M8000 run great then dies..!?

[razed1022]

I'm in the same boat. Except mine will let me get off the trailer and down to the first bowl then same thing dies like I hit the kill switch then starts after 5 mins goes ten feet then shuts down again. I took it to a very reputable center they spent many hours testing and even mountain tested it. They tested everything tss, my fuel controller, injector, stator checked out fine. Spent about 8-10 hours messing with it . And called me that there next step would be to replace the wiring harness and then if that didn't work they'd replace the stator just to be sure because sometimes it could test good but still be on its way out. I have it in my garage now and am going to do the harness myself. Then the stator if need be. But they are pretty confident that its the wiring harness.

 

[North]

Chasing issues on my '17 MC. Runs great when it runs but has a major issue every 5 rides or so.

So far in ~15 rides this season the sled has:
- Died mid hillclimb. It flooded itself out due to a stuck injector. Cycled the injectors with a 9V and haven't had (major) flooding issues since.
- ~2mi into a trail ride in started dropping RPM and eventually died after 30s or so. Seemed like it ran out of fuel. Had spark. Had fuel in the line. Tried to cycle injectors but didn't hear any clicks. Put it back together and it started right up and ran all day.
- 2x it was a PITA (or impossible) to start on a cold morning. Both times a weak burble 2nd pull than nothing. 2nd time I was able to get it going after about 30+ wide open pulls. Seems like it does the heat soak flooding thing occasionally while out riding too.
- Most recently it started 2nd pull, warmed up, and died (fast like I'd been killswitched) ~1/8th of a mile from the truck. Got it started again 1x then nothing. Pulled the fuel line - had fuel. Didn't have time to tinker so towed it out. Next day it started 2nd pull again.

4/5 of the no-start or dying issues were on or after deep powder day rides. Don't have a garage so my sled doesn't get to dry out after each ride.

Minor Issues:
- Sometimes gets stuck in reverse (on or after riding powder days). Restart fixes this.
- 1x my gauge quit randomly on the trail ride in. Restarted and hasn't happened again.

TSS is unplugged. It has a Pro Design Tether. Other than the stuck injector I've never had fuel coming out of the case when pulling plugs, so I'm leaning towards electrical issues. I've checked all connectors under the exhaust heat shield, fuel pump connector, and hood connector. Haven't found any chafed wires. Current ideas are to seal up some panel gaps (all stock right now) add dielectric grease to all electrical connectors, test the exhaust temp sensor and tether and check resistance values at the stator.

Anything else I should be doing? Sled blows my old M out of the water but has not had anywhere near the reliability.

 

[boondocker97]

Test the stator and check the wires where they go behind the chain case. And are tied to the upper frame spar.

Not How I Wanted to Start Pre-Season Maintenance

Heat, impact driver, broken torx bits...time to quit messing around! Had to dig two of them out this way. No corrosion, no loctite, and installed with a 1/4" ratchet. Going to go back with the torx plus bolts from ZRP along with the 1/2lb lighter roller spider (replaces steel with aluminum)...

www.snowest.com

 

[sno*jet]

these sleds like to dry out fully in between rides. i think its something to do with the clear tube coming out of the computer. getting moisture inside, freezing, thawing, messing with the ecu.

 

[North]

these sleds like to dry out fully in between rides. i think its something to do with the clear tube coming out of the computer. getting moisture inside, freezing, thawing, messing with the ecu.

If that's the fix I'm gonna have to get a different sled. Not possible for me to have dry storage during the winter any time soon.

 

[boondocker97]

Closing off the openings in the plastic limits the amount of snow that gets under the hood. Thus reducing moisture and greater chance of the sled drying itself out better from it's own underhood heat. I've siliconed any gaps where the belly pans meet the bulkhead and any open holes like where the front bumper attaches. Then frogzskin the long openings down the center of the hood and the big forward-facing holes in the side pannels. Still get some coming in the exhaust side panel from the rear, but much less overall. Zip ties semi-tight around the tie rod boots. Keeps snow and ice from building up in the center of the bulkhead where that ECU tube hangs down and the steering linkage is. All things guys used to talk about doing during the first few years the Proclimb came out.

 

[sno*jet]

possible theres a better spot to route the tube, idk, spend some time googling m8000 ecu breather tube, or something like that. but it does hang right down where snow will build up after deep days, will build up inside the tie rod boots. depending on your bumper setup those are pretty quick to pop open and clear out. LOL who wants to do that after a long cold deep day. I would get a nice thick cover on it right after you are done, that helps them thaw out. mines a freebee old M-series cover, works great. I swear up and down these sleds like nothing but the best non-e fuel as well. boondocker had good advice with the frogskins up front. I like the mountain fit side panel vents, especially the clutch side one where you get rid of all the stupid ducting which clogs with snow. I also installed a thumb screw on the exhuast side just like the clutch side has, theres already a hole for one, pulls the side panel tighter.

 

[North]

Update. Both of my ignition coils on the mag side have charred wires. What would've caused this? The stuck injector (first major issue with this sled) was also mag side. Grounds look good at least where visible. Should I be checking the voltage regulator? Stator tested good aside from the lighting coil, which was slightly out of spec.

