Looking for Knowledgeable Help on Rebuilding '12 600 Etec

Feb 24, 2016
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At the end of last season my sons '12 600 etec XP got to where it wouldn't start. And when it did it sounded like it was running on one cylinder. When revved it seem to run fine and didn't seem to be low on power it was really hard for me to gauge. I've checked spark and fuel and I'm convinced that's all good. I ordered a compression tester because I'm pretty convinced at least one cylinder is way down on compression.

Anyway, long story short... I'm expecting to have to replace cylinders/pistons. I'm looking for someone to ask questions of along the way to prevent me from doing anything stupid. For example, I think there's a certain way of removing the Rave valves to prevent the need for a Buds run afterwards.

Any member here willing to help out? I'll sweeten the deal with a pizza delivery or something. LOL
 
Oct 8, 2009
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What do you want to know? I have a turbo 600 sdi that I have built 3 to 4x. They are similar but different motors. However, once the head is off, it is just a motor with bolts. The big difference is your injector is in the head, mine is in the cylinder intake runner. And, the etec is a mono block, mine has individual cylinders.

If it has fuel, spark and air, it has to be compression. I had a similar issue one season where I could not ride it often and pulled in snow through the turbo on one ride. I did not let it run at the end of the ride to make sure all water was out of the motor. Everything was fine except the piston rings rusted just enough to loose compression after running for a few minutes when I tried to ride it 2 months later. Learned that lesson, never happened again.
 
Last edited:
Feb 24, 2016
189
129
43
WA
What do you want to know? I have a turbo 600 sdi that I have built 3 to 4x. They are similar but different motors. However, once the head is off, it is just a motor with bolts. The big difference is your injector is in the head, mine is in the cylinder intake runner. And, the etec is a mono block, mine has individual cylinders.

If it has fuel, spark and air, it has to be compression. I had a similar issue one season where I could not ride it often and pulled in snow through the turbo on one ride. I did not let it run at the end of the ride to make sure all water was out of the motor. Everything was fine except the piston rings rusted just enough to loose compression after running for a few minutes when I tried to ride it 2 months later. Learned that lesson, never happened again.

Well, I don't know what I want to know yet. I'm doing some final clean up construction on the garage and then I plan to start tearing into it. Probably something like the second week of September.

Do you have any recommended sources for a top end kit? Block, pistons and gaskets?
 
Oct 8, 2009
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Honestly, the top end kits are all pretty similar. If you prefer to stay with the manufacturer, do that. But, if you don't really care to go with doo, then get a piston with a double ring pack. The set I have always used with success on my 600 turbo is the spi t-moly double ring pistons. Don't put in a forged piston unless you know how to set the correct cylinder bore tolerance...stay cast with a cast piston. Gap the top ring at 13 to 14 thousandths of an inch. Add 1 to 2 thousandths to the bottom ring gap to prevent ring flutter. Bottom ring set to 14 to 15 thousandths. If you're turboed, add the extra thou or so to both ring gaps. If you have a cylinder that is too loose to get those gaps, try other ring packs, or set the tolerance for each set equal according to the one that is the looser of the two top rings.
 
Oct 8, 2009
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Well, I don't know what I want to know yet. I'm doing some final clean up construction on the garage and then I plan to start tearing into it. Probably something like the second week of September.

Do you have any recommended sources for a top end kit? Block, pistons and gaskets?
For block, you have to use skidoo cylinders. You can exchange cylinders with the dealer (skidoo) or call up someone like millennium who nikasils them. If it is common, they can exchange; otherwise, you can send them to millennium technologies. If you send them in to millennium, send the pistons and ring packs with the cylinders and ask millennium to spec the bores to the pistons and rings.

As far as gasket, look at the number of holes in the base gasket. That count represents a thickness for your model and year. Order the same base gasket from a dealer and new exhaust port gaskets. The rest should be reusable.
 
Feb 24, 2016
189
129
43
WA
Honestly, the top end kits are all pretty similar. If you prefer to stay with the manufacturer, do that. But...
For block, you have to use skidoo cylinders. You can exchange cylinders with the dealer (skidoo) or call up someone like millennium ...

I finally got around to working on the sled. You know... had to finish all the honey doo's first. Anyway compression was almost not existent on the mag side. Tore it down and found this. Seems like a pretty common failure from what I've read.

xpturbo600... thanks for all the great info! I'm on the Google search for piston and cylinder options now per your recommendations. IMG_4301.jpg IMG_4300.jpg
 
Oct 8, 2009
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Is that the exhaust port side? If so, check to make sure the rave valves are clean and free from scaring. It looks like the ring broke, leading to the scaring as it came apart.

Or, is the scaring on the intake side?

Take a photo of the cylinders.
 
Oct 8, 2009
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I finally got around to working on the sled. You know... had to finish all the honey doo's first. Anyway compression was almost not existent on the mag side. Tore it down and found this. Seems like a pretty common failure from what I've read.

xpturbo600... thanks for all the great info! I'm on the Google search for piston and cylinder options now per your recommendations. View attachment 357643 View attachment 357644
That also may be from the set pin coming loose and coming out of the piston ringland. 800 etec sleds had that issue when they were first released.
 
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