NEWS FLASH!! M Pipe sensor is not a Thermocouple

[hatchers]

Its a damn RTD, this is retarded IMO, took a new pipe sensor to work and tried to figure out what this thing is?...what type of TC? and why they go bad as any decent TC will not go bad.....well it took a while to figure this this is a POS 3 wire PT200 RTD (resistive Temp Device)....a RTD is generally used in temps ranges of -50 to 500 F



side note - ill take some time later to figure out what kind of TC can be used in its place, with the aid of a series Resistor will make the scaling spot on!

 

[product tester]

If ya want to delete the sensor I can tell you what resistor to put in it.

 

[RKT]

Its a damn RTD, this is retarded IMO, took a new pipe sensor to work and tried to figure out what this thing is?...what type of TC? and why they go bad as any decent TC will not go bad.....well it took a while to figure this this is a POS 3 wire PT200 RTD (resistive Temp Device)....a RTD is generally used in temps ranges of -50 to 500 F



side note - ill take some time later to figure out what kind of TC can be used in its place, with the aid of a series Resistor will make the scaling spot on!

It is a thermistor that increases resistence with an increase in temperature.. And, yes, it fails way to often..

Just put in a resistor and then you can disconnect it..

 

[JHG]

If ya want to delete the sensor I can tell you what resistor to put in it.

If you delete the resistor do you just have to wait longer for the sled to warm up?

 

[TREE_MAGNET_777]

OK guys whats the problem with what Cat is using and how often do they fail, and more important what happens (how do you know) when this sensor takes a dump. And if you will take the time to inform us---why do they use this on the 8 when the 7's didn't need it. Also We are running two 8's so do you think it would be a good idea to buy a spare (resistor) as to not ruin a weekend if this goes bad or do they run ok with a bad resistor????? THANKS Garry

 

[hatchers]

It is a thermistor that increases resistence with an increase in temperature.. And, yes, it fails way to often..

Just put in a resistor and then you can disconnect it..

"Thermisor" is a just a general term of resistive temp devices, as is RTD and TC, a using a thermisor in an exhasut pipe is silly and wont last long...all i know, is this temp thingy measures the same as a PT200 RTD....so this subject RTD can be used in its place for much less, but it will still go open after tine, so its best to use a TC

Productester - i seen the way CCs sled runs a idle with a Resistor in its place, no thanks

 

[RKT]

"Thermisor" is a just a general term of resistive temp devices, as is RTD and TC, a using a thermisor in an exhasut pipe is silly and wont last long...all i know, is this temp thingy measures the same as a PT200 RTD....so this subject RTD can be used in its place for much less, but it will still go open after tine, so its best to use a TC

Productester - i seen the way CCs sled runs a idle with a Resistor in its place, no thanks

The resistor does not effect idle at all, at least on a N/A engine.. afterall, once the pipe is up to temp, the value stays relatively the same.. However; the thermistor is very sensitive to temp change and will change very rapidly whenever the pipe cools down or heats up.. But this in in there as safety against a cold seizure as well as EPA mandates.. In any case, very simple to by pass this dude.

Whenever the sensor fails it will thow an ECU 17 code.. Performance is not greatly effected with this code active.. but always better to not have the code..

Kelsey

 

[hatchers]

im not sure what is diffrent about a turbo kit and/or my kit in respect to this pipe sensor.....but i do know it wont run well (if at all), when mine went bad...the fuel pressure was going nuts from 35-55psi, had to wait until she cooled down to get a stable start, then i had to stay on the throttle and not stop, she would die and be hard to start when hot...and for some reason, the sled also had a alt. pressure fault code when i get the pipe sensor code, the baro code went away after i replaced the pipe sensor....weird

 

[RKT]

im not sure what is diffrent about a turbo kit and/or my kit in respect to this pipe sensor.....but i do know it wont run well (if at all), when mine went bad...the fuel pressure was going nuts from 35-55psi, had to wait until she cooled down to get a stable start, then i had to stay on the throttle and not stop, she would die and be hard to start when hot...and for some reason, the sled also had a alt. pressure fault code when i get the pipe sensor code, the baro code went away after i replaced the pipe sensor....weird

Not sure baout yours but we have had 3 fail (same sled 3 different times) on the hill and they sled still runs fine.. not real noticeable difference with the 17 code.. BUT, we only have the 17 code.. So, I suspect your other failure is the cause of yours running bad not the sensor.