 

[akdanno]

Go through every single plug on the sled, inspect the pins for corrosion, dry them out and pack them with dielectric grease. Peace of mind at a minimum, and costs nothing. But if you have burned wires, you have bigger programs. I would check every electrical component on the sled, there are a lot of people in these forums that have fried ECUs because stators and voltage regulators quit

 

[North]

Yep good call. Been greasing connectors as I test. I was using CRC contact cleaner too, but it swelled the gaskets on both the injector plugs and the main hood plug. Frustrating.

Wondering if I could've damaged the ignition coils when I was sorting out the injector issue. Had the plugs out and unplugged while I was pulling it over to clear the case. Pulled at least 100x. I assume the kill switch was engaged for most if not all of the pulls but not totally sure - hard to be systematic when fixing things on the side of a mountain in a snowstorm.

 

[North]

Update:

- Replaced the damaged ignition coils. There's minimal clearance between the mag side coil mounting bolt and the fuel tank. The factory routing puts the wire right at the bolt/tank gap. I actually pinched the wire between the bolt and the tank when reassembling. Fixed that. Think this is how my coils fried.
- Brake switch wire tested ok but it was poorly routed and was being pinched by the lever. Rerouted.
- Lighting coil resistance was high when testing the stator hot too. Manual says it's part of the APV circuit. Think I would've noticed if power valves weren't opening. Sled rips when running.
- VR AC side tested within spec at idle, but noticed a voltage drop and dimming hand control bulbs when revved. For VR DC Manual says to unplug 3 wire connector and test voltage VR side at idle - my VR only has a 3 wire plug so not connected to sled at all if unplugged. 12V plug voltage tested ok at idle and didn't change while revving - not sure if that's a valid test.

So is the bad lighting coil + AC voltage drop to accessories under load enough reason to replace the stator? Other stator coils test fine. For a bad VR I would expect to see an over voltage condition.

 

[greenmtnboys]

There is a main plug between your motor and fuel tank that can cause issues.It is easily accessed by pulling your fuel tank and seat. The alignment of the plug is almost like a cup to catch water in the plug so it is a good idea to clean and grease it and then give it a couple of wraps of electrical tape to keep it sealed.This will prevent future problems.

 

[North]

There is a main plug between your motor and fuel tank that can cause issues.It is easily accessed by pulling your fuel tank and seat. The alignment of the plug is almost like a cup to catch water in the plug so it is a good idea to clean and grease it and then give it a couple of wraps of electrical tape to keep it sealed.This will prevent future problems.

Good tip. Every connection on the sled is greased now. Still having some issues. 4 rides since the teardown. Most recently got it out of the truck and ran it up the road to warm up. Randomly died like it'd been kill switched (again) but started right up immediately and ran (mostly) great all day.

Possibly unrelated but it still has an issue where if I park it hot (after letting it idle down) for a bit, say 15+ min it will start right up but idle down, and bog/die when giving it throttle. Most times it will start again with some combination of 5+ pulls, or starting it with fully pinned throttle. Sometimes it won't. In that case I've gotten it started by pulling a plug wire, and inserting a spare plug to test spark. It will often start on 3 plugs (while I'm testing spark on the spare) 1st or second pull when I do this. When it's running again I have to stab throttle above 5000rpm to clear the bog and it will run. Almost like a minor flood. This issue improved when I put in a fresh belt. Sled would idle around 1800rpm vs 1600rpm on the old belt and no heat soak start issues. Had some squealing and made a minor deflection adjustment, idle rpm around 1700 now. Heat soak issue is better than old belt but not as good as when belt was tight enough to squeal.

Replacement voltage regulator arrived so I'll try that next. If that doesn't work it's stator, then will check reeds (have scoped already, will remove and inspect next). Nightmare of a sled that has me ready to buy a Doo.

 

[North]

Update. Found two badly chafed wires (for MAG side fuel injector) when I was swapping the voltage regulator. Wiring loom was not long enough to protect the wiring in that spot. Hopefully this will solve my issue of the sled randomly dying. Still has the hot start issue.

 

[spoon]

Update. Found two badly chafed wires (for MAG side fuel injector) when I was swapping the voltage regulator. Wiring loom was not long enough to protect the wiring in that spot. Hopefully this will solve my issue of the sled randomly dying. Still has the hot start issue.

I put heat insulation on my fuel line above the pipe between tank and first spar clip and it seems to help with the hot restart issue on both my 13 and 16 Proclimbs. Did it to my M1000 swapped 18 as well and that sled with all the extra motor/pipe/power has never had a hot start problem. Still has same stator and wiring harness as an 800 just different ECU. Link to product I used.

Heat Shroud™ - 0.75" x 36"

Heat Shroud is a high temperature rated line sleeve with a hook & loop closure design for easy installation to provide heat protection your wires, cables and hoses.

www.designengineering.com

 

[North]

I put heat insulation on my fuel line above the pipe between tank and first spar clip and it seems to help with the hot restart issue on both my 13 and 16 Proclimbs.

Cool that's good info. Thanks for linking the product. Relocating or wrapping the fuel line is consistent with the conclusions in this thread:

electrical gremlin

I noticed the part numbers the same. I ordered one too. The fact that they look different from the stock ones means there's a chance! Makes a little bit of sense considering this issue gets worse with time. Might be wearing that little white plastic plate/bladder out.

www.snowest.com

Sounds like it could be also be the regulator or plug to the fuel pump. I ordered a kit from Quantum that includes those pieces. Pretty cheap. Sounds like I should plan on doing something with the fuel line too.