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Newbie 2004 800 Switchback owner

C
Dec 25, 2019
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So I’m new to the group and looking for members with experience with the 800 engine issues. I have torn down the complete engine and am looking for the beat place to find all my parts. I’m looking at replacing both jugs in my top end build and possibly the crank with my bottom end kit. Is there anything for updates for the 800 I should make sure I do? Also one exhaust valve that has some hit marks on it.
Any help or pointers would be great, thanks in advance. Bill
 

BeartoothBaron

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Nov 2, 2017
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Roberts, MT
OE parts are the best bet, but some aftermarket stuff is ok. If you're just looking to get it up for a couple seasons and 500-1000 miles, you'll probably be ok with whatever for pistons and smaller parts. If you plan to keep it for the long haul, I'd stick with OEM as much as possible. There were/are a lot of issues with the 800 cranks from the beginning, and a lot of different opinions on what was the true fix, or whether there is a fix for them. If you search the EDGE section, you can find lots more on that. Step one is to check the crank runout, if possible; if that's off, then send the crank off for a full rebuild. There was a mod that machined the case to accept a newer-style wide bearing, but then I've read that didn't necessarily made things better. Clutch balance and proper setup plays a big part in keeping the crank straight. With regard to the power valves, if they're aluminum, it's best to replace them with new stainless steel valves. The aluminum ones are prone to melting and/or breaking, often taking the piston down with them. On really high mileage motors, it's possible for the seat to wear down to the point where the valve contacts the piston, so you'd want to make sure to address that if it's the case here. It's not the most bulletproof motor, but on the other hand, people have got a lot of miles out of them.
 
C
Dec 25, 2019
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Thank you, I do plan on keeping the machine. I just got it this fall and was told it had been rebuilt on the top end, which it appears to have been done.
 

BeartoothBaron

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Nov 2, 2017
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Roberts, MT
Hmmm, well, if the crank runout is good and no signs of trouble with the pistons, I'd think about just throwing it back together with new gaskets (I wouldn't reuse anything, especially crank seals, once you've had it apart). I'm no expert on when to replace what, but if you do a leakdown test, that'll give you a good idea of where you're at. If everything looks good but leakdown is marginal, a light hone and new rings would probably bring it back up. As long as it runs ok, I wouldn't worry too much if it's had new pistons. The crank is the one thing I wouldn't chance. If that goes, you'll be looking for a whole new engine. You need a dial gauge, and with the engine apart, you can just set the crank in the bottom half of the crankcase (Polaris has a cradle for that purpose, but I don't see why you'd need that). Spin the crank with the dial gauge set where the taper for the clutch output starts, 1/2" out from where the taper starts on the flywheel side. Polaris spec is up to .004, <.002 is preferred.

Other things that are hard on the crank are a clutch imbalance, if the belt side clearance is too much, misaligned clutch, and bad motor mounts. These motors were pretty hard on motor mounts, they'll definitely need replacement if they haven't been done recently; when they go bad, the engine will pull itself out of alignment under load. Torque arms were a popular add-on too, but I can't say how much good they actually do.
 
C
Dec 25, 2019
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Thank you, I do need new pistons, had damage to the left jug, and some wear on the right. The oil pump wasn’t in time making me believe all the damage was due to that. I need two new jugs or refurbished jugs, pistons upper seal kit and lower kit. Also need one exhaust valve due to contact with the left piston.
 
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