 

[backcountryislife]

Not sure baout yours but we have had 3 fail (same sled 3 different times) on the hill and they sled still runs fine.. not real noticeable difference with the 17 code.. BUT, we only have the 17 code.. So, I suspect your other failure is the cause of yours running bad not the sensor.

Ditto here, of the 3 that have failed for me, minimal difference in runnability. (noticeable, but minimal) One of them I ran for another week just because I didn't have a new one & it was fine. I'm not sure how your other symptoms are related, but that's not common. I did see one very modded M1000 that seemed to be a little more affected by the code, but he still ran the sled & had a good, complete day with no other codes.

 

[m8magicandmystery]

strange things happen with codes...a loose plug cap will give a failure code for the air temp sensor at high rpm/load on my sled...

 

[Logpile]

Why would the fuel pressure be affected by the Pipe Temp Sensor? It has nothing to do the fuel pump or regulator.

 

[hatchers]

Why would the fuel pressure be affected by the Pipe Temp Sensor? It has nothing to do the fuel pump or regulator.

its a turbo kit, a N/A sled will build fuel pressure and hold it constant during the first pull, a Turbo will build 20 or so PSI and then swing to 45ish when the engine lights off....

 

[JSCC]

The only thing that should change fuel pressure is boost. When the lights go off on the dash, typically the machine go's rich. So if you lose some Rpm from going rich, you may lose a little boost, but that should not show much change in fuel pressure. Now if your pressure line going to you fuel pressure regulator is getting dicked up and losing boost, you could be gettings swings in pressure from that. However, if you are loosing your fuel pump, you may see some swings in fuel pressure.....?

As far as the resistor, can someone hook a brotha up? I already replaced one PTS this year, and now just lost another! ****in piles!

 

[RKT]

The only thing that should change fuel pressure is boost. When the lights go off on the dash, typically the machine go's rich. So if you loose some Rpm from going rich, you may loose a little boost, but that should not show much change in fuel pressure. Now if your pressure line going to you fuel pressure regulator is getting dicked up and loosing boost, you could be gettings swings in pressure from that. However, if you are loosing your fuel pump, you may see some swings in fuel pressure.....?

As far as the resistor, can someone hook a brotha up? I already replaced one PTS this year, and now just lost another! ****in piles!

Jed,

I have not measured a M10 but here is what you need to do to be sure of th e proper resistor value.

With a functioning probe.. Runt eh sled so the pipe is at normal operating temp.. Then as quick as you can, disconnect the electronic connector to the probe and then measure the resistence across the probe.. This will tell you abuot where you need to be with the resistor. With this particular thermistor, the hotter the temp the more resistence value


Kelsey

 

[JSCC]

Thanks Kelsey!
By the way, you missed hanging out in a snow storm last weekend......dont that sound fun?

 

[hatchers]

The only thing that should change fuel pressure is boost. When the lights go off on the dash, typically the machine go's rich. So if you lose some Rpm from going rich, you may lose a little boost, but that should not show much change in fuel pressure. Now if your pressure line going to you fuel pressure regulator is getting dicked up and losing boost, you could be gettings swings in pressure from that. However, if you are loosing your fuel pump, you may see some swings in fuel pressure.....?

As far as the resistor, can someone hook a brotha up? I already replaced one PTS this year, and now just lost another! ****in piles!

i completly removed and tested: fuel pump/regulator/lines/fuel pump wiring....the fuel pump wiring did look a bit suspect so i replaced with some bomb proof wiring...i know it dont make much sence, but the fuel pressure would wack off at idle when hot, cool it down and then it would run forever until i stoped, then the jacking off fuel pressure would start....i swear to god i need a spare turbo sled somtimes

 

[genesmob]

Jed,

I have not measured a M10 but here is what you need to do to be sure of th e proper resistor value.

With a functioning probe.. Runt eh sled so the pipe is at normal operating temp.. Then as quick as you can, disconnect the electronic connector to the probe and then measure the resistence across the probe.. This will tell you abuot where you need to be with the resistor. With this particular thermistor, the hotter the temp the more resistence value


Kelsey

Wouldnt the pipe temperature drop too fast to check it? Kind of like how EGTs drop immediately after letting off the gas.

 

[hatchers]

Wouldnt the pipe temperature drop too fast to check it? Kind of like how EGTs drop immediately after letting off the gas.

nope, a TC is fast acting if you will cuz its simply two wires, one AL and the other is CR...a Resistive temp device will take several seconds to change as its somewhat of a heat sink...kinda sorta in a way

 

[WyoBoy1000]

Hatchers, is your F/P controled by boost, what kind of a turbo kit is it. Sounds more like the low F/P is throwing the code.