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Lower Max RPM to be expected during break in?

hamlin

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On my ‘20 it would compress out of round and contact the spider had some paint rubbed off the outside of the coils where it touched.
My wife’s didn’t contact the spider but had exact same symptoms as mine so swapped it and problem gone. Hers did exact same as you describe wouldn’t climb above 7400. Mine would climb above 7400 briefly then settle at about 73-7400 on a climb as the clutch shifted out.
Judging by how you explained it, I think it’s worth a shot. Having 78s in there shouldn’t drop your r’s that much
 

nater24

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I'm about halfway through the break in on the Matryx Slash 850 - but doing some short 3 second WOT pulls, the sled didnt feel as strong as my old 800. Looked at the RPM and it was maxing at 7400 or so on trail. Is this to be expected with the additional fueling/oiling caused by the ECU? I pulled over and checked deflection, that wasnt the issue. Going to check throttle cable today when I go through everything - anything else I should look into?
Were you able to go for a ride with different clutch weights? I took my Matryx Slash 850 out at about 10k feet yesterday for the first ride and it's doing the same thing. Everything is totally stock. I wondered if the weights were too heavy. I set deflection and checked the clutches and primary spring and everything looks fine.

When you checked your throttle cable did you find that it was set right? I looked at mine just with the side cover off (on the clutch) and can see the throttle pulley moving but can't tell where it's supposed to stop.
 
T
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Were you able to go for a ride with different clutch weights? I took my Matryx Slash 850 out at about 10k feet yesterday for the first ride and it's doing the same thing. Everything is totally stock. I wondered if the weights were too heavy. I set deflection and checked the clutches and primary spring and everything looks fine.

When you checked your throttle cable did you find that it was set right? I looked at mine just with the side cover off (on the clutch) and can see the throttle pulley moving but can't tell where it's supposed to stop.

Yes, I took it back out yesterday. Put 64's in (since I dont have any 66's lying around) and got the off trail RPM up to 8100-8150 and the on trail RPM up to 7950 or so at 10-11k feet. Completely different sled.

I just tested the throttle cable by gently pulling at idle and it is as tight as it can be, any tighter would cause issues should the block get any significant snow build up.
 

nater24

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Yes, I took it back out yesterday. Put 64's in (since I dont have any 66's lying around) and got the off trail RPM up to 8100-8150 and the on trail RPM up to 7950 or so at 10-11k feet. Completely different sled.

I just tested the throttle cable by gently pulling at idle and it is as tight as it can be, any tighter would cause issues should the block get any significant snow build up.
That's great to hear. I'm going to do the same with the weights. On the Axys chassis (I'm sure it's the same on the Matryx) when you adjust the cable up on the bar at the flipper that's mainly adjusting the engagement of the throttle. I had done that a few years ago and went a little to far and it started to depress the Throttle saftey switch on the back of the flipper which shuts the sled down automatically. You can have the cable adjusted properly up on the bar and still not have it pull the cable far enough at the throttle bodies to actually open them up WOT. The adjustment that I was referring to is this one which is down on the pulley that attaches to the throttle body. Looks like one would have to take a lot of things off Matryx sled to get to it in order to see if it needs to be adjusted.

Curious if anyone else has had an issue like this and if they have looked at that adjustment down at the end of the throttle cable.
 

Sheetmetalfab

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That's great to hear. I'm going to do the same with the weights. On the Axys chassis (I'm sure it's the same on the Matryx) when you adjust the cable up on the bar at the flipper that's mainly adjusting the engagement of the throttle. I had done that a few years ago and went a little to far and it started to depress the Throttle saftey switch on the back of the flipper which shuts the sled down automatically. You can have the cable adjusted properly up on the bar and still not have it pull the cable far enough at the throttle bodies to actually open them up WOT. The adjustment that I was referring to is this one which is down on the pulley that attaches to the throttle body. Looks like one would have to take a lot of things off the sled to get to it in order to just see if it needs to be adjusted.

Curious if anyone else has had an issue like this and if they have looked at that adjustment down at the end of the throttle body.
There’s zero difference between the two adjustments on the axys. (They both change effective cable housing length)

There’s only the adjustment under the hood available on the matryx. (No adjuster by the bars)

On both sleds the throttle safety switch should be bypassed and just run / use the tether.
 
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nater24

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This is where you adjust your cable slack.
After a conversation with TRS last night I found the adjuster. You have to the take side panel off on the exhaust side. It's up near the top of the over structure and in line with it. The little rubber boot that covers it is one piece and you can slide it up out of the way. The jam nut is a 10mm and the adjuster is an 8mm (took me several attempts to figure that out). Also, TRS instructed to NOT touch the adjustment down on the pulley so I stand corrected from my last comment on that. I was able to adjust my cable on the upper adjuster so now when the flipper is all the way to the bar it hits the the "Stop" down on the Pulley and makes an audible "thump". This should insure that you're getting absolutely full WOT.

THANKS TRS FOR THE INSTRUCTION. Ordered his clutch kit for this Matryx as my first upgrade since I've had his clutching set up on my prior sled and was super happy with it. My last sled was an Axys 800 with a high boost turbo. Clutch Heat and subsequent belt explosion was a problem. I've run the Razor Back Belt temp gauge for several years now which uses an inferred laser that gives a consistent real time actual belt temp while you ride. I noticed about a 30% drop in belt temps once I got his clutch kit and the Spider and secondary aligned properly. TRS is the Man!!
 
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