pair of modded 340 Indy lites

[thedude306]

One kid has outgrown the modded 120 she had and the other is on his way. He might get another year if he doesn't grow over the summer. Figured I might as well document the build of these two sleds. Well really it will only be the Deluxe. The other sled will get a hydro brake and a better track if I can find something used. And a set of hand warmers. Other then that it will stay stock. Rebuilt the clutch and carbs. Runs sweet and my girl can start it on her own. It rips for what it is.





The deluxe is getting the same treatment plus I will change out the handle bars for a better standing while riding experience. I also have the old 136 track off of my switchback that will get donated to the cause. Picked up a 136" Xtra 10 skid and other misc parts for the long track conversion. need to do something about that terrible seat. Not sure if there's a better option or if I will have to modify the old seat.

I found a used anti stab kit and I bought some 8 tooth Wahl drivers that are on their way. Also getting new driveshaft bearings and seal etc. Basic maintenance.





I'm going to try and find some decent running boards and plastic skis as well. Trying to keep this build as budget friendly as possible. My girl will probably ride her unit for quite some time. My boy is going to want more power before long but I think these sleds will be a decent riding and budget friendly stop gap. They are still heavy as heck compared to those modded 120s, and slow off the line too.

 

[thedude306]

Waiting for parts sucks. I really want to get this rolling before summer hits. I threw in the skid just to get an idea of where it will all sit. Looks good in the front holes but I am concerned it might be too far back. I have conflicting info on mounting distances from flat of hex shaft when vertical

RMK 9 13/16"
Ultra SPX XE 11 5/8"

The distanceto mounting plate on the Indy lite is 12 1/8"

I alway get confused but I think that having it back farther will let it get up on the snow better because of the softer angle??? When I get the driver in I guess I will see how the track fits. Rear brackets will need to be moved back 2" but the drop looks perfect at 5 1/8" (same as front hole)

doesn't look very long. lol Got the extension cleaned up and rear bumper painted.

D58565C6-4199-4DCF-A2A1-9A5F389458CF by Brad Taylor, on Flickr

 

[Reeb]

You got your thinking right, we used to move skids back to soften the approach angle all the time. Even did it to the 120 Snopro.

 

[Clayton]

Gripper skis, pro seat, 133 x 1.75 track, 7 tooth drivers, running board cut outs, mountain bar. Prefect sled for the kids!

 

[thedude306]

That seat looks pretty good! Do you have any better pictures of it around the tank? I also like that headlight (well the lack of the original) I have a 10" LED that I might try and put up at the nose.

Is that a 2 gen windshield cut to fit?

All the parts showed up, just waiting for the roads to get better as we had an ice storm last night.

 

[Clayton]

That seat looks pretty good! Do you have any better pictures of it around the tank? I also like that headlight (well the lack of the original) I have a 10" LED that I might try and put up at the nose.

Is that a 2 gen windshield cut to fit?

All the parts showed up, just waiting for the roads to get better as we had an ice storm last night.

For the seat, I cut a pro tank down to slip over the Indy lite tank. It was the best way I could come up with for the front mounting point. My kid destroyed the valence so yes I cut an Indy Lite windshield to fit in the grooves. However they aren't very tough and my kid has broken 3 rolling it over and they are time consuming to make so as it sits now...no windshield

 

[thedude306]

that makes sense on the seat. Neat way to do it too!

How does this look? I need to move the rear mount forward about and inch but I am really happy with how this is turning out with the 8 tooth drivers. I had to remove the chaincase to get the shaft in but that's easy peasy.





I think the rake looks pretty good for this set up. I am going to swap my skis off my pro R onto the lite as I am due for a new set of skis. Should raise the front up a bit.

 

[thedude306]

I got the rear mounts in today. I went 27 15/16" back from the front mount center line and 5 3/4" down.

I used the indy lite drop brackets and just moved them back. One hole lined up perfectly so it was easy. I forgot to get pictures but I will. I need to fix the ovalled out mounting holes but I am impressed. Compared to mucking around with the polaris 120 this is a dream. So much room, all big parts, lots of info.

Having two indy lites side by side it's going to be hard not to mod the other one. So far this xtra-10 suspension is way better then the indy lite....

 

[thedude306]

I got these great washers that I will weld on to the original rear indy lite mounts. It's nice that they are so thick. Lots of meat to weld to and will last. Make sure your bolts are long enough to compensate for the extra thickness. You can see how ovalled out the original mounting holes are.

I'll weld them up and give them a blast and paint





I'm going to mount a 10" LED light bar up front and get rid of the cowl and headlight. It's mint and I will try and keep it that way for when the kids out grow the sled.

