire secondary.

I would recommend going to your local transmission rebuilder if your dealer doesn't replace secondary bushings. They should be able to replace that bushing no problem for a half rack or a pizza.

EDIT: Here is the part numbers for the replacement bushings for the Team

The TSS-04 in an 08 Dragon; the moveable sheeve bushing part number from WPS is 30-180130 and the spacer which always gets tattered is 30-150229. It is also available directly from Team Industries.

Here is a link to a thread that shows a pic of the WPS catalog that has part numbers for the internal parts of the Team Secondary's.


http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=281487

 

[volcano buster]

I have wondered if this would not be helpful. My old XLT had 3 adjustment pins with a rotating disc with tapered slots to apply pressure as you turned it.

How do you adjust deflection on both pins evenly, or are you simply good on one and really close on the other?

 

[diamonddave]

I have wondered if this would not be helpful. My old XLT had 3 adjustment pins with a rotating disc with tapered slots to apply pressure as you turned it.

How do you adjust deflection on both pins evenly, or are you simply good on one and really close on the other?

It's tricky but what I did was I first measured with a micrometer an equal amount of turns of the threaded allen bolt before assembly of the secondary. When I set my deflection I turned both bolts at the same time with an equal amount. It's kind of nerdy and overkill but that's the way I am with this kind of stuff.

You probably could just set the deflection with one bolt and then when adding a 2nd or 3rd just run it in until you just start feeling pressure and then lock it down.

 

[Dartos]

Call me hard headed but I really want to do this so I don't have to rely on a shop somewhere. The local parts stores looked at me like I had a thumb growing out of my forehead when I was looking for a bushing splitter yesterday. Harbor Freight was no better.

What are you using? Where did you get it?

 

[diamonddave]

Call me hard headed but I really want to do this so I don't have to rely on a shop somewhere. The local parts stores looked at me like I had a thumb growing out of my forehead when I was looking for a bushing splitter yesterday. Harbor Freight was no better.

What are you using? Where did you get it?

Snap-On Tools. I own about $2,000 in bushing drivers and a couple different length and styles of bushing splitters. Sometimes you can make a bushing splitter out of a chissel, flat punch, or an old screwdriver or use the screwdriver as is to beat it out. Just make careful to not burr or gouge up the surface the bushing presses into. But you must have the proper sizing bushing driver to press it back in.

I still rec the local transmission rebuilder.

 

[Dartos]

I guess I'll have to head down the mountain and go to the big city and find a place.

Thanks for your help.

Jeff