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Mds weights worth it on the alpha?

Vern

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First off, yes I searched, but there's really not alot of info regarding mds on the '18+ bearing clutch. A few guys say they're great and others say stock is just as good. My brother has a '14 162" stock with just mds clutching and it runs really good. It'll run side by side with my '20 165" and would pull away from my '14 153" with jaws pipe that I "thought" ran good. Just wondering if I could expect similar improvement in performance on the alpha with mds to what he gained on his '14. Oh yeah, we ride 6-9k, spending most time around 8k.
 

Frostbite

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Good question! I will be watching for an answer as well. I have them on my 2015 and as you said they make a huge difference on the Suzuki engines.
 

ndfb35

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In my opinion they do. I had them on my 18 and people who rode it thought I had modded it with more than just the weights and can.
 

bgraff1

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i love my MDS weights. every sled should have adjustable weights IMO and why buy a set that is the same profile as stock. the engagement and pull of the MDS is great. Steve claims 8HP at the track increase with the MDS weights
 

Vern

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Thanks for the responses so far. So it still seems to be a bit of a split field so far. Hopefully more with first hand experience on the ctec will chime in. I'm just coming out of break in on my '20 so should probably run stock for a bit to get a good feel for it. 8hp to the track for ~$250 is not to bad if it's accurate.
 

bgraff1

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id honestly just call steve and talk to him. hes a wicked guy who designs and tests all his stuff. i phoned him and he was very helpful, got me what i needed and talked my ear off. had no issues BS'ing about sledding for 45min. his customer service is second to none 100%
 
G
Nov 24, 2008
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Following as well...90% of my riding is in the prairies around 1500 feet but I do the odd mountain trip (mostly ~7500 feet) but possibly also to somewhere like cooke city (~10k+?). Wondering if there is a single set of adjustable weights that will have enough adjustability to work ok in this large elevation range. Have always heard great things about MDS on the suzuki 800's
 

boondocker97

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Following as well...90% of my riding is in the prairies around 1500 feet but I do the odd mountain trip (mostly ~7500 feet) but possibly also to somewhere like cooke city (~10k+?). Wondering if there is a single set of adjustable weights that will have enough adjustability to work ok in this large elevation range. Have always heard great things about MDS on the suzuki 800's

I'm running MDS weights in a 2018 roller clutch on my big bore Suzuki. I normally leave my clutching setup for 9000'+ (Cooke) and last season got to ride sea level in AK. Weights had enough adjustment to cover that. With the bolts being held in with red loctite and needing to heat them to remove the screws, and not enough wrench clearance to remove the big head bolts I used at low elevation I always take the weights all the way out to make adjustments. So I wouldn't say they are quickly adjustable. Only drawback I've noticed.
 
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Shwinecat

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I second the customer service with MDS. I called Steve several times on the clutching on my 2 2015s. Steve took time out of his busy schedule to help me through process of elimination to figure one clutch was bad from new. I spend a lot of time dialing in my clutches. Several people have accused me of motor mods and it is all clutching.

I will add my 2020 Hardcore with the roller bearing should take clutching for most to the next level.

I live at 1800 ft elevation. My mountain riding is 8500 to 10,000. I am still shocked at how many people I meet that never change weights from my home elevation to mountain elevation?? or have never had a primary clutch off their machine.
 

Chewy22

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Do you have to remove the clutch cover to adjust the MDS weights?

I would recommend doing it that way. Remove cover and belt. If you like playing with mouse traps you could pry and jam it open, after removing the belt. Don’t need to remove the weight.
 

dw8

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I pop the cover to change my MDS weights. I bought 3 bolts that are 1/2” longer than the cover mounting bolts. I pull 3 out and thread the long ones in. Then slowly back off the remaining 3 evenly. By the time they come out, the long bolts hold the tension. I can then push the cover in by hand a little and unthread the long bolts. Boom, cover off and it can be done on the trail
 

Vern

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Well, just bit the bullet and called Steve and ordered up some clutching. He is definitely a friendly fella. He persuaded me into a 45° helix as well, which I thought was interesting as I haven't read much on people changing helix's at my elevation of 6-9k. Most talk of helix changes seems to be for 9k+, but I figure with his reputation i'd follow his suggestions.
 

CB.8

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Well, just bit the bullet and called Steve and ordered up some clutching. He is definitely a friendly fella. He persuaded me into a 45° helix as well, which I thought was interesting as I haven't read much on people changing helix's at my elevation of 6-9k. Most talk of helix changes seems to be for 9k+, but I figure with his reputation i'd follow his suggestions.

I have his clutching on my 20. We ride 5-6k. I too bought the 45 helix. It is spot on!
 
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