 

[Clayton]

Smart man on the cowl! I found a new one on Craigslist here in AK. Bought it for my 7 YO along with a windshield for Xmas. Within a week both the windshield and the new cowl were toast

Lesson learned!

 

[thedude306]

Well it's almost time to put it away. I got the suspension all done and I ditched the old metal skis for the set of pro steers off my Switchback. You need to use the bolt and spacer from the donor sled to make it work. I shimmed the rubbers as well. It raised the front of the sled about 3/4" of an inch. I am going to track down a set of 97+ RMK/XC spindles that are an inch longer to bring the font up a little bit more.

Also got the pro taper bars on but they hit the windshield in stock form. It's worth it though as the old bars are TERRIBLE.

Phone died, only picture I got. Still needed for next fall is primary clutch work, carb kits (one seat is leaking), front bumper, rear hitch, RMK spindles and hydro brakes, and I've got to do something about the horrible seat. .... sheesh and I thought I was almost done!

 

[thedude306]

Handlebar wiring will get cleaned up when I switch to the hydro brake with controls

 

[wescamp17]

It looks amazing. Awesome work on those modded sled.

 

[Reeb]

What did the Lite skid weigh compared to the xtra-10?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[thedude306]

good question and I should have weighed them.... do'h!

I think the the xtra-10 is lighter. And more surprisingly so was the 136 track, by what felt like a lot.

I'll pay attention better when I do the other one (it's such a nice swap)

 

[dansvan]

Great job. Be careful with those windshields, they are getting crazy hard to find.

 

[thedude306]

Great job. Be careful with those windshields, they are getting crazy hard to find.

Ya my plan is to remove the windshield and cowl and modify another windshield to fit. Keep the original for when we go to sell them.

 

[Jeff Schmitz]

That ovaled set of holes in the rear mount bracket (or the front one as well) is usually caused by one or two conditions - the bolt has been loose for quite a while, due to either natural loosening or the axle being locked into the skid tube from lack of grease getting all the way out to the ends. That axle should spin easily in the housing, if not it will loosen the bolt over time as the tube rotates when the skid compresses/flexes. The Indy grease "system" is a basic train wreck from the spindle feet to the skid. Most zerks are pressed in and will push out or get yanked out by a grease gun, the skid zerks are pressed in then spot welded which often puts a blob that won't allow the grease gun fitting to lock and seal, squirting grease everywhere except where it's needed. The area needing grease drys out and locks up. They can be freed but it takes a lot of time, patience and penetrating oil. Don't beat on the axle, it will mushroom and not allow the bearing for the carrier wheel to fit on. Ask me how I know these things....Sigh.

 

[thedude306]

Well a little progress on the sleds... I was lazy over the summer and didn't find my hydraulic brakes so that's the new goal before the snow flies. Got the tethers installed and a windshield I am going to try and modify is on the way.

Bought some nice seat covers from Scotty's Sled Shed and decals from JB Designs.

BE3E0AA6-9608-49E1-8B04-0AA3B185713D

07026B23-EA27-4447-B504-1A98305DE1D6

 

[Jeff Schmitz]

That seat came out nice. I've put one cover from Scotty on a Lite GT two up seat; he has a seat choice of non slip rubber available that I like. The GT version has a decent storage compartment under the passenger. Scotty's covers have a very small opening for that compartment, smaller than OEM. We are going to make our own access flap on future covers. I have at least three more to do! If you do a seat cover a couple of things to keep in mind. First, on the GT series the tail light wiring is in the seat from the factory. There is a three contact connector at the front right but you have to disassemble the shrink tubing/ty wrap mess under the tail light to get at the rear disconnects then pull them through the raceways to the seat. Pull a string with them...it makes restoral easier. I take the harness out of the seat and put it on the tunnel, spacing the seat up just a bit to keep it off the harness. The GT also has a strap that has to be removed, it's another PITA that I just cut and don't put back on. Putting back on is a nightmare, I think the skid might have to be out to do it to the OEM configuration. When you take the old cover off, dry the seat foam for a week or better to get the absorbed water out. A clue as to water content can be seen if you just stand the seat up on end for a few hours. The surface water pours out if it is grossly saturated. Finally it's a really good idea to get comfortable taking these seats on and off regardless of model, there is a tank retaining bracket that usually needs derusting and painting hiding under there. They are not available anymore. It's also the gateway to moving the tank off the sled for maintenance like replacing the fuel pickup line or just move back to be able to get the air box free from the carbs during carb maintenance. There are a bunch of extra holes in the top of the tunnel for other sled configurations, I cover them with aluminum tape to keep snow/water out of there and minimize corrosion/cooty buildup. Take care of these sleds; there is nothing like them today!