Last year I read the thread about eliminating the plastic rub block on your dive chain on your ARO, and in the process moving the whole kit up closer to your bike...........lots of glowing reports on CMX's that sit close to the bike and make them more playful. So in Feb last year Dan and I moved his ARO kit closer, used a 15 tooth drive sprocket on the bike driving an 18 on the ARO and went 17 to 18 bottom in the chain case. It was a nice improvement in less vibration/noise, noticeably easier to roll/less drag.
Thinking the RIOT would be the same frame same setup I proceeded to mount my new Riot on my KTM 500 as per the ARO.
1. something is different. To accomplish what we did last spring to the ARO, I had to slide out my.........call it a swingarm cast aluminum block. I put it in my mill ( could be done with a die grinder ) and
2. milled off the end of the block about 3/16 of an inch ,so the ends of the swingarm on either side of the adjuster bolt, removed the adjuster bolt lock nut, machined the hole surface on the inside where the adjuster bolt comes out so I had a flat surface there and put the lock nut on the inside of the swing arm.
3, elongated the 4 holes the long pinch bolts go through the frame .150 of an inch.
4. took a cut on the underside of the swing arm left side where the chain wants to
rub to give some extra chain room.
5. machined the swing arms sides back about .200 just ahead of the forward pinch bolt so the swing arm slides deeper into the Riot frame.
6. All this work so the swing are slide deeper into the Riot frame. Last year in the spring I put on a new DID low friction o ring chain and was impressed with the easier rolling so I used that chain with 15 tooth on the bike and 18 on the kit, removed the plastic shoe that came on the swing arm.
7. Note in the picture the heim joint on the solid strut just touches the long pinch bolt, note the distance between the adjuster bolt and the frame it pushes against. I should have taken pictures of stock them after modification to compare.....my bad.
Compare that to your stock Riot.
8 . When bolted together chain clears swing arm bolt on the bottom by about .200 and clears the top side by a mile and no rub block, just like the rear wheel on your bike it should be.
I also included picture of the fat top idler wheels after I narrowed them up and picture of the top idler wheels I ran when I put the aro suspension in my older TS frame. I was going to use the aluminum idler wheels in my riot, but they are bigger diameter that stock fatty wheels which worked great in my mods the last couple of years, I need to try the RIOT suspension and see if it has ratcheting issues before I go changing wheels sized.
I note about adjusting your track, side to side adjustment needs to be done to center up the rear wheels between the lugs and however the tracks looks is ok, the riot has nice skinny wheels in the back to I see no issues with the rear wheels, which I narrowed on the kits and sleds.
Anyway for now we shall see. my first shot I down loading pictures with the new format, going to have to figure it out.
Thinking the RIOT would be the same frame same setup I proceeded to mount my new Riot on my KTM 500 as per the ARO.
1. something is different. To accomplish what we did last spring to the ARO, I had to slide out my.........call it a swingarm cast aluminum block. I put it in my mill ( could be done with a die grinder ) and
2. milled off the end of the block about 3/16 of an inch ,so the ends of the swingarm on either side of the adjuster bolt, removed the adjuster bolt lock nut, machined the hole surface on the inside where the adjuster bolt comes out so I had a flat surface there and put the lock nut on the inside of the swing arm.
3, elongated the 4 holes the long pinch bolts go through the frame .150 of an inch.
4. took a cut on the underside of the swing arm left side where the chain wants to
rub to give some extra chain room.
5. machined the swing arms sides back about .200 just ahead of the forward pinch bolt so the swing arm slides deeper into the Riot frame.
6. All this work so the swing are slide deeper into the Riot frame. Last year in the spring I put on a new DID low friction o ring chain and was impressed with the easier rolling so I used that chain with 15 tooth on the bike and 18 on the kit, removed the plastic shoe that came on the swing arm.
7. Note in the picture the heim joint on the solid strut just touches the long pinch bolt, note the distance between the adjuster bolt and the frame it pushes against. I should have taken pictures of stock them after modification to compare.....my bad.
Compare that to your stock Riot.
8 . When bolted together chain clears swing arm bolt on the bottom by about .200 and clears the top side by a mile and no rub block, just like the rear wheel on your bike it should be.
I also included picture of the fat top idler wheels after I narrowed them up and picture of the top idler wheels I ran when I put the aro suspension in my older TS frame. I was going to use the aluminum idler wheels in my riot, but they are bigger diameter that stock fatty wheels which worked great in my mods the last couple of years, I need to try the RIOT suspension and see if it has ratcheting issues before I go changing wheels sized.
I note about adjusting your track, side to side adjustment needs to be done to center up the rear wheels between the lugs and however the tracks looks is ok, the riot has nice skinny wheels in the back to I see no issues with the rear wheels, which I narrowed on the kits and sleds.
Anyway for now we shall see. my first shot I down loading pictures with the new format, going to have to figure it out.
